richwuest

Lowering the gearing will help, but as mentioned will require you to shift more. For more low end power, I highly recomend the 2 into 1 carb. I like them so well that I have them on both mine and my wifes Banshee. Porting can also help with the low end, so long as the person who is doing the work knows what he is doing, and knows that you are looking mostly for low end and not top end. If it is ported with a race or drag port, you will end up with alot more top end, but may actually loose bottem end. And of course more displacement from a big bore or stroker will help bottom end, but the cost is high. Also, some have mentioned that Vforce reeds will help bottom end, but I dont think it will be nearly as much as the 2-1 carb.

You have PM

NADA and KBB don't mean all that much on Banshees. Just looking at the range between NADA and KBB prices can kind of tell you that. What the bike is worth depends quite a bit on what area you live in. In southern California, where I live, it is rare to see a Banshee of any year selling for less than $3K, unless it has problems. Sometimes one will pop up now and again for less, but in general, even old J arm bikes, if in proper working order still command 3 grand or a price very near that. You can often times buy a bike from here or off of Ebay for a low enough price to justify paying the $500-600 for shipping. It is just a bit of a gamble since you are purchasing it sight unseen.

A friend of mine went about 8 or 9 years on a stock crank (not even welded) with about 165psi and ported runing pump gas (dyno at 60 HP). It started running bad as the bearings began to get too much play in them, but the motor never grenaded. I have heard of others that did not last near that long though, so you just really never know.

33 is for a more or less stock or piped only bike. 35 is for a bike that has had port work. If you are looking at used, some of the early ones were shipped with a pj34, which will also work well on a ported bike (this is what I have). I hear that the newer pwk carbs are supposed to be better than the pj. I love my single, and have one on both mine and the wife's bike. They help the most with the low to mid range, without hurting the top any at all. If you are looking for a drag bike, I think that bigger duals are the way to go. But for anything other than drag, the setup works great, and as a bonus, jetting changes are much easier to do, and you don't have to worry about carbs being out of sync.

Yes, take the head gasket off. The O-rings are what create the seal with the aftermarket heads. Having the head gasket in there is just raising the head which is lowering your compression slightly, and giving you another point for possible failure.

No joke. I have his port work on one of my Banshees, and have been quite happy with the results. I have ran it for about 3 seasons now and it is still running well, so I was thinking of seeing what he would get to port my son's Blaster. I know there are quite a few options out there, but everyone in Southern California wants about $300 + to port it, bump compression and bore it, which is more than I paid to have that done on my Banshee when Allpro did it for me.

Does anyone know how to get hold of Brian from Allpro Cycles? He no longer has a web site, and I was wondering if he still does any work.

Send pics of the MAURA'S HYDROLIC CLUTCH to [email protected]. I am interested.

Are you sure it is a 200 Watt Ricky stator? Some other brands use additional wires like you mention, with a stock lighting system and additional wire for supplemental lighting. Also, Ricky stator use to sell a system that had two lighting circuits, but I believe it was a 260 watt rather than the 200 watt single channel they have now.

Stock stator is rated at 70, so 2 lights at 35 each and you are maxed out. For good lighting, you need to either get a bigger stator, such as the 200 watt available from Rickystator, or some other high wattage aftermarket stator, or go to HID type lights which will give a brighter light off of lower wattages. Some companies recomend that with a stock stator you run one 35 and one 20 watt light.

Reed spacers will probably not make a difference in jetting, but changing reeds will definatly require a plug check to confirm jetting, because jetting changes are likely.

Perhaps it was a Clarke tank you saw http://www.clarkemfg.com/Merchant2/merchan...ory_Code=yamaha IMS also makes aftermarket oversize tanks, but the clarke looks a little more like stock.

Send me some pics. I would be interested. Does it run and do you have a title for this bike?

How much are you asking for it? Where in Cali are you? What does it need? Just a top end or is the crank trashed or the jugs trashed? What year is it and what condition is it other than the motor? Green sticker or red sticker?

I have used the impact method on Banshees a few times and it worked great. But just a few weeks ago, I had a problem doing this on a blaster. Using the puller with an impact caused the end of the crack to squish out so that it was a little shorter and fatter on the end. To put the bike back together, I had to grind the end of the crank down in order to put the nut on. If it would have dammaged it just a little more, I would have been buying a crank. You have been warned!

