Capone

HEY! FREE ROCKETPIPES!

Story: I drive a 94 honda accord, burns oil, dented up, its a piece of shit, but I don't mind it because it gets me from a-b and I save a ton of money driving it. Well, recently the oil burning has gotten worse so I know its going to take a shit so I been looking at cars, waiting for a decent deal. Today I'm putting in glass at a body shop and across the street see a Red Dodge Ram, single cab, short bed with the hemi (lol)... its spotless, hardly even scratches in the bed. reference pic - exact truck So I call the dealership and they say its got 38k miles on it, every option on the inside including the infinity stereo yadda yadda, except leather, and they want $14,300 for it, plus tax title etc... so that right there is a decent deal. I tell him I'll give him a call back. about 3 hours go buy I call and offer cash tomorrow (Saturday) if he can shoot me the right price. so he tells me $14,300 out the door, tax, title etc included. I'll be getting the truck for $13,350. Its got a 7yr 70k mile warranty thats up in 2010 or 31k miles. I like the truck, anyone got any advice? Should I buy? (also, its a 2wd, but its fine with me).

I got mine on ebay for about 50$ might want to check there.

Well since no one has addressed this yet, you said you're @ almost 4000' elevation, thats perfect on for your compression. Since you're located so high above sea level, don't be scared to take your domes smaller. It isn't the dome size that makes you have to run race fuel, its the compression. And even at an 18cc dome your only at ~165lbs of compression at your elevation. 165 was always my mark for using a higher octane fuel. Throw a smaller dome in your head, 18 or 19cc. What they're talking about with the solder is the stuff that comes on a roll, use the thicker material, and unroll it about 6-7 inches but leave attached to the roll... stick this down in your spark plug hole and kick the bike over, pull the solder out and measure its thickness on smallest smashed area. This is your squish. Since you're saying you need your domes cut, I take it you're not running a spacer plate? Why don't you give dave a call and actually talk to him, alot of the builders on this site are pretty busy to check their messages and emails daily. As for me... I'd suggest smaller(19cc) domes, and advance your timing +4 with an ajustable timing plate, use either full or a mix of race fuel afterwards. I definately think you'll like the turnout. Hope this helped a little.

Keep in mind cars also have heavy duty springs rapped around the shock..

No inserts needed, must be professionally polished, or simple touch up to bring back the professional polish. Please send pictures to my PM or admin@cxpone.net, Thanks, JD.

How about you keep the cascade inserts and just sell me the polished cover Pm me Edit: Just realize its an old thread... but if you still got it let me know

You have a pm, smk flint, thanks I'll let ya know if I need them.

Upper + Lower, No welds, Epoxy, nothing, must be very clean. PM me or drop me an email @ admin@cxpone.net, thanks.

so if you're working the side of a steep hill the lockup isn't hard to work with? I mean it's not all or nothing on the clutch?

I ordered the bike clutch for my banshee from Passion Racing, pancake bearing, hd springs.. etc, everything to beef the clutch up. What all do you use with a lockup? I just found out when I shipped my motor they dropped in and broke the clutch cover, and bottom case, so a new clutch cover is 200$ I can get a lockup for 379, since my bike is pretty much dune/drag only. How would a lockup do on a hillclimb? Thanks, JD

Sorry for the rookie question, but honestly I've never known... Whats the Stock handle bar size for a banshee? :beer:

They had TORS in '89? =x

If wiseco's 'nade its not the pistons fault its the builders.

Its for 35mm pwk's

If anyone knows where to get these rubber boots, (I don't know the type of intake but the boots are made by mikuni, they look like the same boots as most intakes out there. Where can I get... quickly? thx in advance.

Future refrence: http://www.bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?...c=49835&hl= Thanks Brad!

Does anyone have an article about this... and/or a leakdown test kit? I want to eliminate this possibility asap, thanks - JD

I'd suggest yamabond, just because thats the factory spec, i'm sure most here will agree.

Need some of you guys to participate in a poll. I'm thinking about investing in a .com, its mainly about frauds & scams online, some offline. Have you ever opened an email, or visited a website and you wondered if it was real or a scam? If so, Would a site that you could look to see if its a scam, or ask a professional, if it was legit or not be helpful? It would also have minute to minute updates on the newest identity theft, and money theft scams on the web. How useful would this site be to any of you? (Given most of you guys can spot a scam pretty easily)

I was wondering if anyone had pics as to how this thing went on.. because I'm having some problems. If I looks like the stock one, as far as the sprocket being right next to the carrier, then it won't let it go on, unless its supposed to be rubber mallet'd on... any help would be appreciated.

dont mind them, stick to your price. People try to pay crackhead prices on here.

If you're mad cause I said not to lowball, I don't want your money anyway. I was only going to sell it cause I was pissed off. Thx for helping me decide to keep it, btw... I'll be sure to pop in on your forsale threads for now on with a low ball offer, or a link to one on ebay for less than what your asking. :yankyank:

Don't like the prices don't buy it. Stay out of my thread if you're just going to complain about the prices. Save your time.

I got a +4 Chrome from wild west welding, awesome swing arm, check out the forsale thread under my name.