Ducman

I'd say a good rule of thumb is if you bottom out the suspension once or twice durring a long ride then your set up about right. If you never bottom out your too stiff, if you bottom out quite often then you are too soft or you need to drop a couple $G's on suspension upgrades. A lot depends on the type of riding your doing.

True. Although, don't forget that an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure like the moral of the story. If we wouldn't have stood by and done nothing when Alkiada attaked us the first 5 times or have finished the job in the first Gulf war we wouldn't be as waist deep in shit as we are now.

I'll add to the circle jerk!! 278838[/snapback] Maybe your the only jerks in this circle?

Polycarbon, Why don't you just get yourself a few purple hearts and get out. You must be an underachiever, Kerry did it in 4 monthes.

Ducman, A set of V-Force reeds will take that "top endy" feeliing right out and smooth the powerband out quite abit broader. I couldn't believe the difference they made on a couple of shees that I rode after they had been ported. They went from real peaky to real smooth without losing any power after we switched out the boyseen reeds for V-Force. 278512[/snapback] Thats what I'm runnin I just haven't updated my signature, as it is in a period of rapid flux.

When I get just a little bit of riding pants melted to the pipes (large area but not thick, just a bunch of tiny dots in a grid pattern) I use mothers polish mag cleaner and the spots come off with a soft rag and a fair amout of elbow grease. Not as fast but a very safe method.

Try adjusting your air screws in a bit more so they are about 0.5 to 1.0 turns out or drop your needle one clip position to the 4th clip from the blunt end or so. You may be able to tune that hesitation out without going up on the pilot size.

Well I took off the head this weekend and the domes didn't have the CC size written on them. I talked with Mr. Noss today and he is having me measure the squish, dome size (using a seringe and alchohol), and distance from the bottom of the dome to squish band (since 4mm sroker piston goes above the top of the cylincer and I don't know the thickness ofcylinder base gasket). Then we can see if squish clearance is part of the compression problem and figure out what size domes to run. The bike ran great this weekend and seems to be jetted really well, just runs real "top endy" and I'm sure that with more compression it will feel stronger on the bottom end. Not that it was real bad on the bottom end,but the power just hits like a ton of bricks the instant it gets on the pipe no matter what throttle position. Got to look at the tripple port inside the cylinder too. Thats some seriously trick looking tunneling work that comes out just about all the way on the side of the cylinder in its own little square port opening. As far as the dyno, if it has a sniffer to measure the A/F, that will tell you if you are getting too lean probably better than by doing plug checks. On cars (or Ford Llightenings ) that are supercharged or turbocharged if you modify them to make more boost you have to tune them for the added boost to insure a safe A/F and to not add more boost w/ no HP gain due to running way to rich, or because you went off the stock fuel curve and you computer has to shut off all fuel because is doesn't know what to do. The only way to check the tune and A/F is with a sniffer on the dyno.

Hotter plugs can get you into detonation problems. The heat range of the plug is also not refering to the spark energy, it is the plugs designed capacity to dissipate heat to the head. Typically if you are running a motor at the outer limit that the octane fuel you are running can handle without detonation due to too much compression and spark advance a colder plug will help keep detonation away. With a plug that is too hot, the heat retained in the sparkplug can ignite the fuel before the spark if there is enough compression/heat in the cylinder. With a colder plug if you don't run the motor agressively enough you can have fouling problems because the plug isn't hot enough to self clean. I believe it was sredish that runs and iridium NGK plug that he claims has a more powerful spark that gives a performance boost. Or you could run a higher voltage aftermarket ignition system. Personally I just stick with the BR8ES or B8ES (both run the same).

You would rather have Hillary over Bush and Kerry? What's the point of even discussing this then? Screw it, bring on da bitches, banshees and more of Leads' photoshop pics!

I have a set of bored stock carbs for sale if your interestood. I would think the jetting wouldn't change very much if any, maybe 1 or 2 sizes larger on the main and 1 clip position on the needle at most.

What Shredish said

Lid off, spark arrestor out, I would recommend 45 pilot, air screws 2.5 turns out, NCVQ needle on 3rd clip (this is the needle from the YZ 450 F dirt bike or the needle that comes in the GYTR Kit) and 165 main Get the NCVQ needle it makes the bike run better than just making the stock needle richer.

Thats an awsome deal. There was a fuel injection glitch on those years but I'm sure with a pipe and chip the problem will probably go away. They were pretty competitive with the Japanese 600's when they came out. The fit and finish of british and Italian bikes is way better than the Japanese bikes too. I'd get it. Why would you sell the banshee and keep the 400ex? Sell the ex! Or would it require permission from your honey?

