Ducman

RSTB had some good info for you. +4 with the Dyna and your mods would probably be ok. I'd just be sure that you have the necessary octane to support your compression and timing. If you were close to the limit on octane with +4 on the stock ignition before the extra +3 and stronger spark could put you into detonation trouble now.

If you ride in dusty conditions and want to take the air box off use the Uni foam pod filters with foam outerwears. They will get dirty much faster than with the filter in the stock box but are pretty easy to take off and clean. If you ride through deep water keep the box on. K&N pods with outerwears are way better than foam for the sand because the sand doesn't stick to them, but a good oiled foam pod will filter the small dust particles better in dirt. The air flow is pretty close between the two types. A pair of foam Uni filters are only about $25 and K&N with outerwears are about $60+.

Maxis I-Razr, Razr II, or ITP Holeshot HD are all good tires with plenty of traction, my next set is going to be the I-Razr.

Welcome to the HQ, but be warned, you don't have to come here very many times before you will catch a disease in which there is no cure.

Thanks for the info Broke, sounds like a fair amount of work involved. I might think about this project if my friend has all the other parts listed, but I dont think he does, or at least he didn't mention them. I think for the $$$ it would cost to round up all those other parts I would be just as happy with something like the Hot MX port for my 4mm on some regular shee cylinders. Actually, I should just work on my suspension and setup and be happy with what I got, but you know, the grass always looks greener on the other side. Tons of power right off the bottom as well as huge top end up would be pretty cool though. The Flanges mentioned are for the pipes? They are welded on the the pipes so they fit the exhaust ports?

I found out guy I work with has a set of RZ jugs and the rest of the motor minus pistons sitting in his garage. The jugs are supposed to be stock bore and the motor is in good condition although he said something about the side cover leaking, but it he could just have seen where someone blocked off the oil injection pump lines. When he told me I was like dude, why ya been holdin out on me!!? Anyway, he want's to trade the motor and/or cylinders to a local builder for some go fast goodies for his Z-400 (yeah, I know, its going to take quite a few more $'s to make it less slow) or just sell the parts. I told him I'd see how much the cylinders and motor are worth and ask the builder what all he might trade. I haven't asked the builder yet. If they are cheap enough I might consider buying them myself, maybe a little project for next winter. My questions if I were to use the cylinders: Will they work with my current 4mm stroker setup with just proper porting? Would I need to run a spacer plate, and/or would my stroker domes and Noss head work. Can just about any builder that ports banshees do the porting? What all else is needed for the power valve setup? What controlls the power valve, CDI? Seems like I remember reading about some sort of other electrical wireing involved, or is it just for the PV's? I could find this info if I searched but I figured I'd ask since I had other ?'s and my connection is as slow as dirt. Thanks in advance.

Yup, I run foam in the dirt and K&N pods in the sand. I mainly run pods due to 34mm carbs/billet intake/v-force and lack of space. If I had stock carbs I would keep the box or go with the Toomy 2 into 1.

On the skid plate, yeah I'm definitely pulling that thing off for the sand, its trashed anyway. The sand was about as wet as I have ever ridden, it rained hard every night and into the early morning. It never binded the chain in the dry sand before like it did on this trip. My sprockets, front and back are getting worn on the pull side of the tooth but the wear is not anywhere near the tip to make them sharp. I ususally pull on the chain in the middle of the rear sprocket to see how much slack there is in the chain around the sprocket, and how much you can bow the chain side to side along with the visual wear on the sprockets to guage wear. I might buy a chain and sprockets to have on hand and run the current set a few more times, see how it does with no rear skid plate dragging in those deep ass ruts. Looks like my swingarm slider is showing quite a bit of wear, looks like it is wearing a lot on the inside from spinning around the swingarm. The rollers look fine. I'll check into the other parts mentioned as well. Thanks

