23champ

overhaul it

loco, if your motor runs like mine,which I'm thinkin it does because we live about 15 miles away from each other, it pulls hard down low when you first nail it, then it acts like its to rich (has kind of a blubbering dead spot and doesn't really want to pull). This occurs right around 3/8 throttle or maybe a little before. Then by 1/2 throttle it has cleaned up and starts pulling hard again. I think the problem is on the slide cutaway. Im going to get 1 size leaner cut away on my slides and see if that cleans up the rich spot. By the way, I hope you blow Perrys ass away. He's been kinda doggin on my motor since i had it done.

Don't know about the dead cylinder, could be a number of things. As for the crazy idle, perhaps the carb has been bored and the slide is not wide enough to seal the airflow. Or the slide could be wore out, thus causing it not seal also. The best way I've found to tell if a slide is wore out is to rub some white lithium grease all over the slide then install it back into the carb, this will help a wore out slide seal. Then fire it up and see if it still does it. Although this is just a test to see if the slide is wore, you wouldnt want to use this method as a fix.

The steelers are pretty decent for the money I guess, but they don't have any clickers (no adjustment). If I had to do it over again I would have spent the extra money and went with elkas or axis.

I have the same problem. I just got my motor ported, while I had it apart I put a new barnett dirt digger in it. I know it doesn't have any more than 2hrs on it ( most of it is break- in time on my motor , so pretty easy riding). It was slipping so bad that when i took it apart the steels were purple. I only have one thing to say about the $89 barnett dirt digger....JUNK I was told to go with fibers out of a yamaha R6 street bike, as for the steels i don't know. I cant use the barnetts because they have got so hot they've loss their temper. I hate to go back to stockers because of the lesser amount of surface area. I guess i'll stick with the barnett springs due to the stiffer rate. If you figure somthing out let me know

The clutch engages fine,there is no trouble getting into gear or missing shifts. The arrow on the clutch arm actually goes past the arrow on the case when you let the clutch all the way out. It seemes to me that if I adjusted it to where the arrows are lined up THAT would actually reduce the amount of pressue being applied to my presure plate which it turn would make it slip even more. Is this correct or is the internal adjustment something funky I'm not understanding? Sorry, this is my first banshee. I don't really understand the whole internal adjustment idea, I'm use to CR250's and 500's no internal buisness, what you see is what you get. Thanks for all the help guys

OK, I just learned something new. The little arrows on the case and on the clutch arm need to be lined up for proper adjustment,or so I'm told. this could be the reason behind my slippy clutch (they are about 3/4'' off). When I installed the new clutch I just adjusted it by the cable. looked good to me, even felt good, hell the cable even has about 1/8" to 1/16" slack in it. Does that matter? Do you think that is my fix, or should I just order a different clutch and put it in while I'm in there?

I don't know, looks like it fell off to me. If not - they did one hell of a piss poor job adjusting the toe-in

I was flipping through the July issue of dirtwheels, checkin out the "HOT ROD QUADS" when i turned to "THE LEGEND". After carefull observation i determined that it apears one of the front wheels has fallen off (the throttle\front brake side of the bike). Wow talk about a hand full!! Does anyone else see it?

When you stroke a motor it throws all your port timing off so you will either need to have someone change your port timing by porting the cylinders ,or buy a spacer plate, or both depending on wether or not its a "longrod" stroker crank or just a stroker. if its a longrod stroker you're best bet is to use wiseco's 795 pistons(they relocate the position of the wristpin). for more info.call Jim at passion racing he'll hook you up with a sweet motor 918 232 3950

I recently had my motor worked over by passion racing(12port, 4mm stroker,longrod). While I had it apart I figured I might as well put a new clutch in it (barnette dirt digger w/heavy duty springs). Got it back together and it ran pretty good, but not as good as i was expecting. maybe do to the stock carbs, I had a lot of trouble jetting them in and never did get it right. So I went ahead and dropped another $500 into carbs I mean what the hell right I've only got about $1500 in the motor already, why not bring the old grand total up to an even $2000. But Jim told me big carbs will solve all my problems, and turn it into a whole different bike. Well he was right. I recieved the carbs and intake Friday,got off work at 10:00pm stayed up till about 2:00am installing everything. Rode it for the first time the next morning"down a gravel road" and holy smokes did that bitch rip. The fastest banshee Ive ever rode -By A Long Shot-. So I loaded it up and took it to the local anual dirt drag race that i had been waiting all year for. You dont win anything, but its one hell of a good time. Showed up thinkin I was gonna kick some ass....Wrong.... I pulled up to the the line(the tackiest dirt i ever saw) dropped the hammer on that bitch and burnt the shit out of the clutch the whole way down the track (and yes it was adjusted properly). so i was thinking about a lock up clutch, but don't know how they work. Can i still TRAIL ride with it? do I have to do a case mod with a quick change clutch cover? Maybe i should just go with a differnt brand clutch? I dont know. Can someone please tell me how the lock-up works.

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