sredish

I might have a really nice set of T5's for sale soon. If you decide to go that route, I'll make you a good deal. Scott

May consider, but depends on where your at and some other things.... but dunno. 02 Banshee Gussetted frame Powdercoating Gorr woods port Fresh top end (first overbore, has mabye 10 hours) Wiseco Pro-Lites Trinity CV 35mm Coolhead-20cc PT Mids VForce Reeds PD timing plate PD Impeller & cover lightened flywheel Dyna ignition Ricky Stator 200w Hella 500s Elka piggy fronts/rezzie rear LSR +2/+1 A-arms LSR rear hubs LSR +1 Stem Durablue +4 adj. axle ASR Heim tie rods Douglas Ultimate Beadlocks Galfer lines PRM bumper/grab bar/full skid DG nerfs EBC Dirt Racer Pro-Flow/UNI Tag T2 bars Moose handguards Billet stator cover K&K quick-change clutch cover

I've dealt with Kara. Extremely nice and helpful. Really helped me put together the seat cover.

What about trading for a set of T5's? Not sure yet, but migt want to trade. BTW, I'll be sending your pckg Fri, priority.

Man, if we get enough peeps, maybe we can talk David into a 2-stroke class. Sid, the swinger should be done by the time I get back.

With 4,700+ posts, I bet he's seen me... ok ok, that's ego talking. Yea, I'll be hitting it up. I'll probably be doing a lot of West races, and some East ones thrown in, depending on location. I'm kind of right in the middle of the two. You can go ahead and request a number off the ATVCCS site and that way it's reserved and you can pay your dues at the first race you attend. Later.

Great, just what I wanted to hear....

In my, and my other's, opinions, the Delta 2 is the best reed system on the market. Some say you won't get the full benefit of them without porting, and that might be true, but you'll get as much out of them on a stock or stock-piped motor as you will with any other reed system, and they'll outperform the others with more flow. We haven't heard much on the Delta 3's. You could search for Vforce and come up with a lot and this was recently discussed in the Product Review area. As far as your problem, it's definitely not a bad idea to check you reeds, they could be causing you to bog out at those rpms. It would've been easy to check when you pulled your carbs, but you'll have to do it again and take a peek. Let us know what you find.

Rocky Mountain is definitely a good place to get it. Also, my dealer gets it for me. They usually have a bottle or two in stock, but if not, they can have it in a day. With the shipping charges, the pirces are the same, I made em match the price. Only once did they not have it in stock, it's almost always there. If your dealer doesn't have it, they can get it out of Tucker or Parts Unlimited. Later.

I'm having trouble thinking of who, but someone makes an aftermarket wiring kit that has everything you need, just replace your harness, add the battery and I'm not sure about the generator/alternator aspect. This topic came up not too long ago and they were discussing it. i'll look around and check back if I find it. Someone might come up with the name before me as well. Scott

Awww damn fellas, I've been outta town for a few days.... still am actually. The rear ITP wheels fit banshee's, blasters, yfz's raptors. They DO NOT fit that weird 3 year era when yamaha changed the rear pattern back in the 80s. Sheerider, I can't get any pictures until I get back, if your still interested, send me a pm and I'll get one as soon as I get back on Fri. Banshee~

Agreed. The Janssen unit is very nice. I run an LSR stem. Roll makes a nice stem, as does Gibson. If I was to buy a new one again, I'd probably go with Janssen, but you really can't go wrong with any of them, maybe shoot for best price. As for the anti-vibe, don't get one without it. If your a taller person, say 5'10 and up, get a +1 for more comfort. Later.

Sounds like the rebuild wasn't done correctly. Sorry to hear your troubles man, it can be a big PITA, but that's just what it sounds like happened. Get a crank and have it installed professionally, then do a proper break in and see how it goes. Or sell it, I'm sick of hearing about how all it does is break.

I don't think it really matters. I'd buy for price on the oversized tanks. Fluidyne makes one now as well and their auto rads are awesome, but they're the priciest I think. I don't imagine you could go wrong with any of them. Scott

What circuit / series? Official GNCC site. Talk to local shops about local xc race circuits. For instance, we have the ATVCCS in East Texas, that I'm a part of. You'll have to ask around to find the local ones tho, I can't help you in IL.

