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Posted (edited)
Snop...

Apparently he doesn't want experience or credible advice...he'd rather just go the free route, and find out NOTHING is free.

 

So...here's my advice. get the correct tool that threads into the inside of the flywheel, don't use a 3 jaw puller, it will bend the flywheel.

Pullers are 10 bucks....make sure you clean the threads on the flywheel, they will be rusty and dirty.

 

Was that too much to weed through??

 

 

Credible advice? I was told that I should install a timing plate over a free key swap, and that is was

hard to install??? What you get half the time on theis forum is people just telling you how much

better and faster their shit is compared to others. I just asked a simple question. Thats all... I'm

not saying a timing plate isnt better, I'm not saying cast is better than billet. Someone gives me a

free plate, fuck I'll install it... I got a free key to bump my timing to +4 and though hell... I'll try it,

why not, and wondered what the best procedure would be. That's all...

:banghead:

 

I dont mind the .02 advice, but dont try and bullshit me or try to insult me because I'm not a

fucking expert on Banshee's...

Edited by mdhc500
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Posted
This wont happen... My key has been specially fabricated from titanium alloy...

 

 

IF The key does shear.. it will most likely ruin the flywheel shaft of the crank too.. Then the free key just turned into a 400.00 key. Up to you man. its your bike and your choice.

Posted
Ok... Hard to install??? I have had the flywheel off my stock motor, and putting a key in that

little groove and re-isntalling the flywheel is not hard by any means...

 

 

Just curious and not tryin to be a Richard but.... then why ask for the best procedure if its "not hard by any means..."?

Posted (edited)
Just curious and not tryin to be a Richard but.... then why ask for the best procedure if its "not hard by any means..."?

 

Becuase I have read enough of these threads to know that if yoh have 5 guys do the same job, you

will get 5 different ways to do it... I was wondering what people did/do/have done, as in using loctite,

some guys may throw it together, torque it, warm the bike up and run it, then re-torque it... Besides

I'm new to a lot of this stuff, and I'm no gear head and I know the way I do stuff may not be the

right or the best way... I just get annoyed when people start right off the by telling you what your

doing is wrong or stupid...

 

Plus I have read elsewhere the +7 keys/improper installation and torque settings are the

biggest offenders. But since I dont like fixing shit, this god damn thread will assure that

I will not be installing the stupid key!

Edited by mdhc500
Posted

You've read enough of these threads...but still...oh hell, never mind.

 

You're not using it...good for you. The Chariot Billet timing plate is a better quality product, however...it's 15 bucks more.

I'll be picking one up before too long...:)

Posted
You've read enough of these threads...but still...oh hell, never mind.

 

You're not using it...good for you. The Chariot Billet timing plate is a better quality product, however...it's 15 bucks more.

I'll be picking one up before too long...:)

 

What are you doing with your old plate? HA HA!

Posted

I ran a +4 woodruff key for about 3 years with absolutely no problems. But...I did replace it with an adjustable timing plate during a recent rebuild. :shrug:

Posted

i also have a key. had it for over a tear now with no problems. i believe pabansheemat has one also and thats on a cheetah. i will eventually get a plate but not any time soon unless its dirt cheep. when you install it, it goes in the slot in a Z pattern. once i put it in i never looked at it again.

Posted
Amazing...

Guys spend all this money on your bikes and cheap out on a plate vs. a key...

 

go figure.

 

That's a 492 stock swinger coal hill bike Dave, easy now :wink:

Posted

the key is made to be soft so it shears instead of galling up your pricey crank ,the plate is the best method to advance the timing ,id mod the stock one if your tight o n cash .definitly be sure to use a yamaha puller and not a universal 3 jaw auto puller like a lot of boneheads try ,i have seen way to many good flywheels totally ruined by customers this way .

Posted

I also use a 2 jaw puller. i had to brake the bottom half of the case to get it in but it works good. i just cant get water in the stator or it acts up untill its dry. i understand what you guys are saying but all i heard was talk about the key sheering off. i never met anyone saying it happened to them. its a good mod and it works fine. yes, i`ll eventually have a plate but not now. its not necessary. i also use yamaha puller. when i got the key i didnt know a plate was made but if i did i would have got that.

Posted

I didn't mind the rs plate, but know I run a stock plate and program my cdi for the timing advance. When I put the flywheel back on, I usually heat the hub a bit with the torch then slide it on. Thats a little trick I learned from Dan at Patriot Racing.

Posted
That's a 492 stock swinger coal hill bike Dave, easy now :wink:
I forgot You Guys are all fuckin experts. I never heard of the +4 keys shearing off. However I did hear of +7 keys shearing. I have a +4 on the Banshee for 3 years and one on my kfx 700 for 4 years. No problems with either, however I agree the plate is a better design. For the asshole who said I have a stock swinger your wrong. Is +2 3/4 which happens to be great on the trails. O yea, I'm still climbing bigger and steeper hills then anyone ive scene on here.
Posted

Holy shit Matt, never thought you had that kick your ass attitude in ya... :beer:

 

These guys would have to see your bike on these hills in person.... first they would have to try and climb those hills, then see your bike scream up them. Not to mention it's not all just the bike either. Someone's gotta take the pilot seat

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