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J-Madd

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Everything posted by J-Madd

  1. I don't have a clue. I blocked them off on a set that I used to have.
  2. You don't need a crossover tube or boost bottle, if that's what you mean.
  3. That would be the ultimate sleeper setup!! FOr about 3 seconds anyway.
  4. Well its a Banshee transmission, clutch, etc., with custom Billet cases and crankshaft.
  5. Yeah, lots of snomo triples at the drag strip. They just don't have the character of a good Banshee based triple to me, though. They are runners for sure.
  6. MOre teeth in front = higher gearing (more top end) LESS teeth in rear = higher gearing +1 tooth in front is approximately equal to - 3 teeth in rear, or - 1 tooth in front is approximately equal to + 3 teeth in the rear. ex: 14/42 is about the same as 15/45.
  7. Not gonna help you now, but if you would've done a pressure test AFTER the damage, before disassembly it would at least rule that out. However, the many times that I've burned a piston, I'm always anxious to get it tore down, and always forget to perform a pressure test most of the time.
  8. How far are you racing? Without an override, in 300 ft its hard to get through all the gears, regardless of gearing, imo. I barely got into 5th gear without an override, but wound it out in 5th with an override with the same gearing. I'd gear it to the about the highest that you can, and still leave in 2nd easily. Then work on keeping it in peak power all the way down the track. You'll probably end up with around stock (14/41), or maybe 15/42 or so. Also, don't forget those pro wedges/4 snows grow a lot on the other end. Good luck.
  9. Banshee twin cylinder record is 3.29 I think. 450 based record is probably barely in the 3.9's; if that.
  10. 1/8th mile on dirt sounds dangerous on a real fast bike. You got guys running 90+ mph in 300 ft. Change the gearing and their doing 120 mph or so (just a guess) in the 8th.....ON DIRT. I'm guessing these are all just mild, bolt-on modded bikes running, right?
  11. I doubt that its even remotely possible.
  12. I like 20" plain ole hole shots, or stock YFZ tires.
  13. No downside to leaving it on, as long as your able to clutch it and shift it easily. Your clutch will last a lot longer also.
  14. Not sure exactly what you're describing. Can you post some pics?
  15. You'll be raising your ports with a thicker gasket, which may or may not be a good thing. I'm not one to give advice on port heights, or how to measure them, however.
  16. Seems like a little too much. CHeck with your builder, or the person who cut the domes. I run 0.045'' on my 4 mil if I remember correctly. 20 cc domes. What size base gasket did you use?
  17. Got pics? I don't think you'll find an explanation for that other than low oil, which apparently didn't cause your problem.
  18. Also foot pegs, drag a-arms and steering stems in the near future:
  19. 450 based atv record is a half second slower than the twin cylinder Banshee based record. 300 ft.
  20. It sometimes takes hours to bleed the rear brakes. Don't give up. A vacuum pump helps also. Be very careful not to run the reservoir dry, or you'll be starting over. I bled a damn rear brake for several hours because I let the reservoir run dry twice.
  21. I think mine was 35bs
  22. Good luck with the build, but know that it will probably be beat by a twin cylinder at the track or dunes. Cheaper and easier to build a BIG twin, but I bet you already know that. Again...good luck.
  23. At 15/40 you'd be flying in 6th with that motor. What are you looking to do? Drag racing? Duning? Trail riding?
  24. Milled head is fine on a stocker. I have mine milled 0.020'' and it has about 150 psi.
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