sheerider11

Sounds lean.

This^ My father is a machinist and gets all his tools from travers. It's not cheap at all.

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HP is useless if you have no control. I bet a blaster with great suspension/setup and a crap motor can pass the fastest bike with stock shocks and a janky setup.

Do not do this. It does not work better. A leakdown tester works better. If you see "crank oil" on the stator cover you have bigger issues. Also take pics. That'd be a new one for me

A arm bushings, hub bearings, carrier bearings, swing arm bearings, shit like that. This is all shit you need to check. The motor runs fine right? I wouldn't fuck with it. Chassis first then motor.

Good a arms Good swing arm Good shocks all around Tight bushings Tight tie rod ends Good bearings The shit that gets over looked. Like the rear shock hiem bearing things, the linkage bushings, swing arm bearings, stem bearing and seals, brakes not frozen, good rotors, and what ever else you can find. I see so many bikes that people have never serviced these parts. I try to make it yearly to change out these parts. If I have to think back to when I might have done it and can't remember then it's about time. It gets expensive the first time to do everything but once done you'll see what last and what doesn't. Then you can figure out service intervals for stuff.

What?

Have sand stars on my girls bike. Mine as well. There good. Not great. They get the job done. I run hipers so I think my rear weights about the same. I notice no issues. I live in jersey. There are no dunes.

This was my best. Avg 18. So no dreamometer. Real life shit. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

It's common when you ground the coil directly. If you have the one side of the tether to the Orange on the coil you get shocked.

Yeah super happy with it. I'm averaging about 18mpg right now. So it's not half bad. I wish I would've done this from the start

I'm a fan of retro and all. But not that. And not that ugly ass leather tank cover.

I will not ride with you if you run those

I could've swore this guy did this a year or so ago

Are the jersey sand pits not good enough for you?

im not a drag racer at all. But those foot pegs look super far forward compared to the seat. is this the preferred drag racing seat/foot peg position? look like a recliner type position. or was this just the jockey preference?

3000 as is. When my tax return come. And wanna go halves on shipping?

I have some new and used drag - TT-FT tires. priced per pair shipped to the East Coast ,anyone west of the central time zone add $20 New 20-10.5-10 Hoosier slicks $195 New 22-11-10 treaded Hoosiers $210 new 18-8-10 American racers $175 used 19-10-10 American Racers 90-95% $145 used 18-8-10 Hoosiers 85-90% $120 used 18-10-10 Hoosier Tri Tracks 85-90% $135 also have a set of barely used 22-10-10 Maxxis 4-snows on oem YFZ wheels $150.00 shipped.

Ha! That made me laugh.

you don't listen do you? 310 sounds lean. Who ported it? Or did you not listen again and use the spacer plate?

Tors or parking brake. But if he called you and you came here asking what to do, your not qualified to take on the job either.

The same one. Don't change it.

I'm siting here looking at the second to last pic. is a oem kick start going to work? Maybe the pic makes it look like its in to far.

Start. Listen for odd noises. After a good 5 min warm up. Ride like normal. All this break in stuff and heat cycles and 1/4,1/2 throttle, left turns only, and what ever else you hear is silly. Nothing seats rings better then a good load on the engine. Run the same ratio all the time. Why change shit up? I've never seen a shop do all these things to an engine before they put it on a dyno. But what do they know.