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B8ES vs. BR8ES


Chip M

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I have been buying the NGK B8ES plugs for my quad. I see some post where people are using the BR8ES plugs. I was told they are a resistor plug. Do they run differently than the standard plug? Also noticed today in my manual it says to run my premix at 24:1 if using the yamalube-R and 20:1 using a Castrol 2 stoke oil. I started my new topend out on 32:1 and was thinking that 20:1 as per manual was more than I have read anyone using. Any thoughts?

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I have been buying the NGK B8ES plugs for my quad. I see some post where people are using the BR8ES plugs. I was told they are a resistor plug. Do they run differently than the standard plug? Also noticed today in my manual it says to run my premix at 24:1 if using the yamalube-R and 20:1 using a Castrol 2 stoke oil. I started my new topend out on 32:1 and was thinking that 20:1 as per manual was more than I have read anyone using. Any thoughts?

 

Type of plug depends on if you are running a resistor plug cap. unscrew it from the plug wire and test it with a ohm meter. if it reads a few k ohms of resistance (dont remember the exact reading) its a resister cap so you run a non resistor plug and vise versa.

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32:1 is perfect. not too much and not too less either.a good safe spot. you are suppose to use the same ratio and premix for the break in and that you are going to use for the life of the top end. keep it at 32:1 and use the same premix oil. i use maxima castrol 927 at a 32:1 ratio. as for the plugs i would stick with br8es

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The "R" or resistor plug is only for RF interference you dont run a radio on your shee do you?If not that dont matter either is fine the part thats important is the heat range.

 

NGK is the only plug manufacturer thats backwards on their heat ranges.Instead of going down in the numbers like everyone else does for colder heat ranges they go up.BR8ES is a hotter plug than a BR9ES.The reason for a colder plug would be to keep detonation down with higher compression ratios.

 

As for premix stay 32.1 going to a 20.1 and so on will lean you out and require jetting changes to be made.

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The "R" or resistor plug is only for RF interference you dont run a radio on your shee do you?If not that dont matter either is fine the part thats important is the heat range.

 

man im not even gonna touch that one. :rotflmao:

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agreed but he was running b8es plugs.... :confused: i dont see why he would need to use anything different then a standard br8es? maybe im wrong? chipm what is your setup and mods?

 

possibly he had the wrong ones? or some where after so many years someone switched shit out. have to look it up to be sure but the earlier banshees used resister caps and b8es plugs and the later ones used non resistor caps and br8es plugs. either way there should be a resistor in there since the plug wire is solid core. the plug wires on your car are resistor core. :)

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A B"R" plug is a resistor type plug that incorporates an internal resistor to help absorb the back EMF or collapsing voltage that is typical of an ignition system, from getting back into the wiring system and causing electrical noise. Back EMF not only causes audio system noise but causing electrical system failures. However, the plug caps are already protected so doubling this up is only working against you.

 

The VERY reason you want to avoid the "R" plug is that the Banshee has a very limited ignition system anyway and the very resistor in the plug that helps retard electrical noise issues also reduced effective voltage to the business end of the spark plug. Remember V=IR so any added resistance in the current path WILL cause a reduction in spark energy in the cylinder. In short, use non-resistor type plugs and nothing else in the Banshee unless other stated for aftermarket components.

 

 

Brandon

Mull Engineering

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