Ducman

Also make sure the engine is good and warmed up before adjusting the idle. It will idle differently after the engine has be riden a couple of minutes from when it is cold or even if it has only been started and warmed up just sitting for 2 minutes.

I think you are way to lean . You are jetted at about what you should be at if you still had the air box lid on. The pipes will aventually blue over time but shouldn't blue that fast. That is a sign of hotter than normal exhaust gas temps. I think you are lean on the pilot jet as well which is why it wants to idle soo high. How far out do you have the air screws? If they are more than 2.5 turns out then try going up a size or 2 on the pilots. You sould be using at leat a 310 main. 310 could even be lean if you are at sea level with cold ambient air temps. I am not as experienced as many others in this forum at jetting but on my shee with the air box lid off and with a foam air filter which flows no beter than a stock filter I am at a #30 pilot and 280 mains on my FMF Gnarleys. The extra flow from the K&N's alone will increse your main jets size by around 4 sizes. You could also try putting your air box lid back on but i think you'd still be a litle lean. The plugs can be decieving unless you install new ones and to a wide open throttle run with them, and know how to read them. Read about the plug chop on the Banshee jetting FAQ http://www.dfn.com/benkaren/jetfaq.html

I'd say you'll probably need to use the #30 pilots to get it to idle without going beyond 2.5 turns out on the air screws and I think that #300 mains is where you should start. You'll probably be just right with #300 mains or possibly #290. You should read about doing a plug chop for your WOT test on the Banshee Jetting FAQ http://www.dfn.com/benkaren/jetfaq.html

There's a guy with a full set of 04' limited black rims in mint condition on e-bay. I offered him $160 shipped but he came backd with $220 + shipping. I didn't figure we'd be able to close that gap That was the first time the rims were for sale. Now he has them for "Buy it Now" for $200 opening bid $175 and $20 shipping. I think I will just get the ITP Sand Star package deal from rockey Mountain with the ITP T-9's or the ITP C-ceries. If you take the full price of the 4 tires off of the total price of the complete wheel package the rims come out to like $35 a piece for the T-9's and $57 for the C-series. I figured that $40 per rim + $20 shipping for the mint stockers was all I was willing to shell out.

I agree with you both completely.

I also think that there's something wrong with your choke system. The problem you are desribing sounds exactly like what happened when I forgot to reconnect the choke tube between the carbs but you checked that so maybe the bowles are switched like previously mentioned. One more thing that could be a long shot but possible is that you could be simply running out of gas and need to try switching to reserve. In either case on mine it will start or fire a couple of times acting like it wants to, and if it starts it will want to bog when you try to give it any throttle and soon drop the left cylinder. Even though its running out of gas the plugs still look wet and oily. Good Luck!

My problem is that when the joints are good I cant get the shee out of 2nd gear! So sorry, couldn't resist. Drugs are bad Um kay.

I think this will help you alot. I have the FMF Gnarleys which actually came with Fatty jetting instructions, and I have installed a twin air foam filter with foam outerwear which has pretty much the same flow as stock. I tooks FMF's advice on the jetting and shee runs great. #30 pilots, air screws 2.5 turns out, air box lid on (snorkle removed), needles in the stock position (clip in 3rd slot from either end - middle position), #260 mains. Compared to the stock pipes and jetting it seems to smoke slightly more on startup and doesn't idle up as high with the choke after starting and warming it up, but starts first kick when cold with the choke on the 2nd setting (all the way out). I tired the needle one position richer, not much difference. It seems to go into the band a little easier for the first couple of times after warm up with the needle in the stock position. I ride between 350' - 500' elevation. I run the Yamalube R at 32:1 if that makes any difference. It runs good with the #260 mains from 60 degrees up to 80 or so and goes into the band in the blink of an eye. Probably gets a little lean at 50 degrees but doesn't exhibit any signs of lean and looks ok on the plugs from my experience.

I'm in the mareket to buy a set of rims and paddles. I've pretty much narrowed down what my paddle preferences are. I would like to ask what are all your opinions on rims. The stock rims seem to be a better quality rim than many aftermarket rims out there. The stockers have the rolled lip at the outer edge of the rim which provides a lot of strength and adds alot of cost to an aftermarket rim like the new Douglass with the rolled lip at the outer edge, or the rims with the reinforcement rings. The stockers look very similar to the ITP T-9 which run a tad over $50 per rim +shipping new. What's your best estimate for the cost of a stock banshee rim (ea. or a set of 2, or 4 ect) that is in mint conditions or looks nearly new with little and/or no dings. These rims are to be used for the Oregon Sand Dunes only. I also will most likely have the rims painted black to go with my 04' limited black shee. So how much would you pay for stock rims and/or would you choose after market rims instead. Thanks, Zack

When I first was looking for a Banshee I thought I would look for a real "steal" of a deal. I came across 3 scams on ATV Trader.com One of the guys wanted me to Wetern Union money to Italy. I consulted Western Union and found that if you wire money and put it in someone elses name that even if you don't give the recipient the info or the money transaction #, once the deposit clears, they can just use their I'd to get the money and your screwed! There are plenty of legit online escrow services out there and if the seller doesnt agree to an escrow service then they are full of it! Also, if you say that you live nearby and want to see it (even though you don't) and they can't show it to you, assume it is BS. I aventually said screw it and bought a new one cause all of the used shees that were any good were at least $4500.

