Tim C

Hopefully it's better then the other Polaris 4x4's because they are junk. They are fast and smooth but they are broke all the time.

Did he lube up the bearings when putting them in because if they were dry it wouldn't take long to junk them on start up

If the Raptor is basically stock you should have no trouble beating it with the mods you ordered

I live in Miramichi New Brunswick......Silver lake is a little too far for me to go this year - but I hope to in future

Like olmick said don't expect a big difference in power if any between the DG's and the FMF's. If you go with the Gnarlys you will probably lose some topspeed because they're a midrange pipe but you will definitly gain on the bottom end. The Fatty's will have about the same topend as the DG's and is a very good all around pipe similar to Toomey pipes. If your set on FMF pipes I would go with the Fattys unless your going to MX the bike want bottom end and not concerned with the top end power.

The manifolds for the V-Force reeds don't have the tab in them - your's isn't for V-Force reeds. Can you remove the tab somehow

I made a couple of brackets to mount it and connected the wires. My Banshee is a 1994 so it doesn't have a brake light The R6 light has 3 wires so if you have a brake light you'd hook up all three but without a brake light you only hook up 2 wires. It's a LED light so they say they draw less power then I regular light but I don't know for sure but I haven't had any problems with it

Here's a couple pictures of the R6 tail light

I put a R6 tail light on mine last year - PM me if you want me to send you a picture

Put one in for my intake manifold bolts and worked great. Had the manifold off and on a couple times after and had no problems.

One Industries make kits for alot of different companies. Try Alba Action or K&K they might have what your looking for Links: http://www.albaaction.com/ http://www.kandkatv.com/

I bought a Miller 175 MIG and I love it - It works great, easy to make nice beads and it will weld up to 1/4" thick metal with 1 pass so very seldom would I (or most other hobbiest) ever weld anything thicker then that. All the square tubing for my utility trailer was only 1/8" thick. I never use my stick welder anymore because they are alot slower to weld with and a pain in the ass to use compared to a good MIG.

A good fab/machine shop should be able to do that for you no problem

65mm Cub, welded crank (w/RZ bearing), CPI pipes, 30mm Dial-A-Jet carbs, VForce reeds, Coolhead, PD intake manifold, lightened flywheel, Barnett clutch, Vortex basket, Durablue +4 axle, Elka front shocks, OMF beadlocks etc. etc. Too much money into it for the little bit of time I have to drive it

I have a 350 cub w/21cc domes so I can run pump gas in, it has 30mm carbs CPI pipes VForce reeds etc. I didn't have to spend any extra money to set it up for that just the usual clean up port and a set of domes. It does have a very narrow powerband but I trail ride it, It's a handful because you you never go if it's going to spin or hook up and stand straight up when you get on the throttle but it's a fuckin' rush like nothing else I driven. Lots of throttle and lots of clutching So yes they CAN be trail driven but NO they probably aren't the best but they sure are fun! If I wanted a smooth powerband I would have bought a 4 stroke

Why should he buy this bike then strip it down and buy all new stuff - the bike is set up very well as it is

I'd definitly go with the Duncan Banshee for the sake of an extra $1300. They built some very nice quads. With the mods you listed it would probably cost over $20K to build a bike like that

I had Fattys and a friend has Gnarlys and I found that the Gnarlys make their power at much lower RPM then my Fattys did but my Fattys pulled better on topend.

I wouldn't call an EQ a way to distort a clean signal but a way to adjust it to make it sound the exact way you like it. I can turn my EQ off and have it run just through the deck and it doesn't sound anywhere near as good. Also I find myself adjusting the bass level different from satalite radio to a CD and alot of times from one song to the next because of the amount of bass in songs is always different.

I use an equilizer to to adjust the bass - it has a bass level adjuster so it's very easy to set the bass exactly how you like it........not like having to go through BS in the stereo menu. I have it mounted in-dash right below the deck and it will control 3 amps - front, rear and sub. It acts as a cross-over for the subs also but not not really much of an issue anymore because most amps have Hi-pass and Low-pass filter switch on them now

I've run the Irazr's for almost 2 years now and find they hook up really good an all terrain.......including hard pack dirt

I haven't tried the Knarlys but I love the Irazrs I have - had them almost 2 years now

Trinity Racing call some of their stuff Stage 4 - check out their website: http://www.trinityracing.com/products/yamaha/banshee.html

I've run 21cc dome and advanced timing at sea level on pump gas and had no problems. You will notice a big difference with them mods.

Yes it will