Flyin_Shee

How much shipped for the front brakes to 54026?

I'll be ordering the impeller and gear from Mull. Thanks guys. Going to stop by the dealer today and see if they have the bearing in stock so I can order everything else off eBay.

Is it critical to replace the clutch cover gasket or does it usually stay in good condition when removing the cover?

What is all needed when doing a water pump rebuild? I've noticed several different kits include different amounts of seals/gaskets. Also, the only kit I've found that includes the bearing only includes the water pump gasket and oil seal. Would this be sufficient?

I've seen a review done in a magazine or online, it wasn't Dirtwheels (hate the magazine), and they seemed to like the entire conversion to tracks and skis for the snow. It was done on a Banshee and they said while it still accelerated fast it drastically reduced the top speed, which I'm not sure if I'd want to be doing 80 mph on a set of those tracks anyway. The kit I believe was around a couple thousand dollars and it seemed to be worth the money IF you plan on riding your quad that much during the winter and if you even get snow, as here in Wisconsin we've been having crap for winters the past couple years.

Suspension, suspension, tires, steering stabilizer, handlebars, nerf bars, killswitch, and suspension. That's what MX is all about. If your suspension isn't set up right, you can't get any traction, and your hands are getting knocked off the handlebars you aren't going to win a race. I went out onto the track with a stock YFZ (besides, nerf bars, killswitch, handlebars, Dr. D slip-on, Pro-Flow intake and the airbox lid off) and kept up with and beat all highly modified quads, including a KFX400 that was completely set up for MX (had to be at least 4 grand into the suspension alone) and the Yoshimura 450 kit that Doug Gust ran in his Z400. I would've won both races had my suspension been properly set up (didn't touch my suspension) so I was bottoming out on every large jump (cleared everything). Ended up getting a DNF on the second heat because I kept hurting my wrist from bottoming out (fractured my left wrist a few years ago) so I got off the track after I thought I broke it again landing. This was only my second time racing and the first time was 2 years ago on a stock 400EX on a horrible sandy MX track. So I like I said, suspension is what you need to focus on. A stock 450 has PLENTY of power to get you around the track, but if your suspension can't handle it you could be pumping out all the horsepower in the world and you still wouldn't be able to win that race. I would say a good revalve for the fronts for some +2 a-arms and a revalve and linkage for the rear should get you going until you gain some experience in racing. And as for that '06, I'd say go for it, especially if you could knock the price down a little bit. I got my '05 SE for $6950 back when it was brand new.

I believe the carbs make quite a big difference and at around $200 you can't really pass them up. So much easier to work on than the stock carbs and the throttle seemed quite a big easier to push than before. I'd get the carbs and reeds at the same time.

That's perfectly fine, it's your money and you can spend it on whatever you want to spend it on. But if I'm going to be racing and I need to have my suspension set up as best as possible, you bet I'm going to spend the money to have the right suspension adjustments. The more I can adjust things, the better. Just because you don't understand how it works and how to properly set it up, doesn't mean it's a bad things.

To each his own I guess. You'll find that talking to people who are involved in racing and if you understand how your suspension works and what is best for you, you'll find that the more adjustments available the better the ride will be for you. But some people are okay with just having something that is at least better than stock, and that's where the bare minimum shocks come into play that barely have any adjustment and have no resivours. And talking about how other companies followed suit just to not seem so far behind, well that's good that Elka is pushing the other companies to follow. If no company did that we'd still be in the dinosaur age of suspension and frame components. Think back to the 80's and 90's, the aftermarket scene wasn't nearly as big as it is now. There are so many better high quality parts out there now because companies have been coming out with new innovations that are pushing other companies to try and do better. This in return keeps giving us better and better products which will make our machines perform so much better. This is exactly why there are so many quads out there and they keep getting better as the years go by. Companies are pushing each other to compete with one another and give us a better machine. Just imagine if we'd still be stuck with the 300EX style dinosaur of a 4-stroke engine? Innovation and pushing to put out a better product led to the 400EX, which led to the other 400's and then onto the 450's. Just my two cents on that whole issue, whew.

I was talking about adding length to the other side of the a-arm. It would be keeping the same stock a-arm length to the outside, just the frame would be made skinnier thus needing a little added length on the inside of the a-arm. Just like how the KFX450R and aftermarket frames do it. It should not affect the overall length of the quad at all. Why on Earth would you want to get Blaster pegs? I'm going to rig up some YFZ pegs sometime here in the future, they are much better than any Blaster or Banshee peg.

Why would you try to jump a 110ft triple with your shocks on the softest setting? Hmm, I wonder why your shocks bottomed out...

Super adjustable Elkas? They have just as many adjustments as all the other manufactuers, including your PEP's. They just came out with a new shock that has, what, one more adjustment than the other guys? So are you saying that even YFZ450 shocks are too much?

