sredish

Ha... No shit!!

I'm not much of a Mikuni guy when it comes to knowledge and experience, and top that off with a 38mm single carb. So, I'm not sure where exactly you should be at. Just from your plug, I'd say try one size richer main, but 380 is fairly rich. Have you looked for an airleak? I'm not saying that is your problem, but I'd just say do a quick check for air leaks around the intake. If you find nothing, maybe try a 390 or 400 just to see what shee does and feels like. BTW, overall, how do you like the 38mm with your porting? I've always thought about running a 38 if I get some porting and/or a stroker kit, but I was worried about losing the midrange pull. Any opinions on running that carb?

Sweeet!!! What's your bottom dollar??

they're all good and much improved over stock. You can also get your stock shock revalved for a much better improvement. Call Elka Shocks on that. As far as shocks, just get what you can afford, you get what you pay for. Works are inexpensive and much better, Custom Axis are great and more expensive, and Elkas are pricey and supapimp. But they are ALL going to valve it specific to your riding style, application, weight, and so on. So there's not a bad "type" of shock, it's all on price. Searching shocks will lead you to more info.

Yeah, no prob. Just caught me off guard. You'll want the ring to be totally black. If you have the time, you might consider going up on the mains one more size. But honestly, I wouldn't do anything else until you can get a rebuild. Those compression numbers are low. You get that rebuild and throw a coolhead on there with some 21cc domes, and you'll have some new, previously unused power, and it'll probably run cooler. Later.

If you do a search for "dyna" in the "all forums" categorie, you'll see this same post several different times. It's been discussed in detail several times. Later.

This freaking rim that I beat on at LS was bad. We were busting some trails, up and down through the hilly shit. These shitheads were sitting in the bottom of a gulley and we had a big brake check, and this other guy comes bailing over the top of the hill behind me and slams into my rear tire, and it pushed the bead of my rim all the way out. It was like someone took a huge pair of pliers, grabbed the inside bead of the rim and just peeled it back, I could get my hand in between the rim and the tire. Blue's BFH helped beat on that thing. It took some serious coersion, but you should see it, I felt like an artist working the aluminum back into shape, I'll get a pic of the finished product. I'll definitely check into Nac's beadbreaker.

There is another thread in the Repairs/Mods forum that sounds very similar to yours. Overheating, with low compression and can't figure it out. Wait, I just went back to read my other post, and that other post is yours. That's why we don't double post fellas.

what a PITA, we've all been there. I'm personally searching for an air leak on my machine. It runs great, it's just that the main jet is much too rich to be right, but dammit, I can't find an air leak. What is your jetting currently? The TORS eliminator issue could most definitely be giving you trouble, I've seen that happen on several different occasions, where the idle screws weren't adjusted right. I honestly don't have a lot of experience with the TORS elim kits so I don't want to get you running a goose chase, but I would be checking that twice. Good luck and get back when you get done playing in the shop.

Generally speaking, a popping would tell me to look for a lean condition. If your running super rich that plug should be really wet all the way around. What's your compression and what fuel are you running?

oh, maybe that's what I heard. 2" narrower than a banshee's axle, wowzers. Is the LSR your looking at extended, Basicorpse?

First lesson in speed - your rear tires will only spin as fast as the engine will rev. That's where gearing comes in, you'll need to get tires spinning at a faster rpm with the same amount of engine rpm. Next, we need to figure out what gear ratio will give you the necessary gearing to allow your tires to spin the necessary speed at the same rpm. Keep in mind, the higher you gear, the more power you'll need to pull it. A stock shee getting to 100 is much harder than one with pipes and other mods, if a stock shee can get there, it's been so long since I've ridden a stock shee. Well, BenBB just happens to have an Excel sheet with all the figures plugged in, all we need to do is type in the front sprocket, rear sprocket and tire size and it will automatically give you the mph, at a given rpm, and it shows it in 1,000 rpm increments. No banshee owner should be without this file. Click here to download the Excel sheet (props to BenBB and his site for the link). Then play with the tire sizes and sprocket sizes to see what will work best for you. Here is BenBB's site for more info. For example: Front sprocket : 16 Rear sprocket : 40 Rear tire size : 22" This will give you 104mph in 6th gear at 10,000 rpms, given perfect traction, of course. Later.

anything under 100 pounds is rebuild time. Overheating can be caused by one of the following: Lean jetting Bad impeller Clogged radiator No airflow through the radiator Low compression can probably attribute to it by making the engine work harder to do the same amount of work, causing it to heat up. I'd get a rebuild pronto before you screw anything up, then when it's done and your compression is restored, then see if it's still overheating and address it then. While it's apart for the rebuild, put in a new PD impeller and then when putting it back together, fill it up with Engine Ice for a cool 50 degree temp drop. A properly running engine shouldn't overheat, even if it's 105 outside. If it does overheat, there's something going on, maybe minor and it only rears it's head when it's super hot, but when it happens, take the warning signs and do something about it.

I'm not sure, but I don't believe they're the same. You'll probably want to wait to here from someone else, but like I said, think I remember hearing that they're different. Did you try a search?

good thought. the axle must slide in from right to left. then your sprocket hub and lock-nut and all should slide on from the left. if you slid it in from left to right, then your backwards, and nothing will fit they way it's supposed to. here's a pic of my axle. the sprocket hub just slides right on very easy and the lock-nut then tightens it all down.

There's been so many threads on this, i'd need a calculator to figure it. There's a similar thread in exhaust right now, and a search would give you endless amounts of reading.

don't know about the worth due to not being able to get as much for all banshee as you should. but it looks like a pretty clean bike. all it needs is a set of fullbores and you'd have a nice ass machine. there are people who have 7, 8 maybe 9 G's and more who could never get that money back out. just the way it is. it very well may be worth 7,500, but the market for banshees is low and it's hard to sell one usually for any more than 5 unless you have some pretty trick shit.

i'll think about it a little bit. sure you don't have some friends who are f*^king with you? it's got to be going somewhere. check your tranny oil for any sign of premix, i'm sure that wouldn't be it, but just a thought that ran through my head. how about the overflow tubes coming off of the carbs, maybe your floats aren't adjusted properly and it just flows out of the overflow under the shee where you'd never see it, especially when riding. i'll think some more, good luck.

or if there's something wrong with the floats maybe. What about the slides are they synced up good? Are you sure your getting fuel to the carbs? How about the fuel petcock, those are known to clog. They have a little screen on then inside that can clog and starve the motor. I run a inline fuel filter and can visually see if fuel is getting there or not. Is the fuel bad, that could cause it not to want to start (been there done that). Just some thoughts.

should slide right on, sure it's the right hub?

You can get a spray can of carb/choke cleaner at any auto parts, walmart, and other similar stores. There are tons of different brands, but all should work about the same. Some people just use gas, but I like having the spray pressure to get into places.

yeah all that's great, I can kill 10 or so gallons in a weekend myself, but I can go well over 12 miles before needing more fuel. Hell, I can be out in the dunes for 4 hours or so on a full tank. That just doesn't sound right.

i'd be checking for a leak in the petcock or around the carbs.

maybe with the twin turbo thing, but i'd be getting ready for a 6.4 in 3 or 4 years, maybe a little sooner, it is in the works.

That's the first i've heard of a twin-turbo, but they are already getting a 6.4L diesel ready to replace the 6.0. Don't know when that'll take place but within a few years. Yeah, I'd like a twin turbo smoker.