blowit

AC/DC coils will usually use an internal rectifier to operate as DC. That is certainly an option but narrows the options a bit. No, AC and DC are different in an inductor coil application. Reasons have to do with the inductance of the AC current. Measuring the resistance of an AC and DC coil will return different values. In short, an AC coil will have a lower resistance and if operated with DC, will have a much reduced service life. If a DC coil is operated with AC, it may not operate correctly or flutter from the frequency oscillation. Remember that application voltage is typically estimated with RMS values but the full sine wave will arrive at the coil. B

Really not sure of the question but yes, the stator can support your valve without problem. I would not worry about the back voltage on this setup either. You will certainly want to select a normal open valve so if something goes south, you will have that brake. Your normal selections will be 12VDC, 24VDC, and 120VAC. I would probably select the 12VDC even though the stator could run a 24VDC unit and would need 1/2 the amperage. Due to the DC requirement, I personally would run a bridge rectifier. you do not need a ground, you need a neg reference and that is provided by the rectifier outputs. Do not use AC on a DC solenoid or vise versa. Inductance plays a role in how the coil is designed. You could certainly sweet talk one with the other voltage but not a beginner setup. You will be able to find a rectifier at radio shack for your needs. I really have no idea why you are killing the FR brake but in flattrack, I would use a proportion valve to tune things a bit so she falls in the corner a little easier. B

The link you posted was for LR pistons.... Grab them up. Seems like a no brainer. Don;t expect too much life out of them though.. B

Not sure what was wrong with the pistons in your linky, or the price. All seems reasonable to me. Those are forged pistons. WSM makes good pistons. Wiseco is not the only game, ever. They seem to be for Banshee people but everything else, they are middle of the road.. B

Certainly have more power left in the cylinders before you need to resort to piston mods. Just no sense in pulling ounces of power from piston mods when other aspects could be improved. I can tell you that exhaust is mild for drags... B

Without having the complete port map, port durations, CR, piston type, etc, it would be a guess at best. Just chopping off the bottom of the piston will not always equate to more power. I am still unsure what engine we are talking about. Every engine combination will have different needs so there is no blanket statement that applies to all motors. B

I would not recommend piston modding for beginners. This is typically only done by pros for drag bikes due to the piston life reduction. I would look for other ways to get more power. I have done ever piston mod there is and it can certainly help but knowing what you are doing is paramount. Guessing will likely end up in a broke piston, broke cylinder, etc. It gets expensive... B

Correct.. Boring the holes before having the pistons in hand is asking for a problem. Holding proper tolerance here will make a large difference in engine life... B

Uh, I think I missed that part.... Yeah, electrical problems don't lock the rear tires up... B

Replace the cushions. That radial backlash can damage the clutch fibers and cause excessive basket wear. The cushions are cheap. B

Electrical issue, that is for sure. The stator and CDI can both do this. I recommend getting the big to go into that condition, then resistance test the stator. Really sounds more like a CDI but I am not there. Grab the manual up top and do some testing when warm.

Better get a hold of the seller because you have an issue there and the original owner likely knows about it. Yes, they should match. B EDIT: OK, I got it, the original owner drag ported only one cylinder and woods ported the other so he could have the best of both worlds..damn, where are my smileys when I need them...

Yes, the gear was designed with torsion limits in mind and used materials accordingly. If you lock the bearing solid, the gear will shear before damaging the case. The plastic gear fails for many other reasons than a failing bearing though. They are known to fail just from fatigue as plastic becomes brittle with age. B

"[(0.7854*(bore^2)*stroke) + Head Displacement] / Head Displacement Bore = cylinder bore diameter (in centimeters) Stroke = stroke (in centimeters)" I am just a little confused. You indicate all linear measurements are in (cm), but the bore and stroke is typically measured in (mm), so does the equation account for this? Also, what are the units for volume? (cc)? Just trying to help clear that up. Typically an equation will be broke down with units attached in a situation like this. That might clear up any confusion. Also, you are calculating the UCCR or swept CR with this? B

How do you know when the rings on pistions are bad? low compression Rings can need replaced for many other reasons than low comp. I will do an article soon on that. Basically, wide ring end gap = a gap = blow by = local piston heating = dead piston. All while pumping up "stock" or "good" comp numbers. B

As mentioned in your previous thread, download the manual above or buy the book and read up on your engine. Most of your questions will be answered there as well. B

Personally, I would not touch a lockup with a 10ft pole for woods. If you can tear up a heavy clutch kit with 50HP, there is something wrong. I use the P P our of my clutches and never nuked one. I would recommend a heavy clutch with slightly stiffer springs. Woods gearing is different. Get the right gearing and it will help a bunch.

We did compare weight and IIRC the AL gear is about double the weight of the plastic one but we are talking a few ounces here and you would not lose any power over it. OK, maybe .001HP. The price to be paid if the plastic one breaks is a different matter... Thanks B

Not sure what "neopreem" is but the wheel that indexes on the shift star is hardened steel. IIRC, about 60HRC. B

Usually if the kicker does not work upon reinstallation, it is due to the assembly procedure. Remember there are two spring ends that have to be in the right place. The Torsion spring should need preloaded when installed or it will not return the kicker properly. Also make sure that plastic thing is in the right home and the groove in it goes around that spring end. There are expanded views of the kicker all over the net. They can be a pain but I doubt you have lost spring tension. Probably just something a little out of it's proper position. B

And not a single bit of punctuation...... Capitals in bad places, etc... You should trying reading that... B

In this situation, it is best to unclip the plug wires from the coil and test only the coil. If you still do not get anything from plug lead to plug lead, that is a problem. I will assume your have a decent meter. Please also note that the Clymer manual is wrong for secondary testing and probably the culprit for many unneeded col sales. The secondary tests from wire to wire. B

Don't worry about your top side clearance. You are probably looking at the wiseco pistons anyway which is not directly relative to the OE pistons. The big end is what controls the rod centering. As long as there is not excessive side clearance on the big end, you are fine. Good to ask though..... Many engine failures could be avoided with a few questions I think B

Honing a cylinder should not need port chamfering because you should remove less than .001 of material more or less to add cross hatching. I have, however, seen many virgin Banshee engines that had little to no chamfer. Boring should always be followed up with a proper chamfer. We do a 3 step process. The smoother than transition is, the long the rings and pistons will last. B

Port chamfering is your culprit. Good news is the damage on the bore will not affect running so you can smooth that area, chamfer your ports, and go. We take a lot of time chamfering ports here because it makes a huge difference in motor life. Make sure you get someone experienced to do this. radius, finish, blend, all makes a difference. I would suspect if you measure the ring land width on the exh side of the that piston, it will be deformed from pulling on the ring. woops, I did not see your piston pic. Question answered..... B