I'd like to hear the infamous "Howard Dean Scream" one more time as my Banshee hits the pipe while running his ass over!

Man and I thought CA was bad! My uncle has a couple of work quads that he only uses for doing stuff around his property so he decided to quit paying the registration fee because he didn't figure he'd take them anywhere anyway. The CA DMV took the registration fees + penalties out of his state tax return unexpectedly. WTF! If its even still just registered in your name they got you by the balls! I blame the tree huggers! F-U you bark kissing bastards!

We keep buying them, they keep making them the same, they keep makeing more and more money every year that they dont have to do any more R&D. Damb supply and demand, damb it to hell! For the money these damb things cost and how much I just paid for mine, I want a stock powervalved 500cc yzf eatin, trx450r destroying, widow/orphin making, life insurance rate hiking, super Banshee!

909 - you got it. Holyman - your theory is good as well. My point was that is just isn't as practical due to cost for machine work to remove material from the hub area and increase risk of possible structural failure, or all that necessary to remove material from the hub area on the stock flywheel since it hass a much smaller effect. Like 909 stated aftermarket flywheels that are designed from optimum materials can better take advantage of a thinner hub area thus reducing total engine mass and an outer ring that is optomized for the amount of inertia that you want for your riding style would be a more economical choise. But thats just for the top 10% or so of shee owners that are surching for perfection and going to great lengths to get that last 10% of performance that you can squeeze out of the motor. The rest of the 90% or more of us would be better off sending our flywheels to Boonman for some conventional flywheel lightening and would benifit more by getting a little more serious about sticking to the atkins diet to drop that 30 extra pounds off our own ass!

Just wanted to stick my finger in the pie as well, it may add useful info the discussion. The equation for angular momentum (wich I don't have memorized or in front of me to look at) basically says that the inertia of a rotaing object is exponentially dependant on the distance of the radius from the axis of rotation to the mass. Therefore the further out from the center of rotation the mass is, the greater the inertia (exponentially). So, for a rough theoretical example, if you removed 2 OZ. of material at a distance of 8 inches from the center it might equal 8 OZ. at a distance of 6 inches from the center. Therefore removing a small amount of weight at the outer edge of the flywheel is equal to removing a much larger amount at near the center. Also, the center of the flywheel has to hold the forces exerted on the entire fly wheel so it is best to not weaken the center any more than is necessary and removing material at the center doesn't doo nearly as much anyway. One advantage to a heavier flywheel similar to what boonman said, is that if you add a sudden load the engine, the flywheel's stored energy helps overcome the load. Similarly, when you get a lot of traction and start to bogg the motor lets say on a hill climb and you "clutch" the motor, you are spinning up the flywheel and crank and storing energy to add to the power the engine is produccing so when the clutch is let out you are actually releasing more power than the engine alone can make thus breaking traction and getting the wheels spinning. Obviously this also gets helps get the rpms into the range where the power band kicks in so the motor can maintain a higher power level. Usually with a realy high HP motor there is less need for using the flywheel in this mannor and benifit more from a more freely reving engine. Also a more experienced rider can better maintain the bike in the propper gear so that the engine is at a propper rpm to optimize power resulting in less need to use the flywheels stored energy and benifit more from a quicker reving motor. When the engine is accelerating the flywheel is working against you. But if you wan't to say launch the bike from a stopped position, when letting out the clutch the flywheel is helping you maintain the rpms. If you had zero rotating inertia and the clutch engauged instantly (no kenetic friction) the ingine would instantly drop rpms to zero. You have to balance the benifits of quicker revs VS quicker bogs.

You wont have any problems running straight race fuel, it actually doesn't burn "hotter" it has higher octane to prevent detonation. The domes in your banshee are probably small resulting in higher compression requireing a higher octane fuel so you wont have a detonation problem. Also unless I am missunderstanding what you mean by a "hotter" burning plug, I think you are refering to the heat range. You would be better off with a stock, or colder heat range plug. The spark produced by the plug is the same for each heat range Br 6,7,8,9 ES the difference is ammount of heat the plug retains in the spark plug's body and insullator tip while under operation. A colder heat range plug will foul easier because it won't burn the carbon off and "self clean" as easy as a hotter heat range plug, but a colder heat range plug will help prevent detonation because the colder plug won't prematurely ignite the fuel as easy as a hotter plug and the head actually cools off easier. I would recommend to just use the stock heat range plug.

