shee4202

Ok gotch ya. Thank you for the input, I really appreciate it. I would definitely like to know how the ceramics turn out.

Did you use the TZ Baron on the clutch side and the max load Baron on the flywheel side?

I know its an old thread, but the same thing happen to me with my hotrods crank. About 80 miles on it and only trail riding but noticed the welds cracked upon inspection while I had the cases open. Glad I seen it now though. Sent from my SM-G973U using Tapatalk

Good call. I spoke with them today and I'm going to go with them. They come ready for my 485 Cylinders too.

Hello, what are the differences between the original case assembly (2gu-15100-01-00) and the superseded part (2gu-15100-03-00). What makes the newer version better if at all and which one would be recommended?

Thanks for the input and suggestion, I just put my order in with driveline. Now just have to wait to be done with winter lol.

Oh nothing, I just like to see all of my options and understand the difference in materials, heat treatments, coatings etc. I'm a metalography/materials technician so I guess it's first nature to look at those kinds of things. Why would someone choose aluminum, looks?

What do you think of JT sprockets? Also what do you think about steel vs aluminum? I imagine the carbon steel would hold up better in the long run, but you get the benefit of less weight with aluminum.

Awesome, and thanks for the quick response. I'll take a look at them links now.

Hello all, I think this would be the best place to post this but let me know if it should go into another forum. I was cleaning my rear sprocket (Sunstar 3679) and I noticed a crack between the teeth that runs through to both sides. I don't really think it's the best idea to chance using it anymore, probably best just to get a new one. What is the best sprocket on the market these days?

If not plug chops for pilot and needle, what is the best way to dial them circuits in, feel, response and exhaust smoke?

This is the first time that im really fine tuning this machine. Im also pretty new to the plug chop method. Also, I feel the same way about going a little richer all around. So I'm looking for dang near the color of the plug from the beginning of this thread? Unfortunately I have to wait until spring to get back out there but I want to hit the ground running as soon as I get a nice warm day. In the mean time, doing some PM. Cleaning carbs, air filters, chain, powervalves, polished parts. Inspecting the Reed Assembly's, changing exhaust pipe and silancer orings.

Hello all, I wasnt sure if i should of started a new topic or piggy back on this one since its essentially the same topic. I'm looking to get thoughts on the color of these plugs. I performed a plug chop at ¼ throttle (pilot circuit, air screw= 2 turns out/where max idle obtained), 1/2 throttle (needle, Clip pos second from the top), and WOT (Main circuit). They all look a bit lean to me, but the engine runs good on all circuits except the top end of the main. The top of the main just cuts off at the tip top. I don't know if that's because the main is too small or if my carburetors are too small. I'm debating richening out each circuit a tad bit. What are your guy's thought's? All of these plug chops were around 65-70 degree F and at ~1000' above sea level. This is my normal riding altitude. I'm running a 485cc cheetah engine with Trinity inframe pipes and k&n air filters. My timing is at 4° advance.Carbs are Mikuni VM36mm's. I'm running on 93 octane pump gas with klutz benol oil. I only ride trails so I'm not looking to compromise too much of my low and mid range power.

Hello Mayohsauce, I ran a cheetah 421 set up for years and never had any issues. I moved to the 485 when a couple of buddies decided to run the 485 and i sold the 421 to another buddy. Knock on wood, years later still no issues with any of ours. Fearnot is correct. You will want to get in touch with McDermott racing. The guys name is Harry and he's the one that worked these engines while with trinity and like fearnot said he got away from trinity and started McDermott racing. He is a nice guy and very knowledgeable.

My bad, Does it matter? A broken spindle is a broken spindle

Hey all, This may be a stupid question, but does anyone know why the two bolts that fasten the steering knuckle portion of the spindle are welded? I've got a broken weld on one of the bolts and was wondering if they absolutely need to have the bead of weld on there. Thread lock and/or a lock washer wouldn't be sufficient enough.

I'm looking for a +2 chromoly steering stem with anti vibe clamp. Any suggestions? How much difference is there between Lonestar and Alba? The Alba is around $100 cheaper.

Innova Sand Gear ATV Tires I was thinking about getting these. Anybody ever use these?

There was a few shee's there. There were only 4 quads competeing. One of the shee's had a trex 517. I think he was having trouble with his engine. I'm not exactly sure what happen. One of the other quads had a street bike engine and he was doing pretty good.

Also, I'm running a 485 P/V Cheetah with stock swing arm.

I've been getting into hill climbing and the other week I went to Monson MA. I ran my regular trail set up with Holeshot GNCC's. I learned real quick that the set up, especially the tires were not cutting it. It was a really sandy hill and towards the end of the day the hill dryed up and got really loose. I'm looking for a sand tire set up. The thing is, and I'm not entirely sure if it was just this hill, but they only allowed paddle tires with a break in the paddle, which I don't quite understand. I'd imagine what it sounds like. Does anyone have any tips or suggestions? Brand, type, size, etc.

I've always thought they worked good. I think they sound pretty good too. I'm running them on a 485 p/v now and I don't do much more then trail riding, and they seem to do well in the low and mid range area. I'm going to try a buddies set of shear inframes maybe in a week or so and if possible my other buddies FMF Fatty's.

I've got a buddy with the same engine set up except he's running Mikuni 36mm carbs and the thing runs great. I tried the carbs out on mine and hit a straight stretch of road and it seems to pull more in the top end where it wasn't before. I was thinking the pipes could have something to do with it too. I was just reading in another post that cheetah domes are trouble. Why is that

When I had my 421 p/v, I was running 152 (Main) and 50 (pilot). I believe a CEL needle. Clip position #3. I had trinity stage 4 exhaust, 35mm pwk's, Ran great.

Fuck ur buddy, lol