banshee04le

Driver impedances do vary (although most are 4ohm) so we are really just guessing as to the load being seen by the amp with the current information you have supplied us. If you don't have an ohmmeter, get one and measure the load at the amp (bypass your bassblockers for an accurate reading). Check all of your speaker wires to ground with the ohmeter and make sure they are not grounded (don't check them while they are connected to the amp or you will measure to ground). On the noise issue, insure the chassis bonding by upgrading the groundstrap as boonman said. Make sure the head unit is grounded really good and then make sure you are using a shielded rca. Cheap ones are not shielded worth a piss. A good rca cable will have direction arrows on it. The arrows should point from source to amp. Fail to note this and install it backwards and you will be dumping all of the noise to the amp instead of back to the properly grounded source as it should be. Oh, and friends don't let friends drive distortion. Turn your gains all the way down, turn your head unit all the way up (if it is a good one, otherwise back it down a couple notches) and then slowly raise the gains as much as you can...but don't drive distortion, I hate that .

So do you like chicks or d!cks??? Either way its all good . EDIT: Well for you I mean.

You don't need to heat it. I tried bending mine back with a pipe and it did not work. The end of the frame tube is smashed flat to bolt to the grab bar and when trying to straighten it with a pipe, all of the force was being applied at the flattened end of the tube and f'ing it up. Try the pipe I guess but if that doesn't work for you, I used a old bumper jack. The frame tube usually bends back to just before the first gusseted section. If you take you rear plastic off and place the jack plate under your swingarm and then drop the bumper jack down through the middle of your swingarm (right in front of your axle) you can set the jack up there to provide support under the frame, all the way back where the bend starts by that gusseted point. Now take a piece of wood and a BMFH (thats a big mother fu@kin hammer) and start beating. I got mine back to where it looks perfect and didn't even scratch the paint.

Amen But why the title and why post it in images?

As in stolen ?

Yeah, tires on the banshee make all the difference in the world. You are probably spinning your tires so much in 1st through 3rd that those pos 4 strokes can hang or even jump out front, and then when your tires hook when you shift to 4th (or whatever gear they decide to hook in...depending on power, gearing and just how shitty your tire really is)...when they do hook you are not going fast enough because of the tire spin in the previous gear and so now you fall out of the powerband and lose time. If you are trying to drag with the tires in your avatar...not good. Get some prowedge 2's...and a wheelie bar. Note: Prowedge2's have a direction arrow on them. Run them in the opposite direction of the arrow on dirt...that's what every one does and they are one of the best dirt drag tires you will find.

Yeah, I don't know. There's nothing wrong with reving and dumping the clutch. If you are absolutely sure that everything is properly assembled and it still breaks, I think I would look at finding a different set of cases.

Oh, and to all of you guys that shift without the clutch remind me to never let you ride my bike .

I don't know why you keep breaking that pinion sheerider4life, but I say use the clutch every gear. In a drag, if you practice and get fast enough with the clutch, I think it could help your times as opposed to shifting without the clutch. When you clutch, you pick up rpms and then dump those extra r's and torque to the rear wheel. When used properly, I don't think it is a detrement. Practice and you will get better but don't practice bad habits, like shifting without the clutch.

Jump on the rockets dude. From what I hear, you won't be disappointed.

The carb on 2-1 setups is the same carb used on dual carb bikes. Look at Trinity or Graydon for the 2-1 intake manifold setup. Trinity

Uhhhh....thats what rolling chassis means...no motor . Oh, you mean....never mind

The stockers would not bolt right up to my fatty's...not even close. I did make them fit by cutting off the end of the silencer so that they were the right length to match up and then had to cut a sleeve out of some thinwall pipe stock of the right diamater. I then slid the sleeve over the union and double clamped it. They were the exact same diameter so they would not fit together without the sleeve to align and couple them.

LMFAO I bet your right on too.

It could happen I had those crappy dg's on my 96' and had to take a dremel to the petcock and grind it down to get it to clear the pipes and even then could only turn it to reserve. Plus they burn the shit out of your leg. Made decent power but so will a lot of other pipes with much better fit and finish. But I got them and a uni air filter setup that clamped right to the carbs for $80 at the time so I wasn't to much.

I might vacuum more frequently now that I know that there is at least $15,000 worth of ebay product laying on my floor. Talk about cleaning up.

Trade some cash...thats funny. You don't trade cash for something. Its called BUYING . No offense. Seriously, thanks for the laugh.

Sounds like your a-arm bushings. Watch for slop at the a-arms on the frame through bolts while you move the wheel.

Right on, good post doink. I just call him doink, cause I don't know what that little symbol is...its not even on my keyboard, but it just looks like a doink to me .

I wanna play. What is it?

Right on KRMit. And Lee I don't think enough votes were tallied. I'm sure most of us are on your side. Just ban whoever needs banning. Don't let those chumps have the last laugh. They are not worth it.

How bout this weather were having?

No silencers though. Trade for v-force or 34pj's. May throw in some cash. Got something else to trade? Make an offer.