J-Madd

To remove the other studs, just jam 2 nuts on there, with the flanges together (if you use flange nuts). Then use a wrench and they'll screw right out. But, I wouldn't replace the other studs if they're ok. jmo.

You can also wad some rags up between the hub and basket to hold it still.

If he's talking about these clips (#18 and #31) you can't install those after sealing the cases. click below transmission microfiche

You don't want to "make due" with any damaged parts inside the case. It'll be expensive and time consuming when something in there breaks. How did the clips get damaged? You can buy new ones. www.bikebandit.com

I also don't think the time is right, but I could be wrong.

What was your 60 ft time? Mph?

Clutch is just fried, or the springs came loose, or the adjuster push rod is loose. No big deal.

I was about to ask what times you run, until I read your sig. Not sure about that gearing, but I don't usually run wedges. Couldn't you run a 14/44 and get a little more torque out of it, with the same ratio? I run 15/43 on my 421, with 78 r/o paddles though. Those wedges like to grow unless you have them on 10 inch wide wheels. No doubt you should see some 3.9s on that once you get it dialed in :thumbsup:

A dyna programmable CDI is ok, and has several ignition timing curves, but definitely don't waste money on the non-programmable CDIs.

Make sure the gears are meshed, and not bound up. It will be hard to turn, as it is turning over the crankshaft and transmission if in gear.

I've raced T5s vs SSTs with the same gearing, timing, etc. and the one with the T5s would pull away in 6th WOT on pavement. The Banshee with SSTS was more responsive and seemed to get on the the pipe earlier than the T5s. Carburetor jetting could have been a factor, as the one with the SSTs happened to be quite a bit leaner jetted on the main (260s, with a lid) than the one with T5s (350s, no lid). We never swapped pipes to see if it made any difference. I don't doubt your comparison; just that that's not the way those 2 pipes seemed to me on those particular Banshees, other factors may have contributed to the difference in how the pipes reacted.

Have you tried carbparts.com ?

I've never been a believer of the washout theory. But I could be wrong.

Snop, I've noticed that the SSTs come on sooner, and fall off way before T5s on a stock motor. Do you have anymore input on those 2 pipes? I'm sure you've dynoed them.

Yep..check your carbs...its running richer on the left side. I'd check the compression in each cylinder when you get it put back together, just to get a baseline; and to make sure its near the same on each side.

I've never seen wear on the pressure plate before, just basket and hub. Got pics?

Last years pics. Not finished with them for this year yet.

Don't the inframes cost more than the OOFs?

That's my fastest time as well!! (not counting a 4.01 at the questionable Planet Sand race last year). Mine seems to pull any gear or tire I try with it. Might be the clutch slipping a hair off the line, I don't know.

The coolhead should have no effect on jetting.

I think I ran 165 mains, CEL in middle, and 55 pilot with that setup. It was pretty fat, but ran good. Could have stood to be leaner for sure. Sea level, 80 - 90 degrees outside.

Anyone got back to back dyno runs with sb vs bb on a 421? Ya'll got me wanting to try BB on my 421. Running sb RDZs now, and love 'em.

I still run gas domes in my alky 421, have alky domes for my yet to be assembled 10 mil Cub.