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Posted

Alright guys, looking for a little bit of help here. What I have is a 96 Banshee that I have owned for about 6 years and ridden the hell out of it but it's been kept up nicely. Two years ago I was riding it in the snow and in one area it got deep (about 9") and I had to rev the hell out of it to keep from getting stuck. I wound up overheating it to the point that it melted a piston due to the high revs and low air movement through the radiator (I know it was stupid!). So anyway I took it apart and it sat that way till last month when I got new .030 over wiseco pistons and had my cylinders bored out. When I got it all back together it started right up but boggs when you try to give it throttle. The banshee has stock pipes, stock carbs with the TORS crap still on it, bored out .030 like I said with fresh pistons and rings, has aftermarket reeds on it, K&N filter in the stock air box, new plugs and so on. When I first started I thought it would be an issue with the carbs because it sat for so long but once I took them apart I found that they were nice and clean but I took them all apart anyway removed the needles and jets and cleaned it all out. The jets appeared to be all stock. It was hard to read but It said 220 I think and had the needle clip in the third position which is about right for a stock set up according to the owner's manual. Put fresh plugs on it and it still runs the same. The carb slides appear to be going up and down in sinc ok. So here are the questions I have:

 

Is this the typical TORS issue that you see when you have a problem with that? If so is there a way to disable the TORS system so I can verify that is the issue before I go buy a TORS elimination kit?

 

Another thing too I read something about the parking brake switch being a problem on these sometimes but where is it located? I looked at the clutch pedestal area where the parking brake cable to the back brake comes out of and I don't see anything there.... The wiring diagrams on line do not show it to be a part of the TORS system.

 

What other things besides TORS could be causing this?

 

Sorry to be so long winded but figured that a good description of what happened and how the Banshee is equipped might get me a better answer. Any ideas you can share from your experience would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance!!!

Posted

Is it unrideable? Sound like TORS or parking break swith to me. Just unplug the parking brake switch (wires that go to the clutch handle) and the TORS (black box under the left front fender area). No need to spend any money to unplug the TORS, only to get rid of the ugly carb tops. Also make sure the choke tube is in place.

Posted

J-Madd

 

Yeah, as soon as you try to let the clutch out it dies. Has not enough RPMs or torque it seems like. Sits there and idles fine till you try to take off. It will rev up partially probably about 1/8 throttle but if you try to rev it any more than that it boggs and dies if you keep your thumb in it. I'll look for the plugs you mentioned and try to unplug them and shee what it does. Thanks for the info!

 

05 Banshee

 

Yes, it's only like $60 bucks so I am going to wind up doing it anyway if for no other reason just to get rid of the hunks of metal on top of the carbs. I just want to diagnose it and get it running first though and figure out the problem. Thanks.

Posted
do you have the slides in the right carbs? thats what it sounds like to me. on the slide one side is cut. you have to have the cut part facing the air filter.

 

I'll check to make sure but I took the carbs apart one at a time and did not take the second one apart till the first one was back together. So they should not be swapped but it's worth looking at it to make sure. Thanks for the tip and I'll let you know what I come up with.

Posted
Is it unrideable? Sound like TORS or parking break swith to me. Just unplug the parking brake switch (wires that go to the clutch handle) and the TORS (black box under the left front fender area). No need to spend any money to unplug the TORS, only to get rid of the ugly carb tops. Also make sure the choke tube is in place.

 

 

J-Madd, where is the parking switch located that you're talking about and did they all come equipped with it? I looked at the clutch lever area where the parking brake cable to the back brake comes out of and I don't see anything there.... The wiring diagrams on line do not show it to be a part of the TORS system either. The only wires running up there go to the engine kill switch and the headlight switch. At the clutch lever housing there are no wires going to it anywhere that I can see. I unhooked the plug to the throttle switch, the TORS box and the wires going to the carbs with no difference in running. Still runs but boggs. Let me know what you think.