Come on guys, I am sure some of you know if this head will use coolhead domes or if you have to use theirs only.

I just purchased a used banshee with a Rhino head on it. The seller told me that it has 16 cc domes in it, which I believe is true because compression measures just over 210 pounds. I would like to change the domes out to get about 150-160 PSI, but I don't know if Prodesign coolhead domes will fit or if I must get the ones directly from Rhino. The ones from Rhino are like $90 a set. What would be the minimum octane at that compression? In my other bikes, I set them up for 155-160 PSI and run 91 pump fuel. At 210, I know I need more octane, but how much I don't know.

Just because the intakes are opened up a bunch does not mean that these jugs a drag ported and will have no low end. I don't know a lot about port timing, but I have seen a set of jugs with the intakes opened way up like this, and they run very good from bottom to top. There are way too many factors in determining how a motor will run than just looking at the intakes. Transfers, exaust timing, carbs, jetting, pipes, reeds, pistons, and compression all play a part in determining how a motor will run and where it will make its power. Have someone who is good with port timing look the set up over and they can probably tell you what it was ported for. One way of increasing bottom end power that I am a big fan of is the 2-1 carb set up. I have one and so does my wife, and it seems to realy wake up the low to mid without killing the top.

Also, if you are going to take it apart to clean the junk out of the crank, you will need one special tool. You will need a flywheel puller. Do not try to pry the flywheel off without a flywheel puller, or you will ruin it.

I like my FMF Fattys. My wife use to have a set of T5s on hers and we switched her to FMF Fattys as well, and we prefered them over the T5s, because they run just a little better down low on her bike (Trinity stage III ports). But, I remember seeing some dyno sheets on some CPIs here on this board about a year or 2 ago that looked very impresive. I would actually like to try the CPIs out myself.

Well, if it was a close race now, and your bike is stock, try this. Get yourself a good set of pipes. I like the FMF Fattys myself, but I have heard others who have had good results with Toomys or CPIs. Basicly, any aftermarket pipe will kill the stock pipes, but some aftermarkets work better than others. Make sure you rejet the carbs once the pipes are replaces, otherwise the bike will be lean and burn up. Once you have the pipes, you can advance the timing. There are several ways to advance the timing. The cheapest way is to remove the stator, and use a dremel to elongate the holes on the mounting plate the stator sits on, so that you can advance it 3 to 4 degrees. You can also change the timeing with a degree key ($25) or with an aftermarket timing plate ($100), any way you do it is fine, so long as you only advance it by 3-4 degrees. Next, increase compression. This can be done with any of the aftermarket heads ($250-400), or by having the stock head shaved by a machine shop($30-45). By increasing compression, you will gain power, but if you increase compression too much, you will have to run race fuel. Stock compression is only about 110 psi, and you can run 150 psi safely on premium pump fuel. I actually run 160 psi on pump fuel without a problem, but I have had others say that this is on the edge. By now, you should have what you need to beat this yfz 450. If not, then the nex step would be to take the top end off and have the jugs ported by a reputable shop. You can realy gain alot of power by having it properly ported. While you have it apart for a port job, this would be a good time to have it bored to the next piston size and replace the pistons with a fresh set of wiseco pistons. Now you should be able to smoke him so long as you know how to hold on.

I just paid $564 for a Banshee to go from Michigan to Southern California via A-A Motorcycle Transport. This is door to door, no fork lift needed. They strap it to a pallat, so it does not need to be crated. All they ask is that the fuel be drained and both addresses be accessible to a 65 foot rig, no really small narrow streets. Their # is (888) 347-1391

This Banshee has been sold. I bought it.

A friend of mine is building a 420 long rod engine. His crank is a stock stroke crank with long rods on it. His jugs have already been sleeved for a big bore piston and are MX ported for a stock stroke, stock rod motor. The question I have is with the Wiseco longrod style pistons, is there anything else that needs to be done? My understanding is that he should be set to go once he buys a set of the Wiseco pistons that are made for a long rod motor. The shop that we were at trying to have the jugs bored at said that since these jugs were ported for a standard rod motor that they may need the port timing modified and the deck height changed by shaving the top off the barrels to work with the long rod, even when using the long rod style Wiseco pistons. Are they wrong, or will these jugs need additional work done to them?