If you go with +4, I don't think you will desire to go more or less (unless you get your jugs drag ported).
The downside is that you want to make sure you use at least 92-93 octane and that the gas is fresh. I wouldn't use gas that has been sitting over 2 months.
Oh, and seeing that you are tearing down your motor...I would suggesting getting your crank welded if it is not.
I have seen lots of ported 350's make 75+ on the dyno. If Duncan means unported, then probably. But regardless, they are not "number 1" at everything. I wouldn't even count them in the top 10 (unless its for MX setups).
Most people start of with +4 advance.
What I mean is that you get a "longer burn time" before the gas exit the exhaust ports...so more of the fuel/air is burned.
Basically what happens is that the spark ignites the air/fuel mix sooner (prior to the piston reaching TDC) utilitzing more of the internal explosion (combustion) which creates more power.
I would move the "welding of the crank" up with timing advance and mill head.
Also, where are you hearing that you need to put a grease zerk in the rear carrier? Personally, I don't think it does any good as the bearings are sealed (the grease won't even get to the bearnings). I would suggest just replacing the bearings every 2-3 years or so (it takes about 1 hour).
I would get them in the sand first and see how well they do. Try a few launches in 2nd and it should tell you pretty quickly if you need to change your gearing. I personally bet that your 14 tooth will be fine since a 13/41 works best with 20" tires and your mods.
I have been running the 22x11x8's 9 paddle Extreme and love them. I did change my gearing to 13/43 to compensate for the taller tire and extra hookup (over the 20x10x10's I had), but they are great.
You can get special pistons that are designed for your +4 stroker crank so you don't have to mess will plates and extra gaskets. They cost a little more than the typical piston, but its more stealthy.
Why do you say that?
If you have bumped up your compression AND advanced your timing, it is good to get your crank welded due to the extra load being put on the crank.
BansheeJerry, no way that I know if. If it starts running bad...its probably too late. I am having my welded right now and it was starting to separate (only 25 thousands), yet the motor "appeared" to be fine.
When a crank goes, metal finds it way into weird places. Before you go to the trouble of replacing your top end, have your cases inspected. If the crank separated (before it blew) and wore into the cases, you will probably need new cases.