Posted

Hey Brutis,

 

Choke tube in place? J-Madd suggested it earlier... (Little black hose connecting the two carbs)

Also check for air leaks around the carbs/boots/cross-over tubes.

 

Any 'sneezing" before it dies?

Posted
J-Madd, where is the parking switch located that you're talking about and did they all come equipped with it? I looked at the clutch lever area where the parking brake cable to the back brake comes out of and I don't see anything there.... The wiring diagrams on line do not show it to be a part of the TORS system either. The only wires running up there go to the engine kill switch and the headlight switch. At the clutch lever housing there are no wires going to it anywhere that I can see. I unhooked the plug to the throttle switch, the TORS box and the wires going to the carbs with no difference in running. Still runs but boggs. Let me know what you think.

Your model year might not have the parking brake switch. If it does, it is on the clutch perch. The switch has a connector behind the radiator and is wired directly to the CDI. It has nothing to do with TORS...

 

If applicable, disconnect the switch behind the radiator and then buy a new clutch perch to get rid of all the junk.

 

The CDI will not let the engine rev much past idle when the parking brake is set.

Posted
Hey Brutis,

 

Choke tube in place? J-Madd suggested it earlier... (Little black hose connecting the two carbs)

Also check for air leaks around the carbs/boots/cross-over tubes.

 

Any 'sneezing" before it dies?

 

 

Yes, I did check and it has the choke tube in place and it does not do any sneezing before it dies. Just sits there idling fine (maybe a little on the low side) when you try to rev it up the RPMS come up some (eigth to quarter throttle) but if you go to wide open throttle it immediately boggs and starts to die. If you let off the throttle it will catch it self and continue to run otherwise it dies. I also checked for air leaks and cracks and no dice with that either. The boots/tubes are in good shape and shooting starting fluid all around it did not change the rpms any. This thing has me scratching my head. I checked for a restriction in the exhaust last night too and it's all nice and clear on both sides. Swaped out the reeds and made no difference. Thanks for your help, it is appreciated man. I'll get to the bottom of it eventually. I work on stuff all the time but this is the first time I've had something kick my ass like this.

  • Like 1
Posted
Your model year might not have the parking brake switch. If it does, it is on the clutch perch. The switch has a connector behind the radiator and is wired directly to the CDI. It has nothing to do with TORS...

 

If applicable, disconnect the switch behind the radiator and then buy a new clutch perch to get rid of all the junk.

 

The CDI will not let the engine rev much past idle when the parking brake is set.

 

 

I honestly think mine is one that does not have it because I don't see it on there. I took the whole thing apart last night and the only thing I found was a small rubber plug about three eighths of an inch around on the side. I suspect that would be where the wires would come out if I had it. Thanks for the help!

 

Anyone else have a 96 Model Year Banshee on here that could verify if theirs has a parking brake switch or not???

Posted

It is fixed guys!!!! :biggrin: Runs like a bat out of hell again!!!! :evil: Something built a nest in my f-n exhaust right in the expansion chambers. The sad part is that I actually blew the pipes out with compressed air before i put them on and it seemed to have good flow through them. Figured out that once you got more CFMs of air flow through them it would push this big glob of s@*t up and to the small part of the expansion chanber and not allow it to breathe like it should. Still smoked nice out of the exhaust and everything just fine but was not as loud as it should normally be. Just grasping at straws and found it. I had got a little piece out the other night and thought that would be the fixed but did not realize that there was a piece in there in total size bigger than my fist that would move and allow air flow so you thought you got it all and then move and plug it off almost completely the next minute. Spent about 15 min per side with a coat hanger and compressed air fishing the crap out of there. Looked like carpet backing or jute that is in cars. Some f-n mouse gathered this shit somewhere and packed it all in my pipes while it was apart for rebuilding..... Odd ball deal but thought I would let you know what I found so that next time someone has an issue this might be something to keep in mind. Thanks to everyone for their suggestions and ideas. I appreciate the help!

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