Well look what the cat drug in.... I'd go to a Toomey 2:1 kit, it'll breathe much better than going back to stock, but still give you what you want. Also, I'd stay with the T5's myself. The T6's aren't too bad on a stock bike, but if you decide to port later, then you'll be limited, and I don't personally think the T6s are any better than T5s on a stock machine either, but I'm on not too sure. I just bought a set of chrome T5's as well, and I'll be looking forward to trying them out. That's not a bad idea on just keeping them and getting them chromed. Shouldn't cost you too much and you'd probably be money ahead. Well how's everything else going? Hope all is well. Later.

3.73's will definitely be better for mileage, but if your planning on lifting, keep that in mind when looking at gearing. I have 3.73's but with my 35's, I don't really want to go taller w/o regearing. However, a lof of the newer fords, only came with a certain gear. My F250 would only come with 3.73, couldn't get 410 from the factory with it. Also, it's a mid-03 and not one single problem, same with my dad. As long as the build date was after May '03, you'll be fine, the very early ones were the pieces of shiz.

But of course!

Yea, probably not for what I got the T5's tho, but I should have checked.... Never ran T5's, so we'll see how they feel. Leaving tomorrow early am to fly to Scottsdale AZ for a week. No freaking riding, dammit! I should have my seat cover and maybe the tank by the time I get back. Hopefully the plastic not too far after.

Figure that one out Led??? Boots, yea probably, but I'm gonna wait till I get back and can try some on. Just bought a set of T5's to play with at the dunes. May try em and sell em or keep em for a dune pipe, dunno. At least they're chrome....

Hey, I'm taking donations too. Anyone wanting to give to the Redish Foundation, please email me at [email protected]. It's a tax-free donation so don't be worried. I take paypal, money orders, checks, green, whatever.

I've never seen a dyno on Gnarlies, but they're said to have more low end torque and less top end. I personally have never tried them. You are right with the fatties versus toomeys, they are very similar, and the differences are subtle. the fatties do have a tad more low/mid torque where the toomies have a slight dip. but we're talking babyshit tho, maybe 1hp peak and 1 or 2 ft lbs more with the fatties. The toomeys have more overrev which help them on the top end. I've got my eye on a set of T5s to try out for a little while since I've never ran them for any length of time. I figure I'll switch my pipes out depending on the riding situation. For something to fight the 4 strokers with, either one will probably be fine. More low/mid torque would help in the launch tho. Most races against those machines are lost at the launch. They have so much torque, they jump out ahead and make it hard to catch up. If you can match their launch, then you got it made. Tires and gearing will also help get you there quicker, remember gearing is key in winning drags.

if your not interested in fixing it, that's fine, but if you are, or you want your machine to be square, let us know what exactly is breaking or not running right. that is extremely vague and it's hard for us to know what's going on with that little bit of info. give us some specifics and i guarantee someone here can get you going right.

I'll third that. I had some and got rid of them for my PTs. While I really like my PT's, I loved those Fatties, and that was a wrong decision. Even if I had the Fatties, i'd probably still run the PTs for my racing, but the Fatties are one of the best pipes ever made. Inexpensive and they are an all out great performer, from stock to +4 stroked, they just work. The reason they're so inexpensive is because of the thinner finish, but with a little maintenance, that can be eaasily overcomed. I had mine for well over a year and when I sold them, I 000 steel wooled them and they were like brand freaking new. Should have kept them, in fact, I'm probably gonna buy a replacement set because I liked them that much. And BTW, they come on with a decent low, killer midrange and a nice top end pull that will hang with any T5s or similar pipes. The powerband on the T5's is actually very similar, except the T5s peak a tad higher in the revs, like only 600rpm higher, but not quite as strong, 1 hp less or so. Also, the torque doesn't come on quite as strong, but if you lay the two dyno curves on top of each other, they're almost identical, except the T5s don't quite peak the same and they have a dip in the torque. Whew... that was a lot of typing... sorry.

That hits the nail right on the head. And I'm not commenting on Banchetta or Holyman's posts, but some oils can and will seperate while others won't. In fact, my Castor 927 warns right on the bottle that certain temperatures will cause it to seperate and I've seen it seperate. I should change oils because it's a PITA in the winter. Just like you mentioned Banchetta, when it's cold, it'll puff nasty and run rough for a few till she warms up and it gets mixed good again. I know, and I do shake the machine and tank up to help mix it, but there's always some oil that gets in there first. Anyways, my 2 cents on that, and I know nothing, absolutely nothing about Amsoil, so it's not right for me to make a comment either way. It has to be pretty good shit if someone can go to 100:1 on it with zero ill effects or changes in the way a machine runs.