PUSH THE THROTTLE

News is funny, anybody remember when Hillary's van blew a check point and injured a cop? http://newsmax.com/archives/ic/2006/2/13/1...shtml?s=ic&s=lh

DO you have to use a donut?

Mine was locked solid, I hammered, mauled, air hammered and got nothing but about 1/2" total movement till it was completely locked. Got out the torch heated that bolt up on the ends and blew the molten bolt ends out. Swinger pulled right out once the ends of the bolt were gone.

See if Tranny fluid does anything for it.

Get the Dyna, plug it in. You don't have to program it but you will always have the option in the future. It comes with a switch that allows you to change between 4 curves as you like. I got mine from Trinity a couple years ago.

That sums it up, the member who made that must have been a jeenious.

WORD, no need to take any unnecessary risks. Either he puts the money up or you keep it, easy enough.

Time for him to take Hillary on a little expedition

Nice job Freestyler Keep working hard and you'll get up there, sounds like you put on a pretty good race. Asscrack racing

I think I'd take the money and

I figured he just said that so he didn't waste his own time looking it up

As a teen Chuck Norris impregnated every nun in a convent tucked away in the hills of Tuscany. Nine months later the nuns gave birth to the 1972 Miami Dolphins, the only undefeated and untied team in professional football history.

You could get extended J-arms from Denton but they will cost you as much as a set of A-arms. My worry is that if you need to replace them in the future you may not be able to get them, I swapped in a new frame it was $550 from Yamaha or you can find frames on Ebay, NYUK, or others cheaper and convert it to a-arms.

I came across this and thought it fit in with this post. http://contactmusic.com/new/xmlfeed.nsf/mn...ible_09_02_2006

Sounds like $5-10 would save you alot of work.

If you're gonna lift you'd be way better off getting a Superduty than using the F-150.

I don't get it? That statement makes no sense to me.

Yes, you must order it with the adapter though. There's 2 options open filter or airbox.

You'll love his port, as said before it's really smooth so smooth it actually makes me miss the hit of the old cylinders.

My thing with your motor is that as you say you starve it is that you aren't using it to it's full potential, which seems like an odd rcomendation to others. This is very similar to the trail friendly posts on the Cheetah Cubs. In order to make the Cub manageable it needed to be detuned to a state similar to that of a say stock jug mx ported 4mm. I just don't see any point in taking a purpose built engine and "detuning" it for another purpose when you could build an engine for exactly what you want much cheaper and in turn utilize the full potential of the engine. I guess what I'm saying is why use 60% of a 100HP engine when you can use 100% of a 60HP engine?

I'm jealous, I'd love to have that frame. And I considered it but unless I was a racer I couldn't justify the money to do it. The engine on the other hand is something I'm skeptical of for the application. Your engine would seem dramatically starved if you run a 2 into 1 or twin 30mm carbs, strokers like to drink and breath. I'd like to see some vids of you on a track to see how well it works. I didn't say anything that I would consider a personal attack in your quoted post.

I purchased a Tusk Chain Breaker from http://rockymountainatv.com/ last fall and finally used it a couple weeks ago and it's an excellent tool that I consider a necessity for the price. I got it on sale for around $5 on one of my orders. I used to use a grinder to break the chain and this breaker can do it easily and cleanly in a matter of seconds. I was having so much fun using it that one of my old chains that I had laying around has now pretty much been completely taken apart. The new chain I am using is the DID 520VM gold x-ring, my last chain was the DID ATV x-ring. I went with the VM because Bobscycle had it cheaper than the ATV chain plus it has a higher tensile rating than the ATV version. I had no problems breaking that brand new chain with the Tusk tool. I recommend that anybody replacing chain get this tool and buy a slightly longer chain and an extra master link in case you decide to change sprockets in the future you can run 2 master links to get the desired length of chain and this breaker makes it so easy.

The rear shock has nothing to do with the side to side motion that Duece is talking about. Unless your shee has independent rear suspension? Duece I think you have a challenge. I'd like to hear the outcome of your bike against his all encompasing 250R geometry 7mm engine bike.