This is a Walsh Race Craft frame for the CRF. Notice how the KFX450R frame and this frame have the same front end design. There has to be a reason why aftermarket frames would have the railing set up like that.

Sounds like the carbs really didn't come pre-jetted for your application. When I bought my PWK30's they said the same thing but it was far from being right. Sounds like you need to adjust the idle screws and pilot jets. Find out your pilot jet size, main jet size, and where the clip on the needle is at. Also, what's your temp and elevation?

Well, you take your compression adjustment only shocks and I'll stick with my more complicated shock with more adjustments. I'd rather have more than enough adjustments than not enough. This way I can have a shock more properly set up for my riding than one that only has compression. They have all those adjustments for a reason, for different riding the shocks require different settings. It's just like your jetting, you're basically saying you'd rather have a carb that could only have the main jet adjusted. Sure everything else would be off when the temperature, elevation, or modifications change but it'd be good enough for you. Not trying to start anything, just saying. JIMO.

One question: What would the twin batteries and charging system be for? Does it come with a stereo system? :shrug: You can tell this guy works at a car dealership.

Ah why would you let an R get to that kind of condition? I'll take it off your hands for real cheap, looks like it's in pretty rough shape. Those things should be cherished and taken care of, remember, you own a piece of ATV history.

I'd recommend GTThunder or DeRisi Racing (if he does Banshee rear shocks, not sure but he should).

The only REAL advantage to the long travel shocks is that it's easier for the shock builder to valve it to your specific needs. You aren't gaining that much in travel, in fact with a properly set up standard travel front end or rear end you have nearly the same amount of travel. I would be more interested in all the adjustments the shock offers and what type of spring it uses.

So has anyone experimented with changing the front end of the Banshee? I know having the bottom rails where the lower a-arms mount skinnier helps handing quite a bit and having a-arms that are foward more than backwards are better too. Would it be possible to cut out the bottom rails, make it skinnier (like the new KFX450R, I'll even post up a couple of pics), then you could possibly fabricate the lower a-arm to be longer and still fit in the stock shock position. I know aftermarket frames used this idea and it worked quite well.

Right now I'm running the 55 pilot 165 main and the needle clip is set at the 3rd notch down I believe. I've got the air screw at 1.5 turns out and it seems to be running excellent except for on top end where I'm sure I need to drop down some more on the mains. I just dropped down from 175's and it runs so much better, but it's still not good enough. The temps here are ranging from 40 to 60 degrees so I'm thinking the 160 mains should be just fine for the colder temps. I'd rather be running a little rich than lean. The only problem is my YFZ450 is using my other 160 main jet right now, haha, guess I'll have to see if it can handle running on the stock main. I'm loving these carbs though, so much easier to work on than the stock carbs and they were way cheaper than I'd ever expect for aftermarket carbs - especially two of them!

Yea I figured my mains are way too big. The thing is with the pilots at 52 it ran perfect from idle to about 1/4-1/2 throttle when it was around 75-85 degrees and when the temperature dropped to around 55 it would only run good at 1/4 throttle. That leads me to think I need to go bigger on the pilot now that the temperatures are staying low. The clip is in the center if I can remember correctly, I'm going to throw those 55 pilots in and try 165 mains and see how it runs and go from there. Any suggestions on what the air screws should be at? That's where I really don't know what I should be at, I'm coming from working on 4-strokes and I know the air screw is different from the fuel screw so I don't know how many turns out I should be at.

Anyone? I just got some 55 pilots so I'll probably try that this weekend and lowering the mains. What should my air screw be at? I'm thinking the needle should be fine as that's the throttle range where it runs the best.

The front end looks good. I didn't think any major frame modification was needed like the other guys were saying. I remember seeing someone else doing this conversion and didn't recall them cutting any section of the frame. If I could find a complete YFZ front end for cheap I'd definately set my Banshee up with it, I can't justify thousands of dollars on my Banshee's suspension as I don't use the suspension to it's fullest potential - that's what the YFZ is for.

Well I took it out for another spin today (had to move it out of the garage to put the YFZ in so I can work on that). The temperature has dropped considerably, it's around 45-55 degrees out compared to 75-85 degrees. This time I had to use the choke to start it and once it was warmed up it still had a little trouble idling despite turning the idle screws up (I think I need to try turning them a little more, didn't turn them too much but at least now it will actually idle without dieing). Taking it up and down the strip in my yard I noticed that it ran better on the mains but it still stumbled a bit so I'm sure my jetting was way too rich before but I still need to drop down a size or two. One thing that's bothering me now is that at the very start of the throttle position it seems to hesitate/stumble but once I blip the throttle/give it more it really screams until I get to the mains where it stumbles again, but not as bad as before. So this leads me to believe that the pilot/Air screw needs to be adjusted and the mains need to drop a few sizes also. Could anyone help me on what you think I should do with the pilot/air screw? It seemed to run perfect before on low end when the temps were hot but now that the temps are colder it needs the choke to start but it feels like it's rich on low-end.