stealthawd

why not just take the tap out with a tap remover and retap it?

I'll give that one a shot too... anyone else ever heard of or seen this problem?

locktite will only work with threads. I may give superglue a shot, but dont know how well it will stick to the carbs. I'll have to squirt some on the side and see what happens.

OK...a while back, I posted an issue I was having with my carb "sticking" and out of the left side pretty bad. I had just put the TORS removal, idle kit and twist throttle. Carbs synced up great and left side still smoked like crazy. When I would turn the idle screw in, it felt like it "locked down" on the slide. Anyone who has done this mod can see that this is impossible as the idle screw pushes against the "angle" of the carb slide. Tighten screw and I couldn't physically twist the throttle...hmmmm ...now, the update... Took my carbs apart to clean them and look for something "weird" stuck in a "weird" place. Cleaned everything and was reassembling the carbs slides into the carbs and noticed that the side that was smoking, the slide was TURNING in the damn carb?!?! Remove carb and the "key" in the carb had worked it's way out of the carb. Not falling out, but not holding the slide at the right "clock". I pushed it back in, tapped it with a screwdriver and reassembled. No smoke, bike ran great...untill it came loose again cracking open the throttle while in a jump. Caps off, slides out, push key back in and head back to the truck. Now, my question. Anyone seen this? Anyone have any suggestions on how to fix it permanently? My buddy said that it may have like a 1/4 turn locking mechanism. I don't think it does because it doesn't feel like there is a keyway for it to twist into. If you're wondering what part of the carb I'm talking about, look on the inside of your carbs and you will see a hole with three lines coming off of it with a brass "slot" head on the inside. This is the actual key that stops your slide from twisting inside the carb.

did you order it from a website using a credit card? did you walk in somewhere and order it? ebay? where did you go to order it and how did you pay? if you have a web address, I can get you the owner of the domains address and phone number...

I keep reading this thread and it is hilarious so here is my .02... I agree with taking a pooh in the box...thats just classic. Just make sure you eat corn before hand so that there is NO doubt that it's yours...

Samsung S307 with Cingular...very kewl phone.

how much do you sell the blockoff for if you do at all? if it is just a plate, i could prolly have one made...like EGR blockoffs on my car...

I removed all of my TORS and parking brake junk from the perch until I can pick up an aftermarket perch (any suggestions on brands and where to buy?)... anyway...on the rear caliper, the parking brake cable is removed now, is there anything else I can take off? Is it possible to remove the parking brake arm on the caliper itself? as always, thanks in advance...

in a racing scenario, remember that big air looks kewl, but slows you down if you are using all of your energy to go up. try to keep the bike moving forward instead of up if you follow me. basically, just clear the jump without too much upward movement.

blipping the throttle will lift your front end...hitting your brake will bring the front end down. when you hit the apex of the jump, compress the suspension by letting off the throttle and hitting it again and by physically pushing down with your body...this will allow your suspension to help launch you in the air as you leave the ramp...

I used 1200 deg exhaust paint and it SUCKED. Right at the motor mount flanges, it started flaking off after very mild riding. Went riding a lot more serious the next day and it isn't sticking worth a crap. I'm looking at ceramic coating them...just need to find a local place...

I'm gonna go out on a limb and say you hate Led Zeppelin?

yeah it will...the reason the idle kit is required is not electrical, it's the TORS tops and caps above the carbs. if they are still physically in place, the bike will still idle. if you remove them physically, you will need an idle kit.

WTF?

Just unplug the black box above the left side cylinder mounted on the frame...

I have a buddy who owns a shop in CA that has a Skyline...really wasn't all that quick when he brought it to one of our national gatherings. I want to say it ran high 13's...about the same as a stock vr4. You can see it at www.gtpro.com...I think I have some vids of it somewhere running, I'll have to try and find them.

yeah...i did that part...just used a Dremel cut off wheel and whacked it off. the angle i was referring to was the one on the actual slide itself.

that helps perfectly...i was trying to look in from the air box LMAO DUH, thats what the little damn windows are for...

i use my right foot for both (heel/toe). It's actually pretty common practice in racing...a lot of guys use heel/toe driving and blip shifting. It allows them to brake and blip the throttle to keep the RPMs up. it's easier than it sounds...you lift your heel off of the brake as you floor the gas. aftermarket pedals help with this a LOT!!! read up on the EVO boards...they are really bitching about the stock clutches. there have been a bunch of them burn up. another BS thing mitsu is doing is actually watching the tracks...if you are running your car, they won't warranty anything. the local shitsubishi stealerships have actually taken pictures of license plates at Gateway Raceway and nigged on warranty work cuz the owner was racing. it's BS to tout a performance car that you cant perform in...

it just smoked normally before and after the rejetting...it didnt start smoking excessively until it stuck. I put new needles and 280 jets in as per the instructions from Toomey. I was thinking the same thing about something catching on the slide, cuz there is no way that the idle screws should bind the slide. it is rounded off against the angle of the slide. zep...regarding syncing the carbs. is there any tricks I should know or is it as simple as it sounds. basically, i just made sure that both cables were tight without pulling on the slides so the slides are in sync and they pull the same amount. I did not mess with the air screw on either carb. I have read that each should be around 1.5 turns out. so does this mean I screw them all the way in and come out 1.5 turns or is there a "point" I should go 1.5 turns out?

yeah...that was my first thought will that cause it to smoke more than normal?

OK...last week, I put T5 pipes on with the perfect jet kit and intake kit. I also installed a twist throttle and the idle kit and removed the TORS. Rode the day after I got everything put on with no problems. Bike ran great, nice snap...world of difference. Went riding the next day and the throttle stuck after landing a jump. I immediately shut it down, jerked with the throttle, started it and it was still stuck. Shut it down and started to check things out...the left side cable was loose, telling me that the slide was stuck, no biggie. I'm digging around in there after taking off the filter and the slide won't move. I loosen the idle screw and the slide pops back down. I start the bike and that side is smoking quite a bit. I turn the idle screw back in and it locks down on the slide and won't let you give it throttle. When I installed the idle kit, the idle screws could not "lock down" on the slide, they hit the angled part. That side is still smoking quite a bit. When I rode back to the truck afterwards, that side sounded different unless I was wide open, then it sounded normal. I'm tearing into it this afternoon, but was fishing for suggestions on what to look for first...Thanks in advance

foot on brake, feather clutch with RPMs around 4500-5000. when you feel the car start to pull, your boost is jumping up (the engine is under load)...when you feel this, dump the clutch and floor the gas and let off the brake almost simultaneously this creates your load without the car moving I worded it badly... you can get up enough boost to pop your BOV with no load, but what I meant by true boost is that if you tried to take off with that "boost" it would instantly fall away to vacuum because there is no load to sustain the boost. you can spike your boost with no load but cant sustain it...like you said. If you want to see a CRAZY turbo setup, go to www.stl3s.com and check out Von Morgan's car...that thing is just plain awesome...my mod list is there as well under my page on there

it wont create real boost unless it is under load launching a turbo car is a bit different than a naturally aspirated car...you rev your RPM's and feather the clutch which starts to put the motor under load and ups your boost, dump the clutch, floor it and galant vr4's are fast ass cars...especially since it is basically a performance car that has a family car body on it LOL...it shares the same chassis and all with the GSX...