solid motor mounts

[400rednEX]

i'm having some problems with the engine moving too much under acceleration and making the chain pop and jump, and the chain is tight so it isn't that. would solid bushings for the lower motor mounts be a good solution for this or do they cause too much vibration and other problems to be worth it. i could try new factory bushings in them too if that would solve it. is there anything in between? this is a duner \ dragger not a drag only machine. also, is there a trick to removing the front and rear engine mount bushings or do you just have to pound on them to get them out.

[BigRed350x]

Do you have the rubber isolators on opposite sides, front and rear? The stock engine mounts are pretty good at holding everything where it needs to be, as long as something else isn't out of whack. What do you have done to your bike? Most aftermarket chassis have solid lower mounts, don't see why its not worth a try. I'd try new stock parts before welding on your frame and doing anything too crazy. Get new isolators, new bushings, etc and see how it goes.

 

-jared

[xXBlessedWithDeathXx]

if your motor shakes that much i would say your crank is not true. if i were you i would look into that before you do damage.

[400rednEX]

Do you have the rubber isolators on opposite sides, front and rear? The stock engine mounts are pretty good at holding everything where it needs to be, as long as something else isn't out of whack. What do you have done to your bike? Most aftermarket chassis have solid lower mounts, don't see why its not worth a try. I'd try new stock parts before welding on your frame and doing anything too crazy. Get new isolators, new bushings, etc and see how it goes.

 

-jared

i saw on the expanded picture in the clymer that the isolators are supposed to be like that, mine were both on the front mount. maybe that would help. i was going to get the solid aluminum inserts for the lower strut mounts instead of welding on the frame. maybe ill just try new bushings in them, or solid in one end and new bushings in the other. the motor doesn't shake that much and i have a newer crank that was trued and welded by f.a.s.t., the problem is the jumping and popping when i hammer on it in second and the paddles hook hard. my mods are in my sig. jared, have you removed the front and rear mount bushings? they seem like theyre in there good. thanks for the replies.

Edited June 29, 2008 by 400rednEX

[Bansh-eman]

check the teeth on your sprokets, my bike did that back n the day and i had bent the tips of the teeth and it allowed the chain to skip. Dont use aluminum sprokets if you have been, stick with steel

[400rednEX]

my front is getting a little worn, but not too bad. i'm going to get a new one though.

[BigRed350x]

i saw on the expanded picture in the clymer that the isolators are supposed to be like that, mine were both on the front mount. maybe that would help. i was going to get the solid aluminum inserts for the lower strut mounts instead of welding on the frame. maybe ill just try new bushings in them, or solid in one end and new bushings in the other. the motor doesn't shake that much and i have a newer crank that was trued and welded by f.a.s.t., the problem is the jumping and popping when i hammer on it in second and the paddles hook hard. my mods are in my sig. jared, have you removed the front and rear mount bushings? they seem like theyre in there good. thanks for the replies.

Yes, I have removed them. But I was in a machine shop and we just used our small hydraulic press and pushed them out. I've never done it besides that time. I would think you could do it at home if you hold the engine solid on something and tap them out with s rubber mallet and some sort of tool to push on them. I don't know though, never done it at home.

[J-Madd]

It's a pain in the ass to remove the stock inserts (without a press), but it can be done in a vise. I used the vise like a press, pressing a bolt or socket through to push out the insert.

[400rednEX]

maybe ill just try half solid mounts and half new rubber mounts on the lower torque arms first since its such a pain.

[jbooker82]

when I worked at the salvage yard we would have to cut the bolts off of leaf springs some times. We would just melt or burn the rubber bushing out and use a hammer and scew driver to get the out side steel sleeve out of the leaf spring. Then press new bushings in to the leaf springs with the vice.

[400rednEX]

yeah, ive done that too to springs, but i don't want to screw up the aluminum cases.

[jbooker82]

yeah, ive done that too to springs, but i don't want to screw up the aluminum cases.

 

I wouldnt do that ethire with aluminum cases. I thouht maybe it would work for the bottom mounts.

 

josh

[400rednEX]

does anyone run those solid aluminum bushings in their lower mounts?