23champ

Your an idiot

your tie rods are out of adjustment. You need to losen the jam nuts on the tie rods, turn the handlebars straight and adjust the tie rods until the weels are straight.

Are they chrome?

The taper is not what i'm looking for. tapper is 1/4 to 3/4 throttle. I'm lookin for 1/8 to 1/4 which is diameter. But i dont know if I should go leaner or richer. I guess I'll just have to buy both.

Loco, Are they CGK and EGK? That should be the letters for the taper. Standard is a DGK. I'm looking for a DGM or a DGH. I just put a DGL in it but I can't really tell a difference, because its so cold out. The L1 or "clip position" part of the needle is too lean right now because of the temp outside. So actually for winter time I need Either a DEG or a DEM. I can't tell if the dead spot is from being too rich or lean. I wish there was a Dyno around here. I'm sure trying to tune in a controlled environment is much easier. With the temp changing so much right now I cant tell if I goin the right way or the wrong yea those are the ones i have i think. neither one made any bit of difference. wheres the closest dyno at anyway??? I was just gettin ready to ask you the same thing. There is one at St. Joe Harley ,but they will only run harleys on it. I'm sure there is one in KC somewhere. If it would just warm up to about 70 it would be no problem.

Loco, Are they CGK and EGK? That should be the letters for the taper. Standard is a DGK. I'm looking for a DGM or a DGH. I just put a DGL in it but I can't really tell a difference, because its so cold out. The L1 or "clip position" part of the needle is too lean right now because of the temp outside. So actually for winter time I need Either a DEG or a DEM. I can't tell if the dead spot is from being too rich or lean. I wish there was a Dyno around here. I'm sure trying to tune in a controlled environment is much easier. With the temp changing so much right now I cant tell if I goin the right way or the wrong

I've heard that they run too close to the air box ,and can burn holes in it

I bet it would be a lot of fun with a -2. Might be a little tough to get a hole shot on tho.

Don't think you under stood me right, It was 90 when it stared running good. it is now 50 and it still runs good. No changes have been made to the bike. By the way, if the temp changes 30 degrees and you have to make a three size drop in your main, you are probably gonna have to change more than just the main (for correct jetting). Come on jetting tool

sorry, I forgot to quote that last post. It was directed at jim

About the jetting/weather.. All i'm saying is the temp increased about five degree during the time it was sitting in the shop. He pulled it out, fired it up, and it ran like a top. Still runs great, and has ever since. It has gone through various altittude changes and temp changes and nothing seems to affect it now. I mean it started running great at 90 degrees and, its now 50 degreese outside and it still runs great (although, Im sure its probably running a little lean now). Seems weird Dude, I ain't tryin to dog you out, I know you know your shit. I've just been a little frustrated(sp) with the jetting aspect lately. I have sat down a looked over keihins avalible needle jets for the PWK and figured out the chart, and what i need, and came to the assmption that there was no way to get the correct jetting with what i was working with, as far as parts go. Sure, I spent a lot of time changing mains, pilots, and needle clips, and never got anywhere. I was tring to fix the problem with the parts I knew how to work with. I have always been able to jet everything in by using the existing parts. This thing is totally different, I need a different length on the needle, along with a differnt diameter needle. I hopefully can find a solution to the problem now that i have learned the whole function of the needle jet and what area(s) it affects. I think I fucked up by ordering those slides, Im pretty sure the needles Im gonna order are gonna do the trick.

The weather in Kansas doesn't change much from July to August. An average temp for those two months is about 85 to 95. Right now it is around 60 degrees and my bros bike still runs great.. no dead spots.. thats a 30 degree drop. Pretty sure it wasn't the weather As for the heads.... I guess i should have went with a trinity head like my bro because they must put some sort of magic potion into their.... 22cc DOMES!!! that Vito's forgot

In responce to this portion of the post. Yes, 1 of them is running good while the other two are set up identical to it, only difference are heads. The one thats running good has 22cc domes in a trinity stage IV head. Mine has 22cc in a vitos head. My buddy has 21cc in a noss head. By the way, the one that runs good hasn't always ran good. MY brother (the owner) had gotten tired of messing with the jetting, like the rest of us, and let it set for about a month. Meanwhile my buddy and I bought the big carbs, which affected the power curve in no way. We all decided to go ridding one day and my bro drugg his out of the shed and fired it up, warmed it up, and took off. he came back with a bigg smile on his face saying that it raun better than it ever has. I got on it and took it for a spin and to my amazement he was right, no dead spot anywhere, just smooth clean power all the way. Yep, it sure felt nice having that bitch run the way i had expected, only problem was it wasn't mine. Mine still ran like poop. No, i'm not saying its slow, because it is far from slow. I Runs very well if you rape the shit out of it. but he if i wanted that i would have gotten a full drag port. I wanted something with power over a broad rage of rpm. This dead spot is killin me But I think I have the remedy on the way... new slides moral of the story.. how can they all be set up the same and, one run totaly different? not only that but, how can it tune itself over a months time?????

