ROOFCOCK

DO YOU HAVE PICS

stock??

thanks for the input

HEY GUYS, ITS NOT A BANSHEE BUT I COULD USE THE HELP. IT'S MY KIDS LT 80 QUADSPORT. IT JUST DIED ONE DAY. SO IT WASN'T GETTING ANY FIRE. SO I GET A COIL OFF EBAY PUT IT ON FIRED RIGHT UP. RODE IT AROUND YARD FOR A MINUTE LET IT SIT. WENT TO PUT IT AWAY AND NOW NO FIRE AGAIN. I HAVE ALREADY REMOVED AND CLEANED FLYWHEEL AND MAGNETS ON THE STATOR. DOES ANYONE HAVE ANY IDEAS. THANKS ROOF

HAD CAST AND IT SHATTERERED ONE DESTROYING MY STOCK CRANK I THEN WENT TO FORGED WHEN I PUT IN THE STROKER AND DONT HAVE AN OPINION ON THAT. BUT IT HAS TO BE BETTER THAN CAST

GOOD POINT

SO IS THE PIC

ALRIGHT LETS BE REALISTIC IF THE BEARINGS CAME APART YOU HAVE A CHORE AHEAD OF YOU. WITH THE EXCEPTION OF AXLE REMOVAL. HOWEVER IF THEY ARE THAT WASTED IT MAY STILL BE CHORE. IF THE AXLE DOES NOT COME OUT EASY DONT GIVE UP JUST KEEP BANGING IT. MINE TOOK A TEN POUND SLEDGE HAMMER AND ABOUT 100 BLOWS WITH IT AND MY BEARINGS WERE NOT IN BAD SHAPE BUT I REBUILT THE BIKE AND CHANGED EVERY BEARING SO IT HAD TO GO. THE LINK POSTED GIVES GOOD INFO IN BEST CASE SCENARIO. BUT IT NEVER WORKS THAT WAY FOR ME SO HOPEFULLY THIS HELPS IF UPON REMOVAL THE BEARINGS GIVE TROUBLE DONT WASTE YOUR TIME BUY A DREMEL AND SOME CUTTING STONES..... THE BEARINGS HAVE A CENTER, BALLS, AND AN OUTER. IF THEY DONT COME, OUT BEAT THE CENTER OUT AND FIRE UP THE DREMEL AND CUT THE OUTER IN 2 OR 3 PLACES BEING CAREFULL NOT DAMAGE THE CARRIER. THEN FROM THE OPPOSITE SIDE USE A LONG PUNCH AND SMACK THOSE PUPPIES OUT. NOW FOR THE NEW BEARINGS DONT BUY STOCK THEY COST TOO MUCH. IF YOU NEED HELP WITH WHERE TO GET THEM PM ME AND I WILL POINT YOU IN THE RIGHT DIRECTION. ANY WAY TAKE THE NEW BEARINGS HOPEFULLY THEY ARE DOUBLE SEALED. TAKE A SMALL POINTED TOOL I USE SHOP TWEEZERS, AND CAREFULLY REMOVE THE SEALS (DO NOT PIERCE THE SEALS) NOT TO "put grease around the bearings" BUT TO PACK THEM FULL OF GREASE. THEN PUT THE SEALS BACK IN. WITH AXLE (BEARING) SEALS COAT THEM WITH GREASE AS WELL. AS FAR AS THE LINK GOES ALL OTHER INFO IS GREAT. IF YOU HAVE TROUBLE PM ME AND I WILL HELP, AS I HAVE DONE THIS AND MANY OTHER BEARINGS ON MANY BIKES WITH NO TROUBLE

I HAVE WHITE FENDERS AND BLUE GREEN TANK AND RAD PLASTICS MAKE OFFER PLUS SHIPPING

THERE IS A BIKE SHOP NOT FAR FROM ME THAT SPECIALIZES IN OLD YAMAHA ENDUROS MAYBE THEY CAN HELP. IF YOU READ THIS HIT ME BACK AND I WILL GET YOU THE NUMBER BUT OTHERWISE I WILL GUESS YOU GAVE UP

HAVE AN ADA RACING HEAD. OLD STYLE (THE WATER INLET DOES NOT HAVE THE 90 ON IT THE HOSE DOES LOST A PISTON SO THERE IS A MINOR BLEM ON ONE DOME IT HAS 22CC DOMES. ONLY USED FOR ABOUT 15 OR 20 HRS WHEN POOR JETTING KILLED ENGINE. MAKE ME AN OFFER OH YEAH ITS GOT A COOL BLUE ANODIZED FINISH

SO I SPOKE TO THE GUY I GOT ALL THIS STUFF FROM AND HE INFORMED ME I COULD STACK IT UP LIKE IT IS USING THE COPPER SPRAY A GASKET TO LIGHTLY COAT IT. DOES ANYONE DISAGREE WITH THIS IF SO WHY? I AM DEALING WITH MIKE AT LAKES MOTOR SPORTS WHO HAS BEEN A TREMENDOUS HELP AND I AM NOT DOUBTING HIM JUST LOOKING FOR A SECOND OPINON DUE TO THE LARGE SUM OF MONEY THIS PROJECT COST IM JUST TRYING TO AVIOD A CATASTROPHE DLNOSS THANK YOU FOR RESPONDING SO QUICKLY

