YTRY4 Posted July 23, 2008 Report Posted July 23, 2008 Hey guys, quick question, when you have the handbreak locked on the shee wont rev passed 2000rpm? Im guessing this is to warm up the motor and to stop over reving. Problem is: After the crash the bike wont rev passed the limit even with the break off? There is one cable that is loose near the bars (i'll get a pic when im home) and if i push it it works for a couple of seconds. Can i just cut this cable and join it then forget about the limiter? cheers Quote
shee4speed Posted July 23, 2008 Report Posted July 23, 2008 Wreck? here we go with another tors issue.LOL. Remove the tors and move on. Quote
BellicoseBanshee Posted July 23, 2008 Report Posted July 23, 2008 Hey guys,quick question, when you have the handbreak locked on the shee wont rev passed 2000rpm? Im guessing this is to warm up the motor and to stop over reving. Problem is: After the crash the bike wont rev passed the limit even with the break off? There is one cable that is loose near the bars (i'll get a pic when im home) and if i push it it works for a couple of seconds. Can i just cut this cable and join it then forget about the limiter? cheers The parking brake switch is wired directly to the CDI and has nothing to do with TORS. Disconnect the switch (connection is located between the fuel tank and the radiator) and see if that solves the problem... Quote
Snopczynski Posted July 23, 2008 Report Posted July 23, 2008 The parking brake switch is wired directly to the CDI and has nothing to do with TORS. Disconnect the switch (connection is located between the fuel tank and the radiator) and see if that solves the problem... Word! 2x Quote
YTRY4 Posted July 23, 2008 Author Report Posted July 23, 2008 The parking brake switch is wired directly to the CDI and has nothing to do with TORS. Disconnect the switch (connection is located between the fuel tank and the radiator) and see if that solves the problem... Thanks BellicoseBanshee :biggrin: you where rite. I can now rev again! Can someone explain TORS to me? Quote
350power Posted July 23, 2008 Report Posted July 23, 2008 (edited) this same shit happened to me. it let met start again and ride for a day but then it stoped working again. i have no ideal whats wrong with it now. so im gonna just take it to the shop and pay big money for the fix and why im there i think ill have them put on some t5 tommeys. sounds good to me. Edited July 23, 2008 by 350power Quote
BellicoseBanshee Posted July 23, 2008 Report Posted July 23, 2008 Thanks BellicoseBanshee :biggrin: you where rite. I can now rev again!Can someone explain TORS to me? TORS is a safety feature that, when functioning correctly, kills the engine when a stuck throttle condition is detected. The system has a control unit, two carburetor switches, and a throttle switch. Disconnecting the switches and the control unit eliminates the electrical portion and the 'TORS Elimination Kit' is used to replace the carburetor switch boxes and provide a means to adjust the idle. The kit contains caps, idle screws, and throttle cable. I never had any issues with my system malfunctioning before I removed it form my bike, but many people attribute some electrical problems to the TORS system. Bottom line, if you maintain your throttle system, TORS is really not necessary. If/when you upgrade to bigger/different carbs, the system cannot be used anyways... :woot: Stock carbs + TORS = safe Big motor + big carbs + no TORS = safe and less junk in the way Quote
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