Loco, sorry I wasn't around to back you up. (I just now found this post) Lets just say that I feel locos pain. After reading blue deuce's post in the product reviews forum last spring about his new Passion 12 port 4mm motor I couldn't wait to have mine done. I had been thinking of getting a set of cheetahs but the 3grad kinda turned me off . When I stumbled across BD's post, I think I fell in love with his motor more than he did. So I called my brother and one of my friends, who both wanted to do something differnt with their motors as well. I told them about this magnificent motor that I had just read about. They were both 100% totaly for it. We boxed up our cylinders and sent them away to jim. We all three talked to jim on a regular basis about the porting, we wanted our engines to be exact replicas of BD's. Jim agreed that he would go through all the motors at the same time,setting it up like "an assembly line". That way everyones motor would run identical and no one would be pissed because they were getting beat by the other. When our cylinders came back w/4mm cranks It was better than christmas. We all worked nonstop getting them back together. My freind "Jake" was the first to get his together, because I was waiting on my head to get shipped. He went through the break in and all that. After taking it easy for about 3hrs he said he nailed for the first time and thought "I was expecting more". Not only did it have a huge dead spot in the mid but, with 15 40 gearing it wouldn't even get on the pipe in 6th...Major disappointment. So after about 3 days worth of jetting and rejetting with almost no performance gains. we came to the assumption (sp) that we sould all go with bigger carbs (when I got mine together it ran just like his). So we drop another $500 in a set of PWK 35's, intakes, and all that. Yes, it runs better with the bigger carbs but, the power curve hasn't changed... Still a huge dead spot in the mid. I have tried every combination from 45-50 pilots, needle- everywere but up my ass, mains from 140-170 ,and no correction to the problem YET! But, unlike Loco I have not given up hope.. due to the fact that I don't have as much money as him, And that alone is the only reason why I gotta stick with this bitch. I got over 2grad in the motor and haven't been impressed with the overall performance yet. My latest purchase is a set of new throttle valves that have not come in yet but, when they do I'll inform every one the out come..good or bad Sould have just stuck with my original idea about the 421 cheetah. Probably would have been cheaper in the long run.

Forget the degree key. Jim says that they wont last long on a stroker motor before they break. Strokers have too much torque.

could be some sort of european (sp) exhaust. I know there are tons of exhaust systems for motocross bikes that are made in different countries that never make it to the states.

I looked up the power pros pipes on the net. They LOOK the same as CPI's. I know just because they look the same doesn't mean shit. Does anyone know how the power pros perform?

put the 280's in. clip one notch from the bottom on the needles. sould be pretty close.

Whats up with these pipes? I want to get some CPI's but, I've been waitin to find a "DEAL" on some.... Finding a set of new or used CPI's for under $500 is next to impossible. On ebay people are getting just about the same price for a set of used ones that I can buy a set of new ones for. Hell, if I'm gonna give $500 for a set they for dam sure are gonna be new. I know a guy that has a set of CPI's that don't say CPI on the side. Whats the deal? I've also heard that another company called Power Pro used to make them, or maybe still does? Is that what he's running?

all a spark arrestor consists of is a screen inside the silencer to keep sparks from flying out (thats how it is on the "SPARKY" type bolt ons. Made by COBRA) Depending on the rules of your ridding area, you might be able to just fasten some screen door screen over the end of your silencer core (internally). I've been to finger lakes state park in Columbia MO which requires spark arrestors. The only method they use to check for them is to stick a plastic rod down your silencer. If it wont go through it your good to go because the screen in a spark arrested silencer won't allow the rod to go into the silencer itself. But if it does go through they won't let you ride. Just an inexpensive way to get around the rules. Plus it provides the same protection if you get the tight knit screen.

So whats the difference between the 421 and the 485? They are about the same price aren't they? How much more hp does the 485 have than the 421?

raise your needles all the way up. Or better yet get a Dyno Jet jet kit

I used to run amsoil but, my local shop quit sellin it so now I'm runnin Maxima 927. I've had no complaints yet, other than the fact you can't tell if its mixed or not

My brother has a passion 4mm twelve port. He's running a trinity clutch and has had no problems with slipping or fadding

I've heard the tech 8's are hard to break in and are very stiff when they are new.