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Open it up for more flow :biggrin:

I'm running stock carbs for now and am going to 33's soon. You won't need a spacer.

If yours are V-Force 3's, the center section will come out. I removed mind and put a set of stuffers on and it opens them up. Looks like the plate you have won't fit inside due to that bar that goes across the reed body. I would have to look at mine to be sure. Here is a link for the stuffers so you can see how they come out. http://cascadeinnovations.net/ Go to Banshee performance, look for reeds, and click on V-force 3

I have a full set of the comps on the drag bike. Got them off e-bay for around 100.00 cheeper that anywhere else I looked. For duning, I would go with the coilovers for sure. Plush ride and you won't get beat to death on the whoops! If I can find the guys info, I will post it on here. I just looked and could not find anything. There are a few sets for sale on e-bay for sale

I have one and so far I like it. Like said it does move the carbs back and kicks the angle up a bit. Also gets rid of the crossover tube. Plus they look cool :thumbsup:

Thanks, the Stator works. Haven't got to ride yet but so far, it's good. Started on first kick.

Well said locogato, I had a dune port done around a year ago. The first thing my builder did was true & weld the crank, bored .020 over. I was running FMF Gold Fattys with a +4 swinger and the dam thing had so much bottom end gearing was 13/41 (wheelie machine), I had to go to CPI in frames to keep the nose of the bike out of the air! With the CPI's the bottom end did fall off a bit but if you keep it reved up the low power is awsome! I can dump the clutch off the line and keep the front tires around a foot off the ground thru 4th gear.

I like SandLake it's like 45 min. away. Down South, it's Winchester hands down. Lot's of razorbacks and witch eyes. Watch your sound levels down there it's 93db and Sandlake is 95 or 96db. Have Fun!!!

Thanks again Jim0511

I'm in need of a stock stator for a Banshee. I have got 2 bad ones from Ricky Stator and given up on them. The thing is I need it by Feb. 9th for a planed ride we have setup (my Birthday ride) If anybody can help me out, PM here or e-mail [email protected] Thanks

Well I still have the same problem. The new stator pickup was gapped at .028 (should be around .018) and the bike just poped and did not start. Went to adjust the pickup and the scerws snaped :: Drilled them out, taped them, adjusted to .018 and nothing :verymad: I took the stator off the drag bike and installed it. Started on the first kick! I think at this point, I want a refund. I just hate to have to buy one from Yamaha for what they get for them. Anybody have a spair working stator lying around? The worst part of all this is that we have a 3 day ride (my birthday ride) planed for next weekend.

The top a-arms, the flater side of the a-arm should face forward. Look at the stock ones before taking then appart. I would think if the shocks don't lineup, something is wrong.

They exchanged it no questions asked. I did requset that they send it back unattached from the timing plate. They sent it back attached, oh well. Should be fireing up the bike this weekend and will see if it works

The first thing I did when mine was new was go with a set of FMF fattys with turbine 2 silencers, removed the air box and went with K&N pods, and removed the TORS setup and went with the idel screws mod. It made a big difference. Of course that lead to ported cyls, cool head, and boring out .020. and on, and on, and on...... :biggrin: to end up with this..... Then, I gave 300' drag racing a try. Bad idea, that lead to this.... Oh well, it's only money :thumbsup:

Update: I e-mailed RS and they said send it in and they will take care of it. I will let you all know what happens

I just bought a new one and had the same problem. The pickup was to close, I tried to adjust it and the screw head broke off. When I tried to thak the stator off the plate to put it on a Pro Desgin, I coulden't get the screws off. It took an impact driver to get 1 off so I gave up on the others. :verymad: I hope they will replace it and just send me the stator. I had to take the stator off the dune bike to fire up the drag bike for the first time :biggrin:

000 or 0000 steel wool and WD-40 :biggrin:

You can send them back to yarnell and they will refill them. My rear shock has 950psi in it. You will never ba able to do it unless you have the refill station that they sell, or rig up something with a big nitrogen bottle.

Got one. Bought a real nice billet one from Twister Crankshaft :thumbsup:

Do you have a rear break caliper? If so, how much?

Do you have replacement reeds for V-Force 2's

I have had both V-Force 2's and 3's. I like the 3's better, you can use your stock intake boots but you have to modifiy them. It's easy, just takes a little trimming. There is a big difference from the stock reeds. Cascade inovations Has V-force3 stuffers that open up the intake and give more flow. http://cascadeinnovations.net/ I just went to a one piece billet intake made by Boss and love it.

For a stock crank, true & weld is a must if your going to be doing upgrades (more power) to the motor.

You might check this out.... http://www.davemooreracing.com/trans_mods.php I havent heard to much on them good or bad. Like said before, they are pretty new. I just had a 2- 5 override done for my drag bike, can't wait to try it

When I had mine bored, I did 3 heat cycles took it easy for as long as I could stand it (about 1/2 hour) and then rode it hard. Never have had any problems.