J-Madd

I meant to say staggered extremes. We picked up half a tenth from the straight paddles. 8x9 wheels help too.

+ 8 swingarm with a bar and 14 paddle 72" RO extremes will help a lot. Should get some 4.0s if you weigh 185 lbs or less.

Pm sent.

Sounds like it might be in the clutch, fibers maybe worn or steels warped. I also would recommend a bar and set the swingarm at -6 degrees.

Yea. My brother makes them. He can put any logo you want in them. We're not sponsors yet so I won't try to sell any here per se. But we are on pro sand. Draggin Plastic.

In the words of Green: FFS. J/k I'm not gonna get in on all of the "who has the funnier post" that goes around here. I wouldn't go by the (not accurately measurable time) but how it measures up to the competition.

Use the measurement at the edge. How much of the outside of the piston is in or out of the hole.

If your using trapped compression ratio then you would need to know the exhaust port duration. I stand corrected in my assumption that you wouldn't need a degree wheel. I thought this was more of a cookie cutter build.

I think you miscalculated. That would be .000 squish. If the piston is .020 out the hole, you would need a .060 step to yield a .040 squish. Am I thinking right? That's right. My example was backwards.

What motor? The base gasket is gonna affect port timing as well as squish. As far as the dome being the wrong profile, a degree wheel won't help you at all there either. There are too many variables to suggest an optimum squish. The combustion chamber volume, piston angle, dome angle, squish band length and angle, bore, all play a role in the MSV. For example, off the shelf Cub 421 domes usually do good with about 0.045". You can run them in the high 0.03x" though.

Is it just the squish? Check it with wrong domes then make adjustments from there. You can also get an idea by measuring the step in the dome, then the deck height (how far the piston is in or out of the hole.) For example if the piston is 0.020" out of the hole and you want a squish of 0.040", just order new domes with a 0.020" step.

You can print them and tape to cardboard. Just curious why you need that to cut the domes though. That would be a linear measurement.

Jonesboro, AR? There is an oval and TT track in Sikeston MO. About an hour and a half from Jonesboro.

No such thing as an aggressive dune port Cub.

If your gonna run higher gearing, and hold it WOT for very long in 6th you could use a bigger main. If you rarely see 6th gear, and ride in short, fast trails; you can run a leaner main.

Assuming the rings won't get hung in a port, and negating the effect on piston life; can a motor have too much exhaust port time area?

We'll be there.

I bought mine. Check the reeds too. Though they don't go bad often in small motors.

Air leak or sucking water. And 50 pilots sound too small. Mains are huge though, but some times you need that on a short stroke motor.

It burns slower. I think that was sarcastic. That's why you run more timing.

Are you running a pump. (I hope not). You've ruled out the problem to the carbs. Float height too high in one of the carbs? Did you switch carb tops when you swapped carbs? Could just be out of sync. Doesn't take much at all for them to load up on bottom. I'm guessing that's the problem. Air screws the same? You never said what your pilots or mains are, but that isn't really your issue yet.

I have a Magura for sale that needs the slave cylinder rebuilt. $40.

Open to reasonable offers.

You only have to replace the dome orings 99% of the time. Did you check comp in both cylinders? You could've had water in the bad side and showed higher numbers.

I use gearing calculators for all my bikes. If the dyno says it peaks at x rpm, I gear them to do that rpm at a certain mph at the end of the track. And they almost always do That mph.