Big Mike NY

Excellent information radar for those of us that did not know.

Hey Sleeper, I am located in Stonybrook, I ride out east a little and I have land upstate 3 hours north of Long Island where the trail riding is great and there are some nice long private roads and a little drag track that I made.. It's getting tough to even go out on the street here in suffolk, the police are writing tickets and impounding bikes left and right! I'd love to check out your ride sometime!

Who did yours Chuckwagon?

Is this for real or a joke?

Haha oh man you guys are too much lol

Where can I find out more information on the serval setup? I have read so many good things about serval but cannot find any specific information on it... Thanks Mike

Thank you for the link I just downloaded the banshee manual!!

<p>I have always had nothing but the best experience with Chuck from All Island ATV, formerly known as Chuckwagon... He is a mastermind when it comes to making power!</p>

The FMF's are the Fatty's...

Sorry for the confusion, the carbs are un-ported...

Thanks for the info guys! I will speak to the builder this week and revisit what we should do with the carbs. The carbs are stock, unported and I am not sure what he did jetting wise but I am going to find out. Sleeper06 I live in Stonybrook, right off Nichols Rd. I bought my Banshee brand new from Alba back in 2003. I am not even sure which FMF's I have but I will look at my bill of sale and find out and report back to you guys. So it does seem like the carbs need to be finessed a bit and a timing plate added...

Happy New Years Fellas, Decent amount of work performed to my 2003 Banshee (mods in signature). When getting moving from a dead stop or just banging gears the bike is very weak on the low end compared to the mid range and top end which is violent! I was told that the FMF pipe expansion chambers where to big and that smaller expansion chambers on a different pipe would remedy the problem? Any input is appreciated! FYI everything on the bike bike is in top working condition from the plugs to the carbs to the clutch. Advice, comments? Mike

I bent my Lonestar axle on my 250R. I sent it to LS and the warrantied it no questions asked! Their customer service is top notch!! All you have to do is pay shipping.

http://www.ls1tech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=690974

My 2 cents... HP doesn't mean anything. To many vaiables to consider. Sure when you bench race, the setup with the most HP SHOULD win. My TRX has beaten bikes with much more HP than what it makes. So has my Banshee. I've been riding 2 strokes since 1988 so I am confident in my riding skills. That's key, as mentioned by many people in this topic. I would really focus on getting your traction, shifting and launching technique down tight. That will be the deciding factor. If he misses one gear and you don't, the race is over, you win! If he spins the tires and you don't, you may take the lead and stay out front. His bike may be running like shit that particular day and your's is running like a champ. I always like to root for the underdog! Whoop his as Bro!

I live on the Island, exit 62. Someone shoot me an email next time you go riding, I'd love to come out and play!! ammarca@optonline.net Mike

I have one on my TRX and it's awesome! Works fantastic and it's a great quality piece! I highly recommend it! FYI, anything from Eddie Sanders is of high quality!

Is that shift star modification strictly for drag racing or can it be used for all around riding?

Ask any engine builder and they will all tell you rpms kill cranks, not compression! At some point HP does start to come into play.

Agreed Dante. In my experience with my Honda, and the dozens of 700+ HP motors I've had over the years, rpms kill cranks, not compression, not HP.

Guys, tell me where and how you think I became defensive? I valued everyone's advice in this post except those who started ripping on the builder. I didn't ask "Hey, what do you think of my builder". FYI, this was from an email I had sent Jim as Passion Engines about a year ago or so. Hi, My name is Mike. I own a 2003 Banshee with the following mods: Cool head (pump gas domes) V-Force Reeds ProFlow intake / K&N FMF pipes and silencer Barnett clutch I'm insterested in getting a little more out of the bike now that I have gotten used to the power. Without going crazy doing a big cc stroker motor, what mods can I do to make a little more power (like porting or high compression domes). What do you suggest I do? How much will it cost and what kind of power can I expect? Thank you, Mike... -- Jim's intial response: Mike it just depends on what you want to set your budget at. We can get a ton of power for not a tremendous amount of cash. With your mods I can get you to around 70 hp with porting, bore job, piston sets, domes, gaskets ,and o-rings for around $625.00+shipping... a real bargain in the world of HP...would require 100 octane fuel though.....Jim My reply: Thanks for the reply Jim! Running race gas is no problem at all. I have to run 108 octane in my Honda Fourtrax so I can share the gas now with both bikes. Can I run 108 instead of 100? Also, this setup you are referring to, do I need to true and weld the stock cranks? Will that help the stock cranks last? I have read that the stock cranks are not that strong. Mike Jim's Reply: Chances are your existing crank is still in pretty good shape, and yes, true and weld is benficial. Stock Yamaha cranks are a fine crank in general if you use good synthetic oil and t&w on hopped up cylinders. Should probably replace outer bearings when you do this procedure...they wear at 10 times the rate the inner bearings do. 108 is even a better choice on fuel...Jim

Forget it, you guys totally mis interpreted what the point of my post was and you are all incorrect for thinking I was objecting with you. I don't post much here and this is the exact reason why. Some of you guys have some chip on your shoulder... I'll keep my questions to myself next time and just "lurk" the board. I'm done here.

OK, first of all I came on here to hear some constructive criticism about my new setup, not hear how my builder is a jerkoff and doesn't know what he's talking about. My mechanic happens to be one of the areas top bike mechanics. I'm NOT saying he is a Banshee guru like some people on here CLAIM to be. My mechanic does build high HP 2 strokes and street bikes. So stop questioning his ability. This is one of the Pro Mod bikes he built. If the guy builds 7 second drag bikes, I think that validates his ability to build 2 stoke motors. So enough with the mechanic already. http://www.radiox.fm/photopages/chuckwagon/burnout!.jpg locogato11283, why do you say people are suggesting things I don't want to hear? Because I said I'm not worried about welding the stock crank? Come on man, gimme a break. What I was looking to hear from the members here is yes, the timing plate will work. I was also thinking that maybe the carbs need a better jetting, which someone mentioned. The bike does seem to smoke at idle and during throttle. I was thinking that that might be one of the culptrits. I have been drag racing cars for 9 years now and I currently own a 2100 HP Outlaw Camaro. I have been around high HP motors and I know for a fact that when you are dealing with a new combo, it takes a little finesse and patience to get the bugs worked out. I don't think there is any major issues with my combo, I think it's just a matter of getting the bugs worked out. I am going to install the timing plate and have the carbs looked at. I will take it from there... Thanks again for posting up your feedback.

Not sweating the bottom end. I purchased the bike new in 2003, and it has maybe 100 hours total. Hey, if it blows up, no problem, more of an excuse for me to rebuild it bigger and better!!!! I'm going to give the timing plate a try and 1 less tooth on the front sprocket and see how that works out. If she is still suffering, then I will consider bigger carbs.

Stock crank, un-welded. I'm not concerned about the crank. My mechanic said welding the stock cranks is a good idea if you jump a lot with the bike. The free revving engine while in mid air plus the hit when you touch down is primarily what causes the stock cranks to come apart. Besides I'm not running that crazy of compression. I'm not saying the bottom end is dead, it's just not as strong as the mid range and top end. Yes, I got a trails/woods port, which I was under the impression was supposed to give me a beefier bottom end, but from what I've read and heard the bottom end on Banshee's are really a dead issue. Listen, I'm not unhappy with my new motor, not at all. The bitch rips! I just want to see if there is anything I can do to wake her up on the bottom end. Thank you for all your input so far!