J-Madd

21 might be too much for a stock CDI, whereas the Dyna's stronger spark can handle the bigger gap. I'd say you're rich, and not enough timing. Of course the dome configuration is a huge variable also. What is the squish? Didn't see what you said compression was, but of course that could affect what you're plug is telling you as well. In the original post on this thread, I came to the conclusion that it was way rich, and holds heat in the pipes, while cooling the cylinders. This is even more dramatic with the T5s. I've since learned to tune my OOF bikes after a run by feeling of the pipes, transfers, then reading the plugs to get the jetting spot on. Cool pipes/hot transfers = lean most of the time.....very HOT pipes, cool transfers = rich. I also put that one back on gas with stock carbs. It never seemed right with the 34 pjs on alky (zero port work and T5s.) I also ran/run 20:1, not 24 like I mentioned above. I mis-posted that ratio.

Dang, billet cases would be overkill on a 10 mil!! But no doubt more reliable.

A buddy of mine bent the boxed end of a wrench to about 90 degrees just for that reason. Works like a charm.

I had a stock swinger on my 392 Cub once. I would pull power wheelies on gravel with stock tires when the power band hit in 4th, or maybe even 5th gear. Crazy passing a bolt on modded Banshee that's WOT in 5th or 6th while in a wheelie on gravel. Last time I rode it without a plus 6.

Would've traded for some 12'' shaws, but now they're all sold. I must have priced them too cheap!!

Thanks. The (Blackberry Camera) pic doesn't do it justice. Comps sold.

Comps sold. Still have hill shooters. The hillshooters work well for drag racing, too ... just have quicker rebound.

15/43 is a little low for more than 300 ft.....no reason you shouldn't be winding out 5th gear with your 16/43 in 500 ft.

PICS. Comps say 250 psi. Don't remember what hillshooters were. Set up for 180 lb rider.

Bought the game hoping to play single player to get used to the controls again, only to realize its online only and got my ass kicked continuosly..haven't played Socom in over a year. Messed with ya when you're used to other controls...been playing Call ofduty 4 and GTA (offline). Name is FASTR1 if I ever decide to play.

I think same as stock (20 ft*lbs, I think). I was never able to torque mine all the way. It would start stripping threads out of the acorn nuts, as the nuts could only grab about 2 threads..even with new studs. I can see where it barely leaks some around the outside of the head, only because of the discoloration on the outside of the cylinder..never actually saw water leaking out of it (since putting silicone on threads.)

I've heard the opposite. I have both and the wedges hook a lot better that the 4-snows for me. But the wedges are also on wider wheels - not exactly a fair comparison.

What is the roll out of the tire? Leaving in first or second? Assuming 74 R/0 for 300 ft, I run 15/42, launch in 2nd on my 421 Cub (15 pdl extremes). I have some 78 r/o 14 staggereds on 10 inch wide wheels that I run now on the 421 with 14/43(??) I think. Quicker e.t. across the board, but slightly lower mph with the bigger staggereds. With both set ups, I'm rapped up pretty high in 5th. Probably not maxed out in rpms, but close enough its near peak power I think. For 500 ft on mine, I'd probably go up a tooth on the front or down a couple on the back from where it is for 300 ft, and experiment from there. Get a wheelie bar and put some more paddle under that beast!!! Edit: I see that you obviously launch in 2nd gear, as you have a 2-5 override.

Shocks are like new. Will post pics in a day or 2. Hillshooters are $410 new, will take $250. Competitions are $390 new, will take $230. Will sell both sets for $450. Shipping not included, prices are firm. Competitions are less than 1 year old, hillshooters are a few years old. Minimal time on both, as I run struts at the track. Only rode off the track twice in the last 12 months. Thanks, Jerid

It'll take a few kicks to get it started at that temp. If it started easily in the cold, I'd think the pilots were too big. My stocker has the same problem, and I only have 25 pilots. As long as it starts easily when the engine is warm, I wouldn't worry too much about it.

Yep. Stroke. 4mil dragported stock cylinders and 68mm bore stock stroke Cub that I know of seem to comparable at the track and dyno.

You take my post as sarcasm, but it is not. I'm actually taking your side, assuming that it can be done, which I truthfully state that I do not know, neither implying that it can or can't.

I don't have time to add it up..probably $50??? easily in all of the drag bikes (including initial purchase price), not counting the new chassis and motor project.

Ahh, makes better sense now. Anyone want to buy 2 sets of front marvins (one hillshooter, and one competition) 14.5 or 15 eye to eye??? I'll get exact measurements later and probably post in the for sale forum.

Marvin shaw wants "$50 per shock labor and 45/per shock for shaft to cut them down", which is pretty ridiculous to me. After I pay shipping both ways, I could buy good used ones..or new. I've got 4 shocks that need to be cut. I'm not sure where the $45 charge comes from; shouldn't the only charge be labor??

I shit you not, I was just about to say "Where is loco in all of this" before I got to this page. :yelrotflmao: :yelrotflmao: :yelrotflmao:

That seems about right to me. A good rider on a 450 dirt bike can be a handful for a piped, mildly modded Banshee.

If you gear it to do 60, you'll be only be using 3rd through 6th gear probably..so I'd just leave it stock, or maybe go down to 13t and use 1 - 4,5.