I immagine it varries quite a bit with how much you ride and what conditions, but I figured I'd ask anyway. My sprokets look fine but my chain is pretty worn out. I clean the chain and keep it lubed like it was my weener. I've babied the stock chain for 1.5 years and it has only ever streatched durring break in and has required no adjusting untill recently when rode the piss out of her at the doons, it stretched some more and I had to adjust it while there. I am changing the chain and sprockets and was wondering about doing the chain block/guide (due to the problem described below), roller and slider. The slider and roller are getting a bit worn but I immagine they could probably last through another chain. Anyway, I just want to know how often have you all needed to replace the slider, block and roller? Recently at the doons and only in the really moist (it rained a lot durring that trip), yet deep and loose sand where there were deep ruts in a steep single wide (where your are practically high centered) trail, my chain seemed to bind up like a sumbitch in 1rst and sometimes 2nd gear. Almost thought I broke the tranny the first time it happeded. It seemed like was popping in and out of first gear like it wasn't in gear correctly but after doing it a few times I figured out it was the chain. It wasn't quite as bad after I tightened the chain either. I think the symptoms were a combo of the tires suddenly spinning free from being partially high centered and catching again over and over and dragging the rear guard and sprocket in the sand causing the chain to bind up too. The funny thing is the guy that was riding with me on a Z-400 said the same exact thing was happening to him too and only in the same exact locations as me. His chain was about worn out just like mine. It really made it fuct to climb the side shoot off O'l baldy at Winchester which pissed me off bad. I would have sold my left nard for a +4 swinger and 22" haulers. Also my stock rear disk/sprocket guard has gotten beat up over time and seemed to be touching the chain block pushing it slightly to the inside causing a little wear from the chain on that side too. I'm going to take the guard off permainitely. I'm wondering if I get a new chain and sprocket if the problem will go away or does the wet sand just bind shit up like that. Also would a nice chain block like the cascade help? Thanks for any responces Banshee Bros

If the guy that you bought the banshee from didn't say anything about running race fuel then you most likely have 21cc domes (which is what comes standard with a cool head becasuse it is safe to run on pump fuel) but don't count on it. If you test your compression then you can figure out what domes you have (based on the chart below I stole from NOSS's web site), or take the head off and read the cc# scribed on the dome. Once you know your domesize/compresion then you can get a safe reccomendation for timing advance and octane requirements. For example, if you have 20cc domes and go +5 timing advance on 91 octane pump fuel near sea level you will be taking a huge risk and probably detonate. +5 deg and 21cc domes on 91 octane and you will be fine. You can get a compression tester at any autoparts store for $15 and it will only take 10 minutes to do the test. Sea Level 1000' 18cc 197 - 178 19cc 183 - 167 20cc 169 - 156 21cc 156 - 145 stock 130

The TM34's have 2 screws to remove the carb top and 2 small screws in the slide to remove the needle but they seem just as easy as the stock slides to me. Putting the springs and cable back on was a major biotch the fisrt couple times though, much harder than stock carbs, untill I figured out a couple tricks to help get them back on, now its easy. The Keihin may be easier to make jetting changes, but I thought the TM34 Mikuni was pretty easy to get the jetting dialed in as how the motor ran and responded to changes as far as being able to tell when it was too rich and when it was right on.

I'm running the NGK BR8EIX. It has the finer iridium tip. $8 ea. It seems to start cold better and possibly a little better performance. I ran 17 gallons of fuel through the shee in 3 days in the OR dunes last weekend and from the looks of the plugs after the long weekend, strap and electrode show zero wear, they will probably last forever. It also seamed like when I took the bike out on the sand for the first time on that trip, 50 degrees, 100% humidity, getting rained on like a mofo all night long on the trailor, after a 2 minute idle warm up, and previously being started in the garage several times without riding it to clear it out, the bitch was ready to kill with the first twist of the throttle. It never once acted like it was cold or loaded up with fuel all 3 days. I'd only recommend using NGK heat range "8", The performance benefits from the other style electrode tips is very slight other than longevity. Aftermarket ignition (dyna or GYTR cdi box) will give a stronger spark and noticeable power increase if thats what your looking for.

If the Mikuni's dont fit, the keihins do, and you have more experience jetting them, I'd probably just stick with them. I would guess performance would be fairly similar, although I do believe most builders go with the Keihin. Maybe they are more fine tuneable or something. I don't have any experience with Keihin, which most poeple on the HQ with aftermarket carbs have, but I do run the TM34's. About the only difference I can tell you is that instead of changing the needle to go a whole range leaner or richer as on the Keihin's the Mikunis change the dump tube. Once you get the correct dump tube (aggressively ported banshee's typically like a Q-0, 34mm TM's come new with a P-8 which is too rich) the needle that comes with the carbs works pretty well. I've heard of people on the HQ with Keinins chasing around different needles richer, leaner, not to mention the lengths, tapers, for richer/leaner tip in or richer/leaner at 2/3 throttle. I cant say for sure, but it seams like Mikunis might be a little easier to tune in the needle department and they use the same style main jets as the stock carbs, pilots are different style than stock but the size (i.e. #30) is similar to stock carbs. The dumb tubs are $15 ea. though.

