Ducman

Mainly torque on the lower to mid rpm range. It made my technical hill climbs much easier because a lot of times when I would have had to feather the clutch and spin the wheels before now I can just use the throttle, not spin the wheels, and accelerate untill I hit the band. It makes it feel smoother going into the band because it pulls harder down low before the band kicks in. Theres probably more power all around but it is hard to tell because the power is smoother from the torque. A lot of difference in cooling though, makes it alot harder to overheat.

That's why I would envoke a little 2nd ammendment protection if his ass came near my house!

Stock pilots are #25 on all years. A stock #25 pilot and 340 mains would probably be flowing the same amount of fuel on the top end as a #30 pilot and a 320 or 330 main. If you have an off Idle bog then you probably have the stock ports are jetted real rich on the pilot with the #40. How you tune for the pilot if your rich is to turn the air screws out = make the air fuel mix leaner at idle. When you get beyond 2.5 turns out then you need to go down to the next size pilot. If it runs better the more you turn it in and you are at 1/2 turn out or less then go up a size. I would recommend you go down to a #30 pilot and a 330 main, needle middle clip, and start with the air screws at 2 turns out. Play with the air screws a little to see if it runs better if you turn them in a 1/2 turn to 1 1/2 turns. You can use the air screw to tune the idle and probably make 25, 27.5 and 30 pilots all work, I just think the best low end power and off throtle response is with the biggest pilot that will come in tune on the idle within 1/2 to 2 1/2 turns out on the air screws and the instructions that come with FMF's recommend a #30 pilot.

I think @ 145 lbs you probably have 21cc domes I think I think and don't need to weld the crank nope nope nope

Yeah the sand stars are definitly getting popular too because I had a set of sand star rears for 10" rims that I ordered from rockey Mountain knowing that they were on back order and waited for 1 month. Finally I got sick of waiting and went to the 9" rim size just because they had them in stock. If they are as good as most people say then they are a great value and just over $50 each for the rears. Only $330 for a full set of 4 on ITP T-9 rims. I should have them by this weekend.

I think that in the sand, the outerwear keeps much of the sand from sticking to the K&N filter and the sand just sort of falls into the botom of the air box which creates less maintenance VS the sand sticks to the foam pretty easily. However in my opinion, and I no some other people a adimate about this, foam filters filter the fine particles out of the air way better than the K&N's which is why they restrict flow more than the K&N. With any filter you should clean it after a trip to the doons so in that case maintenance doesn't make much difference. I personally wouldn't run a K&N unless I wanted to run the bike hard enough to require a rebuild once a year or more, are stricktly interestood in drag racing or want to make the most power and wanted to take the risk, but I'm sure many will dissagree. I want my motor to go a few years between top ends and I am not looking to squeeze every ounce of power I can out of it. I think that you can't get a more reliable filter than a good foam filter. Also with the foam outerwear you can ride one day then pull off the outerwear and the filter will still be perfectly clean beneath the outerwear. Ride the next day with just the filter and it will still filter the air cleaner than the K&N, or clean only the outerwear and put it back on.

Thats weird, I've never heard of any body running #40 pilots but 310 mains would probably be right with #40 pilots. Most people end up with 27.5 or 30 pilots if they know what they are doing and tune the idle correctly. FMF's work good with #30 pilots. In your case I'd go #30 pilots, about 2 turns out on the air screws, middle clip on the needle, 320 or 330 mains. Do a plug chop to check cause the mains might need to be larger if it has porting or ignition advance. Does it not run good now or why do you want to rejet? It could have some sort of porting if it idles good with #40 pilots.

Sounds like the port windows in the skirts are altered similar to Vito's power pistons which might get more power but make a weaker piston skirt and potential catastrophic failures which could wreck the bottom end as well.

I'd take his beloved shee of his and do some brodies on that Mutha Fucka's face! I'd also try to use his threats to add some time in prison and/or deny parole. If he gets out I'd parade that banshee up and down the road and rub it in his face to bait that idiot to violate his parole so he can go back to prison! Hopefully bubba's giving that asshole a little taste of his own medicine right now!

Propose to that woman ASAP before she plays fetch with someone else. A couple that rides together sticks together. The fact that she likes to screw and shares the same taste in cars is a double bonus! Thats like finding a big titted, blond, double jointed, nympho that owns a liquer store with a twin sister.

They used to sell premixed gas at marinas for 2 stroke outboards but I wouldn't run that crap. Get a ratio rite measuring cup at the dealership for $3 and you wont have to worry about how many ounces goes into how many gallons and get all confused. Mix yamalube 2-R at 32:1 or castor 927 and similar oils at 40:1

I think that will cover your ass. I'm pretty sure that if he tries to sue someone over this in the future he can only go after your sister and could probably only get the principle that he put in it minus depreciation (wich probably = nothing) before you took over payments. The lawyer will tell you what to do to cover yourself. If It doesn't work out then one way or another you should be able to get your money back but it might be messy since your sisters in the middle. One time I bought a motorcycle (CBR600) from a guy who didn't have the pinlk slip but assured me that the guy who owned it before gave it to him to pay off some debts (probably traded for drugs or something). It had farring damage but was a rediculously good deal and I had the cash to get it. The DMV needed a signed bill of sail from the owner so the guy forged a signature and I got a pink slip for it. If the bike was reported as stolden it wouldn't have worked. I knew I was taking a risk but everything worked out and the owner never came after it. I wouldn't do that today but I was 18 and would have donated a testicle for a hot rod crotch rocket. Good Luck.

(just to clarify) Get a measurement in inches and multiply that number by 25.4 to convert to mm.

