blowit

how did you clean the pilots? Did you adjust the air screws to no more than .5 turns out? You obviously are not getting fuel in the engine. As far as the spark issue. Reterminate means cut ends off, re........end them. High voltage leaks when there is a breach in the insulation.

Pilot jets, clean em. Also reterminate your plug caps.

Are you SURE the TORS are gone? That is the exact symptom of a mis-adjusted TORS system. Gotta have about 1/4" of of slack in the throttle, no more, no less. B

I have not run into that but looks like some minor mods (grinding) on the lockout will fix the problem. Obivously the locking ring cannot make contact with the pressure plate or you will have problems.

Again, it is very important not to associate pumping compression numbers with actual comp ratio. Pumping pressures can vary greatly depending on engine parameters and atmosphere.

Are you sure the tors are properly bypassed? It is very important that you sync your carbs without any idle set in or this could affect the way you perceive the balance of left and right.

Yeah, very hard to see in the pics but it looks like the bluing you are seeing is from the grinding of the rod end. If they do not deliver enough coolant or take too large of a bite with the grinder, you will get bluing at the surface. It sure looks like the crank should come out anyway to clean all that stuff out. That would be a better time for inspection. You need to think like a surgeon when working on it. It only takes one grain of sand to toast a crank.... I did not see where the crank looks to be separating but measuring will tell you.

Circlips coming out is very rare and usually due to improper installation. On the crank, you need to measure it to know what is going on. thrust washer clearance is key. grab a pic too. It is normal to see some discoloration in that area. That does not always mean the crank is done. You can also have it pressed back together, trued, and welded to stay together. B

I would second that. The stock pipes can be adapted to work rather well. My numbers show the 4mm motor would not work as good but would make some decent bottom end. For years, guys have been adding silencers to the stock pipes. You will not get drag race numbers but you will get good real world performance. B

To add to the confusion, in order to run precision bearings, you have to have a precision environment. Precision ground shafts, fits, etc. You will find bearings on cranks are not all that precise and if you tried installing an ABEC7 bearing on a crank, it would fail miserably because of the fit. Let say the ABEC7 can handle .0001-.0002" interference and you try to go on the shaft with .0005", you just reduced the bearing clearance and you probably know how well pistons do with reduced clearance. Bearings are the same deal... OMG, I can jaw more than I need to on bearings I guess...... B

The RPM level will be largely variant on the level of precision o the bearing. ABEC standards are one of about 4 classifications to rate a bearing's precision thus the rpm max. I will guess about an ABEC 3 on that one. Basically everything from concentricity, grind finish, etc all plays into how much heat a bearing creates at speed. The only killer of bearings is heat so basically RPM is dependent on heat. You will find there are many bearings that do not rate for what a crankshaft spins at. That is because the engine will obviously not stay at max rpm all day every day and that is what the rating implies. You also have to weigh in thinks like heat sinks, air flow, etc. All in all, you are rated for at least 7000 rpm in oil with an ABEC 3, you are likely fine.

The type of bearing you are looking at is called a "shielded bearing". They are typically used in sealed enclosers such as electric motors. The shields act to retain lubricant while the inner lip does not contact the inner race to reduce frictional heat. Shields are designed typically to be used with grease, not oils. I am not sure what to make of your single side shield unless for a specific application. Truth be told, the shield would probably work just fine but I would probably pop it out just so if anything makes it in the bearing, it has a better chance of leaving. You can also cross the numbers on the bearing back to the OEM for max speed recommendations. They are usually about 20% higher in oil than in grease due to the reduced drag coefficient. Mull Engineering

Parking brake switch is your problem. Just override it and problem solved. It is located on the clutch perch. Mull Engineering

I am honestly clueless on the market. We have made customs in the past but will admit that we would not have time for customs right now. If we setup to do them, I would need to check the market. Doubt we can react fast enough to get you covered on this round. Are all yours Aluminum or what? I would not mind taking a look at things. B

Does that mean someone needs to be making sprockets for you guys??? Already sponsored out a few for our local universities for the formula racing circuit. I would just hate having to make so many different sizes....

Sounds good. Get that comp reading and report back. After looking at the pics again, I agree with Jim, there does look like signs of detonation on the exhaust side of the piston and dome. The orings still look pinched and not fried, at least in the pics. That comp reading should sure shed some light on the situation. Remember to do it correctly though. Plenty of posts here on that. B

what coloration are you referring to? pics?

Never seen it but I have to admit, I have a thing for science and like to see good child oriented shows. It helps build the next generation of engineers. We had one I remember called "Bill Nie the science guy". Couple others too. Never really took until we got into college level physics in high school. We learned about acceleration by tying paper strips to the back of cars in the parking lot and hammering down. Teacher said "do NOT burn rubber". I said "ok", as I proceeded to smoke out the parking lot. All for science!!!! I learned if you smoke, you lose. A damn Toyoda accelerated faster! But I had more fun.. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hZi8TXtRRYg http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ghPSl3j0gE4&feature=related seriously, stop the gayness!!1

Terminal Velocity is a variable dependent on each objects mass relative to its surface area or wind drag CF. Certain things falling will fall faster than others dependent on their CF but all will eventually meet "Terminal Velocity" where the wind drag is equal to the gravitational force and they balance out. Obviously if there was no air, there would be no Terminal Velocity and every thing would continue to accelerate at 9.79m/s2 until it found the ground. Obviously a person in the air can change their CF by tucking, etc, thus change their terminal velocity with their own profile change. note also that we would use an approximation of 9.79m/s2 instead of 9.81 because the further you are away from the surface of the earth, the less gravity you will have. OK, that is probably more than you wanted to know....

Sounds like you are catching on!! Right on...

I am not sure if you will ever be accurate with that method. I would say if you were going to do something like this, you are better to get a degree wheel and mock up your engine. I really feel the mathematical way is the only way but many have built good engines with a degree wheel. That might be the best route for you.

Did you want fries with that?? JK, yeah, I will check back later. Back to work now...

So - do you like to "do it yourself"?? Sorry could not resist.

You are probably all loaded up and you are getting non-atomized fuel up in the head. Yes, caster coats things very well. Expect to see things a little gummier. I am betting you are fine. oring it and run it. A good idea to test comp and squish though. If you give the exhaust port height, that will help determine if your comp is where it should be. B

You should not need anything but a scientific calculator to get any number you need. Again, get in the Bell book, bust out the calcs in excel, and test your work. Should be able to do this in an evening. Not sure what the protractor would even be used for. Rod angle??