Selling on e-bay for some money to buy a set of Rockets J/K They are a pretty good all around pipe similar to fatties. Excellent bottom and mid, good for trails, MX, and technical hill climbs. They make excellent power for 1rst through 3rd gear riding, 5th and 6th are pretty weak.

I raced a guy at Sand Mountain with a ported stock stroke motor, T-5's and a single carb, he had his shit set up perfect for Sand Mountain and the drag hill (+ swing arm, 10 paddle haulers, built and tuned in Reno same elev., ect), and it was damb fast. I weighed a bunch more than the other guy, but we were dead even all the way up the drag hill every time, and I had duel 34's, rockets and 4mm motor. I was having bad needle jetting issues at the time but my mains were pretty close, just a couple sizes rich. He claimed he got way better mileage with the single carb too.

If you go from stock timing to advanced ignition, which the dyna does, go up one main size, possibly 2 since it also gives a more powerful spark.

I thought dynoport only made 2 into 1 pipes? Do the have duels now? I haven't heard about anybody talk about dynoport duels before.

Get the raise your credit card limit mod, your shee will go much faster than if it can easily be maxed out with the first couple mods. J/K, get an airfilter kit with a plate that holds it securely to the airbox, and some pipes.

Take the head off and get the # off the piston top. If it is a long rod, almost guarenteed it will have 795 series pistons (5mm offset wrist pin to go with 5mm longer rod). If memory serves, will have something like 7956450 Thats a 795 series piston with 64.50 mm bore (if the stock cylinder was bored once to clean up after porting)

Polished stainless trinitys would be pretty cool if you have the dough, but for performance, Rockets.

New rings, 340 mains on both sides and it will run like a ape being raped by an elephant.

Yeah, you need to know what size carbs you have, (probably TM 28, 30, or 34) what size jets are in the carbs now, and most importantly how does it run now, i.e. really boggy off idle, part throttle, or WOT? Do you know if it has been ported? I have the TM34's so I may be able to help some.

Sounds like you may be rich on all jetting. I'd get the bike to idle good with good off idle snap then get your needle dialed, and finish with the mains. It will make it hard to tell how its runing on the top end if it runs like shit untill you go WOT.. To start, try turning your air screws out, if more than 2.5 turns out, go to the next smaller pilot size. Next drop the needlle down a notch or 2. If these changes get the bottom end performance feeling peppy then your are going in the right direction you should be able to get her dialed in on the pilots with the airscrews and possible changing the pilot once, about 3 trys on the needle (you may work your way down untill it feels lean and then come back a notch). Now do some WOT checks on the main and get it dialed. You may want to post all of your mods, what type of carbs and what is the current jetting that way people can give your a closer starting point so you know what size jets/needles you may need to buy.

I looked into it because I'm in that situation now, although I didn't go that route because we are supposed to get cable sometime this summer. I have satelite TV now. Dish and direct want the same fees as you mentioned with 2 year min subscription. I found one company that was local, not dish or direct, but the equiptment/ install was only $200 and $30/ mo. w/ one year subscription. UP/download speeds were similar to what you listed.

I bought my set almost a year ago, I think May of 04. I have recently had some chrome starting to flake off at the welds, mostly near the head pipe which isn't very visible, but a couple chips on top in a visible area recently. I clean them with polished mag cleaner after every ride and shee lives in my garage so the chip spots haven't been able to rust, but after 3 days of riding at the coast they were noticeably starting to rust. The areas away from the weld have remained perfect (other than a few small imperfections there when I got them) and I haven't had any blueing near the head pipe which is surprising. The actual pipes (rockets) themselves seem to run pretty cool surface temps compared to my FMFs. If you have a GOOD chromer locally that does it for a good price I might go that way, otherwise buy them chromed. I think the newer chrome rockets are better than a year ago. I'm pretty sure mine weren't tripple chrome plated, just one layer of chrome unless all three layers are chipping off at once on the welds. T-5s seem to blue at the headpipes prety bad. CPI quality is very good from what I have seen.