Should I keep running my engine?

[captain_ron80]

Hey there guys. This is my first post on this new to me site. I have been reading through it and there is a ton of good info on here... but unfortunately I wasn't able to find any threads relating to a problem that I am facing. So I'm at the dunes and during the ride my air filter some how worked its way loose in the stock airbox, which has no lid. I'm not sure how long it was like that or how much sand may have gotten sucked in. There was some in the intake boot. It was still running fine at that point. I had it towed back to camp. I plan on doing a full overhaul this winter. My question is in your opinions will I be alright taking it out for a couple more rides before the overhaul? What am I looking at as far as failures? I don't mind replacing some bearings and rings but I don't want to fry a piston or worse... Wiseco's are expensive!

 

Thanks in advance.

 

Ron

Edited August 11, 2008 by captain_ron80

[_Hex*]

hmm just take off the intake boots and inspect the intake before turning it on again. i had this happen to me but with a worse case i was running the twin filters so it was bare carb :s. it could be very dangerous tho because u cant really tell just by looking at the intake, i kept running my bike like that for somewhile like a year nothing happened but every case is differnt when i took the motor apart for its first time i looked at the crank and it had pits on it like like if u fire tiny rocks at aluminum same thing.

lucklily my bike has been nothing short of awesome to me two years since that rebuild and im still on the same top end. also note i have literally ran the shit out of my bike.

 

but safe thing to do is teardown. you could always cause damage to a pistorn which in turn leads to head and you know ive seen skirts distroyed and cranks disfigured beyond repair on stock motors not even ported big motors. so its risky

[_Hex*]

well what you could do to avoid teardown is just take the topend off if you are going to bore and flush the crankcase with gas.

 

well if you need parts

call 1818-500-7263 sandtoyz unlimted every part imaginable for banshee instock

[dragbanshee]

Hey there guys. This is my first post on this new to me site. I have been reading through it and there is a ton of good info on here... but unfortunately I wasn't able to find any threads relating to a problem that I am facing. So I'm at the dunes and during the ride my air filter some how worked its way loose in the stock airbox, which has no lid. I'm not sure how long it was like that or how much sand may have gotten sucked in. There was some in the intake boot. It was still running fine at that point. I had it towed back to camp. I plan on doing a full overhaul this winter. My question is in your opinions will I be alright taking it out for a couple more rides before the overhaul? What am I looking at as far as failures? I don't mind replacing some bearings and rings but I don't want to fry a piston or worse... Wiseco's are expensive!

 

Thanks in advance.

 

Ron

pistons and juggs is what would suffer the most damage, but not sure how much you sucked in there , prolly enough to scar it.

[jbooker82]

I don't mind replacing some bearings and rings but I don't want to fry a piston or worse... Wiseco's are expensive!

 

Thanks in advance.

 

Ron

 

It cost more to have a crank rebuilt with new berrings than it does to do a top end with new pistons. Rebuilt crank and a new hotrods crank are about the same price.

 

josh

[mercury65]

it can nock out the top end quick i was using a uni filter on the stock push down filter set up. and the foam casket rolled up and i did not know it nor could i see it, my bike was new had only 6 weekends on it and wiped out my top end. when i tore it down i saw all the sand in my intake boots then i starting inspecting things thats when i found it. if u do remove the jugs your rings will no longer be seated so get new rings and hone the jugs. if there is sand in the bottom end you can here it if you rotate the crank. and you wont get it all out if there is. so if the bottom end dont sound smooth then you can put a 4 mill and spacer in it and use stock pin hight pistons.

[captain_ron80]

Thanks for the responses thus far. So it sounds like I won't be able to change the crank bearings on my own. I wasn't aware of that. If that is the case then I was toying with the idea of doing a 4mm crank at some point. Maybe this is that point. I think what I'll do for now is pull the head off and take a look at the top end. I welcome more input! Thanks.

