J-Madd

The links don't work. Try pasting the link in the image field, then remove the duplicate"img" on each end.

It would be insane for the ATV to run those times you mentioned! :woot:

Odd...I tried to use a 2003 Raptor rear shock, and it didn't look like it would work, so I never actually attempted to bolt it up. The reservoir was in a different location or something like that.

I think he's talking about the new fuel injected 1000cc Arctic Cat ATV. Those things probably top out at 80-85 mph..I'm not sure a piped Banshee wants any of it on top end, much less out of the hole. A great rider and a great running piped Banshee might have a chance against it. Some run better than others with the same mods, thats just a fact.

Man that's the funniest avatar I've seen. :yelrotflmao: :yelrotflmao: But sorry, I don't have a 4 mil Cub for sale.

WHo has this?

You might be able to get silencers built for those..not sure.

I would say yes.

I'd run +5 for that type of riding. It will give more bottom end, and probably a little more power everywhere except the highest rpms.

^^^^^^^^^

If your just running on the track, you don't have to use rubber bushings...no brackets on the front of the pipes in that pic....and you won't have any other brackets on opposite side pipes, I don't think.

If the street bike power atvs were faster, there would be more of them... They are usually slower than a good running Cheetah, or even Cub. But..I have seem some built right that run 3.70s with 200 lb+ riders...these had big ass turbos, and 300+ hp.

Sounds like the answer is in your post.. Compression increase puts the air fuel mixture in a smaller area for a stronger explosion (for lack of a better term). Timing advance ignites the charge even more before TDC to begin the combustion cycle at the optimal time to send the piston back down, hopefully resulting in increased accelleration. Oversimplied definitions, but I think it kind of explains it.

Seems like a lot of work, compared to buying or modifiying a plate. But I say go for it.

Not sure if you can see this, but here is a pic.

They don't bolt directly to the pegs?? Most of the ones that won't bolt to the pegs, just have piece of flat metal with a couple holes in it. Sometimes it's bent or has some type of spacer.

That's how I broke in my YFZs and Raptor. Had problems with a YFZ, but it was not due to the break in. Don't expect it to run great for a while, for whatever reason...even though the rings should be seated rather quickly as hot as those damn things get.

What was it doing to make you think the old one was bad????? Wire harnesses don't "go bad", they can have damage that exposes wires..but that's easy enough to fix. Leave the black/white wire unattached, and (I think) ground the black/red wire and the black wires...or just look at your old harness and see how its wired.

I might add, that it will get hot faster, so you may not be able to trail ride, if that's what you do.

I don't think there is much benefit going over +4 or 5 on a stock engine and stock head, and you risk detonation, unless you run race fuel, jmo. Edit: I see you have a cub - hell yeah bump that timing up. Note to self: read sig before posting, lol.

They're all the same except the first 2 or 3 years, where they had j-arms. (87 -89?, I think).

I sell drugs! :biggrin: $2000 is a great price on a chassis. I paid almost that just to have a stocker lightened and stretched +24 out front (ridgid). Yeah, the swinger is unique. I've never seen one like it...I'll be interested to see what the whole thing weighs. It should come in any day. What color should I do the chassis and arm? I need some help. I really like my candy blue stock chassis; thought about going with that. What do ya'll think?

That is correct.

Just replace your clutch. Doesn't sound like you need a lockup. Unless you have 80+ hp you don't have to have it.