Flyin_Shee

Does anyone make an intake for the 30mm? Is that a rare carb size because I was looking at the other common intakes like Pro Design and they go from 28 to 34mm and some other ones go from 28 to 33. Is passionre a Boss dealer?

I got my engine back together today but found out that my intake is indeed too small for my 30mm carbs. The airbox side doesn't fit onto the carb, so I'm really pissed off about that...considering that now I have to use the stock carbs for a month or two until I get enough extra money to fork over $200 for a new intake. I'm going to be ordering the Stage IV Trinity intake off of eBay for around $180 I believe, but what I'm wondering is if I should get it with the boost bottle opening or without? I've read that the boost bottle barely makes a difference, so would it be worth it to just leave it out? I ride a lot of trails but also love wide open riding and dragging, so losing a bit of low end throttle response isn't that big of a deal.

Thanks guys, is the 165 going to work for my temp? Or should I move up one or two more sizes? I got the gaskets today and will be trying the carbs out on the intake tomorrow (today I guess since it's 1 in the morning). I hope the carbs work on the stock intake, if they don't...can anyone recommend a place where I can order an bigger intake that has VERY quick shipping?? I need this back together by the 20th, and I rarely have time to work on it. Thanks for all the help. Edit: I forgot to mention that I will most likely be running it with the airbox lid off for the better response and air flow, so how many more sizes will this bump me up?

Alright, thanks. I'll be trying that out this week once I get my gaskets in.

I bought 30mm PWK's for my Banshee and am wondering if they will fit on my stock intake? Also, can anybody give me a good guess on what my jetting should be for these carbs running FMF Fatty pipes and Powecore II silencers with a mild port job and it's about 0-30 degrees out at about 1000 ft give or take above sea level.

I think the only real difference between the 2 and 3 are the bolts that hold it together. They changed it because I guess there were issues with the bolts coming out while riding...which obviously wouldn't be a very good thing for your engine.

Got a link to that auction? I might be interested in them...

Regular is higher than premium where you're at? That's messed up...I'd start running premium in my vehicle. Diesel is extremely high here but I haven't checked the prices of race gas around here...either way, it's way too expensive for my type of riding.

It hasn't been honed yet, obviously. I don't know if it's ready for a new bore considering it was rebuilt last fall and I've barely put any hours on it (maybe 5, tops). I didn't check the compression when I took it apart, but it has been running strong and hasn't felt "easy" to kick over. I'll probably end up going out and buying a honer and honing it, will that affect the compression or size at all? I am just paranoid about something going wrong, especially since I really need this running by January and I don't want something happening like a ring snagging on the scratch. I don't know how deep it is or if it's rough because I don't have the cylinders back yet, that pic was sent to me from my friend.

With gas prices now, I'm not paying for anything above 93 octane! I felt like I was getting the deal of a lifetime when I saw 87 octane for $1.65!! I had to drive to the Twin Cities to get that though . Does anyone know of a good way to get carbon deposits off the top of the pistons?

I gave my cylinders to a friend to do some port work on it, and he claims he got mad and somehow put a "small" knick in the cylinder wall. Here's a pic of it, and you should see it near the center of the pic, but is this big enough to cause any problems? He claims it shouldn't be a problem but now I'm paranoid as all hell because I need this running by January and I don't want to have to rebuild it if it gets f'ed up. I have an overbore rebuild kit on hand, but I don't want to have to do that and mess with boring my sleeves.

Can you buy an aftermarket shift star for the Banshee? My '00 is a pain in the ass to shift into neutral and it misses sometimes.

Yea, I'm definately liking the way these carbs look...I hated the TORS on the stock ones, f'in pain in the ass!

Yea, I decided not to do anything about it...it's not that bad at all. Also, is there a good way to get carbon deposits off of th e top of the piston? And what does that signify if carbon is depositing...leaving the top of the piston sorta yellowish-brown? Too rich?

Well my cylinders are being ported this Thursday, so hopefully that'll help some. V-Force reeds might be on the way also, depending on funding and how much time I have left. I noticed that one of my cylinders is a little bit more scratched up than the other, if I hone it will it make a difference in size (as in having to overbore)? It just needs a small honing job, not even close to overbore. Just wondering...

Thanks, any idea on the clip positioning and air screw? Btw- got my cylinders and head beadblasted today, look a lot better than the dull black stock paint...going to polish them up after I get them back from a friend (porting) this weekend.

Is there a place I can send my cylinders to be ported that offers a decent price (200 range) and have it back before January 20th?

I can vow that the combo works AWESOME. A friend of mine ran a combo of ice screws and picks on his Honda 416ex (ported, full exhaust, stage II cam). With it geared as high as possible (w/o ordering special sprockets) he could stand it straight up in 4th gear...now I'm thinking that combo works pretty good .

Thanks...I just need someplace to start off, I noticed that the jet sizes were way different going from stock to an aftermarket carb...so I figured I'd get help from BHQ.

What I used last year was two ice screws in every piece of tread on my Holeshot MX's. Worked AWESOME, I got better traction on the ice than I ever have on dirt or pavement. This year I will be trying that set-up along with 1/2 - 1 inch long studs in the tires, I don't want them too long that I will lose top-end for the radar runs.

What would my jetting be close to with Keihin PWK30 flatside carbs, FMF Fatty Pipes and PowecoreII silencers, airbox lid off and a minor port job?

You'll lose hp w/ larger carbs unless you get some porting and intake mods done... 288636[/snapback] How would you lose HP when adding a bigger carb? Everyone knows the stock carbs on Banshee are way too small as it is and I wouldn't be losing HP, just bottom end until the powerband kicks in and the extra fuel is really needed.

I just got my Keihin 30mm Flatside Carbs tonight and I'm wondering how well they will work with my Banshee. I just have FMF Fatty pipes and FMF Powercore II silencers and I will be running no lid for radar runs.

If you're going to throw away an intake...I'll take it .

Yea, that doesn't sound right...you have it geared down with 18" rear tires, and you can get up to 80? Did you have special gears put in or can your engine get up to 20,000 RPM?