I checked moto-man.com just because I hadn't been to that site before and wanted to see what stuff they had. There cheapest aluminum adapter plate and foam filter kit was $89.99 I agree if the filter isn't in excellent shape you'll end up buying a new one anyway, but you may save a couple $ if you can pick up an adapter plate real cheap and buy a new foam filter. Make sure you get the kind of plate with the "O" ring seal.

Sounds strange, the leaking gas may be a float problem. I suppose the whole delima could be a fuel supply problem because of that? Whiteish plugs are an indication of a lean condition but the only way to determine if the main jet circut is lean is to use a new set of plugs and do a plug chop following the banshee jetting FAQ instructions. For example, you could be rich on the pilots which would make the plugs a nice brown color indicating every thing is ok and the mains can still be lean. http://www.dfn.com/benkaren/jetfaq.html

You can do it! Getting the carbs on/off and putting the needle back on the slide is a bitch the first time especially by yourself and with the stock TORS. The learning curve is steep but if you do it only once the next time is sooooo much easier and you will surely need to rejet again someday. $140 is just 2 shop hrs, not unreasonable but still a lot of dough to waste. And don't forget to reconnect the choke tube between the carbs. I swear it gets everyone the first time out. I knew about it but I still did it!

I'd call them up and chew some ass. Might get a free piston from them. It's woth a try.

I went into a local dealership and wanted a K&N with adapter plate but they only had a twin air. They took it out of the package and we looked at it and discussed the issues. I didn't buy it that day but decided to go back and get it after considering my sometimes wet and or muddy riding conditions. They had it marked down to $75 which is about $5 to $10 less than what most places online sell them for and I didn't have to pay shipping so I said what the hell and bought it. But the original sticker/sucker stealership price was marked at $89 if I remember correctly. The adapter plate is nice and has a really fat O ring seal, but the filter with foam outerwear fills the air box up pretty full. I was able to keep my jetting the same as with the stock filter which was convienient. I think I'll take the lid off and rejet the mains for the dunes.

I agree with BenBB 300 - 330 on the mains. I have FMF Gnarlies and a foam twin air filter with #30 pilots, air screws 2.5 turns out and #260 mains with the lid on and would probably be at #270 or 280 with the lid off so with your higher reving pipes, K&N, and lid off I also think that you are very lean.

You might be able to make the #240 jets work but from the Banshee jetting FAQ recommendations 240 is on the lean side of the range for your air filter mod, so if your at sea level with cold air chances are 240 is too lean. You may also need to go to 27.5 on the pilot jet and/or adjust air screws. It is recommended that you start rich and work your way lean so starting at #240 probably isn't a good Idea but if you do and it seams to run good do a plug chop (procedure is in FAQ) first before going out riding and running it wide open other than to breefly check the jetting. Read the Jetting FAQ in full and you'll get a good Idea on what is needed. No jetting change for the cool head. http://www.dfn.com/benkaren/jetfaq.html Coppied from Banshee jetting FAQ: Add Dual K&N carb-mounted air filters (no airbox, NOT in addition to removing snorkel and airbox lid above):4-7 sizes larger on the mains, adjust airscrews, add one size on pilots if necessary carb specs for a bone stock '87 and up Banshee: Mikuni VM26SS roundslide Pilot jet size:25 Needle:5N7 Needle clip:Middle (clip #3 of 5) Main jet size:200 (some dealers will provide or install 190, 210 or 220 mains)

It's up to 8 now on the EVO. Is the 125 a 2 stroke? 2 strokes are on the endagered species list over here and haven't been leagal to register new street bike models since the early 90's due to environmental tree hugging wackos freakin out about smog shit, global warming, spotted owls, ferry shrimp, elderberry beatles, ect. You would probably blame the 2 stroke for the extinction of unicorns if you listened their B.S. propoganda long enough! That's one reason why I bought my shee now wile they still make them. The older 2 stroke bikes are still grandfathered in and can be relicensed. I would like to get my wife an older GP bike like a yamaha tzr 250 or Aprilla RS 250 if I could find one in good shape. As for the streetbike HP arguments, there all so crazy fast anymore that it doesn't make much difference to me. Once you ride a truly high performance V twin you'll be addicted. You can take your top end horse power and use it in the straigh aways all you want, I'll be the guy leavin black strips on the exit of the corner and I go around you on the outside! (Naw, I'm not really that good in real life, but in my fantasies I'll be kickin some ass) Personally after my Ducati my next pick would be the RC51.

My Toys = (newest) 04' Limited Edition Banshee, Ducati 996 Biposto, and 95' Mitsubishi Eclipse GSX modified with a ETE 32 turbo (like a large hybrid version of the Mitsu - 20G) and supporting mods + bling bling. Wifes toys = 03' Mitsubishi Lanser EVO, and a Blaster Get the gsxr 1000 and a good life insurance policy.