 

Ron

Edited August 11, 2008 by captain_ron80

[xXBlessedWithDeathXx]

Thanks for the responses thus far. So it sounds like I won't be able to change the crank bearings on my own. I wasn't aware of that. If that is the case then I was toying with the idea of doing a 4mm crank at some point. Maybe this is that point. I think what I'll do for now is pull the head off and take a look at the top end. I welcome more input! Thanks.

 

Ron

 

if you need crank bearings send me a PM. i have a set (new unused) i`ll let go for cheep. if it were me i would pull the jugs and clean her out. a air hose will work with getting the sand out of the crank but look for play in the rods. not side to side but up and down. i would expect the worst but its usually not that bad. i would also put the air hose to the cylinders and boots to get that sand out. dont forget to clean the carbs. you never know. maybe you can get away with a hone if the cylinder walls are not up to par.

[captain_ron80]

if you need crank bearings send me a PM. i have a set (new unused) i`ll let go for cheep. if it were me i would pull the jugs and clean her out. a air hose will work with getting the sand out of the crank but look for play in the rods. not side to side but up and down. i would expect the worst but its usually not that bad. i would also put the air hose to the cylinders and boots to get that sand out. dont forget to clean the carbs. you never know. maybe you can get away with a hone if the cylinder walls are not up to par.

 

Alright blessed thanks... I may be getting in touch. Can I do the crank bearings myself? I'm handy enough to get into my clymers manual and figure it out but I need to make sure that I don't need any special tools. If it's too in depth i'd rather just pay someone to do it. I don't have the time to get in too deep.

[xXBlessedWithDeathXx]

Alright blessed thanks... I may be getting in touch. Can I do the crank bearings myself? I'm handy enough to get into my clymers manual and figure it out but I need to make sure that I don't need any special tools. If it's too in depth i'd rather just pay someone to do it. I don't have the time to get in too deep.

 

 

they need to be pressed on. it is more expensive to rebuild then to get a new crank but if all your replacing is the 2 end bearings it wouldnt be much at all. you may not have to go that rout.

[captain_ron80]

they need to be pressed on. it is more expensive to rebuild then to get a new crank but if all your replacing is the 2 end bearings it wouldnt be much at all. you may not have to go that rout.

 

Will turning the crank by hand and feeling it/listening to it determine whether I need to just the 2 end bearings or just replace the crank? If I try and take it to a shop they will more than likely just try and recommend a rebuild/sell me a new one.

[xXBlessedWithDeathXx]

Will turning the crank by hand and feeling it/listening to it determine whether I need to just the 2 end bearings or just replace the crank? If I try and take it to a shop they will more than likely just try and recommend a rebuild/sell me a new one.

 

you need to pull off the cylinders and look for play in the rods. up and down play. they will move side to side a little. if you hear what could be sand or dirt in the crank thats not good. you might be able to get away with spraying it with air to get it all out. i personally wouldnt go to a shop. they will screw you with funds for something you should learn to do if you plan on keeping that banshee.

[xXBlessedWithDeathXx]

if the cylinder walls are good i personally wouldnt worry about the crank unless you hear crunchy / gritty sounds wile turning the flywheel.

[captain_ron80]

you need to pull off the cylinders and look for play in the rods. up and down play. they will move side to side a little. if you hear what could be sand or dirt in the crank thats not good. you might be able to get away with spraying it with air to get it all out. i personally wouldnt go to a shop. they will screw you with funds for something you should learn to do if you plan on keeping that banshee.

 

 

if the cylinder walls are good i personally wouldnt worry about the crank unless you hear crunchy / gritty sounds wile turning the flywheel.

 

 

Did you mean to say you wouldn't suggest going to a shop?

 

You're right. I probably just need to dive in myself. I have all winter... right? I was able to redo the top end and do my first round of upgrades without hassle.

[xXBlessedWithDeathXx]

Did you mean to say you wouldn't suggest going to a shop?

 

You're right. I probably just need to dive in myself. I have all winter... right? I was able to redo the top end and do my first round of upgrades without hassle.

 

 

yes, dont go to a shop lol. they will take all your money and want more. BHQ has more then enough members to help you. just watch out for that MJ fellow. hes a little funny at times lol.