racer

When making your exhaust port wider, it must be no wider than ~65% of the width of your piston. Ring failures lie beyond that ratio.

Dude, I'm really confused. The idler gear is to the left of the clutch. The shifter goes in on the left side. What?

Tap water will cause mineral deposits in areas of your cooling system, bad idea. Use distilled if you must use water.

Wow, five years later. Uh, T-5's.

Sometimes stupid hurts.

Haha, probably. But it would be to spec!

Swivel and lock, for when you need to torque something.

Bear with me through this please: As an avid shooter and part time machinist I make and modify things. Long story short, I wonder if someone could mate a trigger pull gauge, hell for that matter a fisherman's weight gauge would work too, to an adapter and make a crude, yet VERY adjustable torque wrench. The formula for torque is: Tau = ®(F)sin(theta) Where r = length of arm F = force applied sin(theta) = the angle at which it is applied. For simplicity we will use T = r*F We can keep things at a right angle and ditch the trig. So slip an open end wrench into a fixture (read - tube with hole drilled across the thing) and measure the distance between the center of the wrench and center of the hole. Estimate the hole with a nut in it for closer measure. We'll assume it 22.8inches in length, or 1.9ft. That's our r. T = r*F > 20 = 1.9*F > 20/1.9 = F Therefore by exerting 10.53lbf on the assembly you have reached a 20lb-ft torque spec. Keynotes: 1) Force gauge must be at right angle to lever to achieve accurate measure 2) Lever must be horizontal and supported to remove any errors due to the acceleration of gravity. 3) Make sure your force gauge can handle the force you are using. If it won't you need a longer lever.

Translates into accelerated joint wear as well.

I made some for Honda 50's once. It works great for a topend, but no bottom stuff because of the horizontally separating cases. However, with vertical separation cases, this should work out real nice.

It's not a fuckin riddle. Gear 1 locks, and so does 6. Gears 2 & 3 make a terrible clicking noise, while the 4/5 stack runs normal. Kinda sounds like a misplaced or fubar'd shift fork or forks. We can probably thank this typing to text messaging and bad email etiquette.

Single point thread cutting is the primary process used on a manual lathe. You have ( you guessed it!) a tool with one 60* point, assuming basic machine threads. It's fed into and along the piece producing a thread of the desired pitch and diameter. The other way to cut a thread would be with a tap or die, and those have multiple points. I won't discuss thread forming here.

Post pics yo. A no link banshee isn't unheard of, but it is usually found in a drag racing only quad.

I doubt he will have that tap or die. It doesn't seem like a very popular pitch, other than in motorcycles of course. It will probably have to be single pointed. No big deal, especially for a CNC.

Well I have like 6,xxx posts. And I say .45 is better than 9mm. Aww FUCK, wrong forum......................

That pitch may be correct, but they are also reverse cut.

Need to change your crank for one. Then alter your cylinders and head.

Even the rear shock on a shee is a PITA. You have to cut out the factory seal head to remove a circlip. It adds about $50 to the total price IIRC.

Sell it, use the money for hookers and blow. Apply sarcasm as needed.

It's been done, but isn't advisable.

It's easy to setup, it's easy to pull, and offers power gains in mid size motors. The theory is that since the pistons are phased 180* from each other the carb will continuously and steadily flow.

I bet we're the only mother fuckers in here that remember this from the beginning! hahahaha

This is a fun thread. What about boonman? Seems like he had been here a while. J.J.; how the hell you been man?

second in line!

No, but I'm having cocktails for breakfast. Fratty enough? ha