If the ranger has a cataletic converter the oil will plug it up pretty quick unless you dilute the hell out of the fuel when you put it in your truck. I would only put in about 2 or 3 gallons at a time when you fill your tank and dont add any more untill that tank is empty, or every other time you fill up.

Yeah! No more Horse Face or Ketchup Queen! I think I saw Dan Rather shed a couple tears and was about to cry last night. Tomarrows Weather Forcast for Fallujah Iraq 2500 degrees F. and rising! I say it's time to go on a politically incorect Al Zarcawi (SP?) hunt! As for the whole electoral college thing, trust me, it is a good thing. If you broke down California by regions the olny areas that are liberal are San Fransicko and the rest of the Bay Area, LA, Sandiego Santa Barbera and similar costal cities, everywhere else, 95% of the states land area, is typically inhabited extremely conservative poeple. Since 80% of the population is in those cities they pretty much shove whatever liberal laws and state policies they want down out throats. I wish the state had its own version of the electoral college because my vote really doesn't count. Almost every time I vote on state propositions I vote "NO" on all of the "lets create another $5 billion dollar bond to fund some dumb shit touchy feely social program thats a wastes alot of money" and the libs in the city vote for that shit every time and pisses me off. Don't ever feel sorry for CA because our states broke, the libs spent the money like a junky on crack. In regards to the liberal college town and students, wait untill they graduate get a decent job and have to pay taxes. Changed my opinions and party offiliation real quick!

He He He, didn't mean to post mid way through sentence, spilled some clam chowder on the keybord and had to let the dog help me clean up the mess and I think the enter key got licked? Anyway, I got 122 psi on one side and 125 on the other. SOB I told Shorty's I wanted domes suitable for running 100 octane at sea level. Although they recommended and set the timing plate at +6 deg I would think that the compression should still be more like 160+ for a dune port 4 mil stroker on 100 octane. I ran a couple of wot plug checks today and they are looking perfect. The plugs are coming out a very nice looking tan color when I cruise around using 0 to 1/2 throttle for a long time or when I do WOT plug checks. When I threw in a new set of plugs and did a plug chop I got a nice 2mm ring at the base of the plug insulator and it was clean other than that. It was colder out today about 55 deg and it felt like it ran a bit better, the plugs looked slightly lighter today more of a tan instead of brown also. Does anybody think that smaller domes would make a huge difference or would it be only a mildly noticeable. I'm thinking of just saying screw it and getting domes for 110 octance since I can get it for only $4 instead vs $3 for 100 octance. I'll call NOSS tomarrow and order some domes they recommend for 110 but in the mean time anybody care to guess what size I should run? Another crazy thing is I found a guy locally, only 10 miles from my house that is a tuner, has a dyno W/ sniffer. Turns out he has a 4mm stroker banshee himself and is developing portwork and wants to start doing custom banshee porting for customers. He claims he's got 70 HP on his 4mm banshee with a MX port using stock carbs, stock reedcage, pod filter, and Dyna FS. Anyway I talked with this guy on the phone for like an hour about banshees, and YFZ's and he really sounds like he knows his shit. His shop is called Loony Tooners and said he has taken his dyno up to the Oregon doons a few times for events, anyone heard of him?

Wow! I feel stupid. I think I figured out my problem. I checked my compression today, I haven't checked it since I got the motor back

2 main sizes and a decent performance boost over running with the lid on, you have to clean the air filter way more often though.

I recommend these O-ring type seals. They look really clean and are a good price for a high quality billit seal. I had to trim some length off my stinger tubes to make them work on my Rockets but the seals wern't made specifically for Rockets.

Call NOSS Machine and ask them, they'll know for sure.

I split a piece of donor radiator hose and put it around the coolant line in the location you are talking about to keep the pipes from burning the hose. The other cables with a spring like cover will aventually wear through the nickel plating too. I would do the same around the cables.

Once you've hugged a tree your common sence is gone!

Yeah, if you actually wanted to get the carb out of the frame I don't have a clue how you would even go about doing it, but I thought changing the jets was easy and goes pretty quick once I figured out how it was supposed to be done. Correcting the stock jetting which is too lean mankes a huge improvement on how the engine runs especially on the bottom end.

Damb, those look clean. Minkia38 How much for an upgrade and do they bolt up to the same stinger tubes? Is the outside diameter the same? I just bought a set of sparky's.