Sounds like you are pretty close to me.

If your running the stock air filter with the lid on 290 is probably correct for your elev. with no other air flow mods. It could be too cold for those mains though. You'll have to do a plug chop to check the jetting. You'll most likely need to go 1 or 2 pilot sizes higher. If it runs better the more you turn the air screw in and you get to within 1/2 turn out go to the next size larger pilot. With the reeds, you may also want to raise the needle one position, move the clip to the 4th clip from the blunt end.

With just pipes and an air filter you can get away with 20cc domes on 93 octane fuel, but if your jetted incorrectly (too lean) you could have a detonation problem on 93 octane. 21cc domes are safer with pump gas. The higher compression doesn't really give you much more HP, mainly torque. You can lug it a bit more and dont have to shift down quite as much. A lot of times when you are hill climbing instead of having to clutch it to get the tires spinning so it will go in the band when you are in a too tall of a gear you can just give it throttle and it will pull below the band at low rpm enough to accelerate you to the point where it will go into the band. Since it pulls harder on the low end it makes it feel like it goes into the band smoother so it isn't so light switchy going into the band, instead of feeling weak and then getting a huge burst of power. I niticed a bid difference in the engine staying cooler as well. I had a couple of steep hills that if you were riding hard and then climb to the top of the hill WOT the whole way up, you couldn't turn it off immediatly or you would get a wiff of coolant or even puke a bit out of the radiator. Afterwords this wasn't a problem.

I'd say your off to a fine start there escher!

Mine runs good at 2 screws out with #30 pilots at 500' elev. 40 to 60 degrees. You have to try adjusting them to see where it idles the strongest at and has the best of idle throttle response when you just blip the throttle to about 1/4 open. If you get more than 2.5 turn out go down 1 size on the pilots, if you get less than 1/2 turn out then go up 1 size.

Thats funny milo, I was just going to suggest that bansheejerry look into getting a CBR600, but I see you've already found the best bang for your buck on the street. My first street bike was a CBR600; fast, bullet proof, looks good, alot more comfortable than the ZX6 I had after the CBR, and pretty inexpensive too. Get about a 93' to 97' with less than 30K miles for cheap and you'll be happy.

Infinion Raceway, AKA Sears point, is 45 minutes from Sacilito. The AMA suberbike race is about the 1rst of May if your not going untill then and is pretty cheap to get tickets. As for the insane amount of road miles your going to endure and having to see "Sling Ding Dong" I have a friend named Mary Jane that is fun to take on road trips, keeps thing entertaining, and probably doesn't mind the howling canadian either.

I'll throw in another story to convince you to stay on the shee. I lowsided my Ducati 996 when it was only 1 year old. I slid down the road quite a way and almost watched my duck and myself not far behind, slide over the edge of the road which would have sent us another 1000' down a super steep enbankment making it unrecoverable and me who knows what. I wasn't hurt too bad, it only took about 3 weeks to fully recover but I too lacked the confidence to get back in the saddle and ride fast and hard. Truthfully that was the only bad wreck that I have had as and adult and I have never road quite as fast and wrecklessly since that time even though my accident was caused by an unpredicatably dirty , sandy corner in the road and not my speed for that particular corner. But, after a while you will gain that confidence back and you will ride smarter from that point forward. After some time I think you will enjoy riding as you once did, but give it some time. Riding is a big release from living in the stressful lives we create for ourselves. Your family might not know it but they probably enjoy being with the you after a nice ride on the Banshee more than when your all caged up ridding the couch. I know I'd bug my wife to the point she'd make me go riding.

I've heard 250R people say they had problems after going up about 3000 to 4000 ft in elev. I was just wondering if the banshee is as sensitive or if anyone has had experience with starting out at an elev. that they were jetted correctly for or slightly rich and went high enough to get a bog from being too rich and how much elev did it take to do it. From seal level to 11000 ft sounds crazy, I'm suprised it can run on the same jetting at all. Like sredish said it seems like you'd have to be way lean at sea level to make it work, but I can't say because I've never tried that much change. Anyone reading this, don't try to go from jetted correctly at a high elev and go down to a low elev causing a lean condition, that would be bad. Running overly rich is not great either but not as dangerous to burning up pistons as running lean, just fouling plugs and possiblely running hotter than it should.

No!!!!!!!!! 260 is to small. With a K&N with FMF's and no lid on your air box you need to be running at least a 320 main. I'd say #30 pilot, one clip richer on the needle 4th position from the blunt end and 320 mains. To the plug chop method. Read This and it will tell you all you need to know about jetting and give you a better idea on where to start with your jeting after making mods and how to check your jeting to see if its correct.

I have the gnarlies and I have the same radiator hose problem and I have heard of many others with fatties and gnarlies that do too. I got a piece of 1" radiator hose and split it down the middle and zip tied it around the radiator hose for protection. So far it hasn't got hot enough to melt or do anything to the sacraficial hose piece so it seems to work well. You may have to bend the hanger that is atached to the pipe some to get it to fit but it should work. I didn't have a problem with that. You are connecting the head pipe on first , then the the pipe hanger, then the silencers right?

By the way, does anyboday know what the offset the stock front rims are? The T-9 fronts are a 3+2. The rear T-9's are 3+6 and stock rear is 4+4 I think, so the rear end will be 2 " wider right? I'm just wondering if the front will be wider as well so it doesn't look skinny in front and fat in the rear and not turn as good. If the stock fronts are 2+3 offset and the T-9's are 3+2 then the front will be 2" wider as well if my math isn't all fubar.