DOESNT THE BASE SPACER PLATE GO FOR TOP END IMPROVEMENT AND ALSO WHERE DO I GET THE STROKER DOMES DO YOU MAKE THEM AND IF SO DO YOURS FIT THE PRO DESIGN HEAD

SO I HAVE BEEN HEAVILY MODDING MY SHEE AND ONE THING AFTER ANOTHER THE ENGINE IS CLOSING UP. I WAS USING AN ADA RACING COOLHEAD. THINKING THE PRO DESIGN DOMES WOULD WORK I PURCHASED THEM FROM THE GUY WHO DID MY PORTING AND BORING. WELL WHEN I FOUND OUT THEY WOULDNT WORK I JUST BOUGHT THE PRO DESIGN COOL HEAD TO SAVE A HASSLE AND TIME. SINCE I AM AFTER LOW END FOR WOODS RIDING I WENT FOR THE TOP END SPACER PLATE (4MM LONGROD CRANK) WHICH IS BASICALY A PLATE WITH A HEAD GASKET ON EACH SIDE. PRO DESIGN SAYS NOT TO USE THE STOCK HEAD GASKET BECAUSE THE O RINGS SEAL IT. WELL WHAT ABOUT THE SPACER PLATE. DO I REMOVE A GASKET FROM ONE SIDE OR USE IT HOW IT IS. ALSO HE SENT ME A CAN OF COPPER SPRAY A GASKET. AS I HAVE NEVER USED THIS BEFORE I AM A LITTLE LOST...DO I USE IT ON THE HEAD THE CYLINDER BASE OR BOTH THANKS IN ADVANCE....ROOF PS ANYONE WANT TO BUY A HEAD CHEAP

thanks for the input. i am waiting for the bearing in the mail since my local stealer didnt have it...of course

so i split my cases and cleaned and inspected everything. (putting in a 4mm long rod crank) when i noticed the bearing in the upper case half....where the clutch arm goes through was hard to turn and missing 3 needles. i am having trouble removing the race. so i was looking through my oem manual and in the water pump section it stated you could put the cover in the oven and bring it to about 200 degrees to assist in bearing removal. can i do this with the crankcase as well or will it distort its shape. we all know this project isnt cheap and i dont want a $10 bearing turning this into a mess. any help would be greatly appreciated

instead of replacing just the washer replace the adjusting post washer and nut together. i had a problem with mine slipping then hard to pull so i went to a heavier oil and it worked fine until it blew up. also when you put the plates in did you soak them in oil first

you cant polish a turd

WHEN YOU PUT THE NEW FIBER PLATES IN ARE YOU SOAKING THEM IN OIL FIRST ALSO RUB THEM LIGHTLY ON YOUR GARAGE FLOOR TO GET A LITTLE "SCUFF" TO THEM

well i took my mutilated engine out today,and took off the jugs only to have more bad news. the rod is bent. so here is a new dilema...do i put a long rod in it or go back stock.do i fix my crank or buy a new wiesco. after this devistation of destruction all i want now is to make it smoke anything i ride with. a truly dedicated rider knows there is no sense in a tear down with out enhancement. so what i am requesting is info from you guys with screaming banshees. if i must dump my money into it to be able to ride it it must be worth it. the old lady will never understand this but i am sure you guys do. please give me some suggestions on what needs to be done to make it scream like never before. however, i dont want it to lose reliability or make it a pain in the ass to maintain. just the most bang for the buck. all advice would be appreciated but unless yours is the shit you may not be able to help me thank you for listening to my ridiculously long post

the 400 is hooked up with a big bore kit and other mods and he only beats me in the dirt...need shorter swingarm i guess. on asphalt i can pull him but its still close. all 400's aren't as slow as most banshee owners like to think

yes i replaced the bearings fresh 93 octane at 32:1 brand new set of plugs. when i say they were fouling i did not mean gas fouling but more like a sooty black residue. i am pulling the engine out of the frame today and will remove the cylinders to know the extent of the damage. trued and welded...any suggestions on who is best for this. the jetting was from a recomendation from someone on here it seemed to run better at this range and with the 30 it started and idled like never before. what would 20cc domes do for me. i mostly ride woods powerlines and that kind of thing with occasional wide open runs. i am just getting tired of getting beat by my buddies 400ex and running even with my other buddies shee. not to keep running on but would it be better to by a crank already trued and welded or is it cost prohibitive versus having it done to mine thanks for all you input

it was about 60 degrees around fredricksburg va between richmond and washington dc. no mountains but dont know altitude... how lean bigger jets? less air?thanks

so i was running 260 mains stock25 pilots no lid fmf fatties ada racing cool head with 22cc domes (i think) reed spacers with boysen power reeds and stock timing getting beat more than i care to talk about. the 260's were fouling plugs quick, so i jump to 290's 30 pilots 1 1/2 turns out on the airscrew and plus 4 on the timing. it was running good and on a straight away in 5th gear with a nasty noise it stopped got it to the truck and noticed a little oil at the base of a plug checked it and it turned right out (not tight enough i guess) the end was flat the color was chocolate brown and i took it home. when i pulled of the pipe i poured out its contents which was piston fragments and wristpin needles took off the head and the piston was shattered. finally to the question...did the loose plug lean out the cylinder and destroy the piston or was it something else. the piston was a namura cast power piston which my bore guy did not like. are forged better than cast, and since its tore down will a port job give me the extra power i need to compete. thanks in advance...roof

if you are using the stock key set up check the wires that go to that for a broken solder that was my problem