smartsshee22

I agree, ALBA has some shitty customer service.

Here is a picture of my DMC Alien setup and I love them. I ride in Glamis and after I installed the V-Force 3 reeds it woke the pipes up!!

Thanks 79 that was exactly what I was looking for. The one wire is blue though not green, but I see what you are referring to so I will work that tonight. Thanks again.

The main reason that I am getting rid of it was because i got a new rear brake pedal and it did not have the little bracket on it for the brake light switch linkage. i guess that I could wire it up like the older shees. The only concern was the yellow wire coming off the stator is tapped into the yellow wire running back to the tailight. On the older shees it goes straight into the dimmer switch. The shee is torn down right now for the off season so I can go through it and get rid of all the gremlins so I cant start it to experiment with the lighting wiring. I was thinking about putting on an led tailight as well. Yes, i do have a multimeter.

Sorry, my bust got the two confused. I do not want the brake light function to work. I still want the taillight to stay on though when the lights are on. Sorry bout that.

I have the harness unwrapped and exposed now. I have a solid blue, solid black and a solid yellow coming off the taillight. Blue runs all the way to the dimmer switch, yellow runs into the related connectors for the lever switches and then taps into a yellow/red wire which runs to the dimmer switch. Yellow from the stator is also tapped into that series of yellow wires. Black of course is ground. Which circuit/wiring do I eliminate to just run the brake light and not the taillight? Thanks again for the assistance.

I am in the process of going through my wiring harness on a 2002 shee and I would like to remove the wiring that makes the brake light come on when the pedal and levers are pressed. I have already removed the brake switches from the front and rear brake levers. I just need to remove the excess wires now in the harness. I have done searches, but all I have found is the wiring diagrams for the older shees. My taillight also has three wires instead of the two listed in those diagrams. My cdi and electronics are all relocated up front behind the radiator and I am trying to shorten the harness as well so a really good wiring diagram for the 2002 would be great. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks.

I just bought the Trinity 2 into 1 35mm carb setup for my mostly stock motor. I have DMC Alien pipes on it right now and I will just be running a K&N pod off the carb. Any suggestions on where to start on jetting for Glamis? Thanks.

Cascade does it! Check out this pic! Ken

Whatever I can get. I am trying to use that money towards my new pipes for my new Cheetah motor!!

Awesome thanks Jim. I am still getting the motor built so I am not sure what kind of port it is going to have. I will call Trinity Mon and get the details. Thanks for the help. Ken

Hey Hey now. I did not mean for this post to cause so much tension in here...I am not setting this Shee up for Drag only, I am making it an all around duner, hillclimber and drag Shee all together. I think that I am starting to lean more towards the Rockets now more than the T-5's or Trinity Stage IV. Loco, you know who sells the Rockets and what they run? Thanks again everyone. Ken

I just posted some DMC Alien pipes on Ebay if anyone is interested. No dings, just normal discoloration. They come with everything including the K&N. I am looking to possibly going with the Rockets to compliment my new 400cc ported Cheetah motor!!! http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAP...me=STRK:MESE:IT Ken

HMMM...I have just been doing some research on them. How is the access to the plugs and fuel shutoff? Looks tight. I guess that does not matter though. That is a pretty good looking pipe setup. What is the price tag on those? Thanks for all your help. I want the most out of this new motor. I had the DMC Aliens on the old motor setup. Those are for the birds now that this new one is getting built!!

Trinity suggests running their pipes of course. I am not sure about the drag pipes. I want to keep it dunable also.

I just sent my motor to Trinity to get built. I am getting the 400cc ported Cheetah kit done. I will be running 35mm Keihin carbs, Dyna FS ignition V-Force 3 cages, and their clutch kit. I was having a debate on which pipes to run. I want to run the T-5's but I hear that they will restrict flow to the Cheetah motor compared to the Trinity Stage IV pipes. Any thoughts on the matter? Thanks, Ken

Thanks for all the help everyone!! Squish, yes the heat shields are from the F-18 engines. Jim, the reducers are 2.00 from the carbs to 2.50 into 2.5in modified tailpipe tips. That would be awesome for the pipe ones as mine are always melting. Banshee76179, thanks for posting the pics. Ken

I have some pics for David from Noss Machine and BDBANSHEE. David thank you for all of the support in getting my banshee back up and running. The leak is fixed and Shee is faster than ever with those bigger domes. No leaks anymore either. BDBANSHEE, thank you for all the tips in helping me build my pod system. I want to post pics for all to see and I dont know how. Help please or give me E-mail addresses so I can send you pics. Thanks again Ken

I have a boost bottle on mine only because it came with the intake setup I have. I felt a difference because I did the intakes and V-force reeds at the same time, but I do not think the bottle itself makes a seat in the pants difference. Mainly for looks. Some advice for you duners running the bottle, take the boost bottle grommets off and coat the grommets with silicone and re-install it. Something I do so I do not get sand in the motor. Ken

I second that one LOCO. Dave has the best customer service around and he gets the parts to you really fast. I highly recommend him over any other cool head machinist. Ken

Dave is definetly the man. I had a problem with my cool head leaking into the cylinders and he has offered the best advice and customer service. I had to send mine into him less than a week ago to make sure it was not the head and I just got it back today. Very fast turnaround. So far my problem is solved. Thanks Dave. Ken

Ok just checked on the pilot. I am running a 45 pilot right now. Am I good?

Awesome. Thank you all for the help. I put some 160's in both carb and I will see how shee does. I will keep you all posted. I am not sure what the pilots are at. I have not touched them since I bought the carbs brand new. What do they normally come with? Ken

OK boys...here are the mods help me with the ballpark for jetting please. - .20 over with Wiseco pro lite pistons - Hot Rod crank, trued and welded - NOSS Machnie cool head w/19CC domes - 28pwk Kiehin carbs w/140 Mains in it now - K&N pod filter setup w/out airbox - Prodesign intake w/boost bottle - V-force 2 reeds - DMC Alien Pipes It has 140 mains inn it right now. Is it too lean? I run at Glamis all the time so I am not sure on elevation. Thanks for the help. Ken

David, Thanks. I am using the Acorn nuts now and I was thinking that maybe they were bottoming out. Maybe washers would help. I will try the sealant too and see if that works. Maybe I need to get those acorn nuts and washers from ya along with some new O-rings if I take this back apart. Yes, the head had to be pryed off after the leakage into the cylinders. I have not started the motor after I repacked the head. I noticed it leaking around the studs after I filled it back up with coolant so I am not sure if it is leaking into the cylinders again or not. Thanks for your help!! Ken Ken, Coolant leaking up past the studs can usually be fixed with some RTV on the threads before installing the nuts. I also have acorn nuts and copper washers if you need them. (I wasn't including them two years ago). The stock studs sometimes tend to leak because the diameter of the body of the stud is smaller than the major diameter of the threads of the stud. Leakage into the cylinders is a whole other problem. My first suspicion would be a burr or ding in one of the domes or the base plate. Did the head have to be pryed off? When you reassembled with new orings did you still have the leakage into the cylinders or only around the studs? -David 308804[/snapback]