New Duner Build

[phx450]

I finished the 4mil hill shooter. And after thousands i want to build a duner banshee now. I sold the YFZ450 and plan to build a nice duner.

 

My first goal is reliability. I have the 4mil that i get to work on and tinker with. I'm looking for suggestions from the guys who have built reliable bikes for the dunes. I say this becuase many a banshee are not reliable!

 

I'm thinking 370 long rod, Toomey pipes, V-force Reeds and intakes, possibly some pwk's. +2+1 arms and +2 axle, Not sure on the swinger length. At most +2.

 

I'd like to ad 3 lights 2 in the stock with flood and 1 handle bar spot. so a stator rewind is due.

 

Shoot me some ideas!

[okbeast]

Kevin Herr EXTREME dune port, you won't be upset, and a +2 swinger might not be enough

 

And look through this;

 

http://www.bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?...p;hl=dune+build

Edited May 23, 2008 by okbeast

[Wildcardracing]

Kevin Herr EXTREME dune port, you won't be upset, and a +2 swinger might not be enough

 

And look through this;

 

http://www.bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?...p;hl=dune+build

umm, he allready has a hopped up hillshooter...I don't think an aggressive ported bike is what he's looking for.

The long rod is a great idea for reliability,I would build it for as much low to mid power as possible on pump gas so it's cheap to ride. A nice aggressive trail port or even a mild dune port with a descent midrange pipe and some 28mm flatslides with pods. Shoot for 150psi compression and do +4 timing. A stock length or +2 swingarm should do fine ad a gforce axle and some nice +2 +1 a arms and works or elkas depending on budget. Do your DC conversion for the lighting. Throw on some nice v-blade paddles and let er rip. Should be a real nice all around dune bike. Then you can use your other one for racing the hill.

[burleybanshee]

I built a dune bike and can't afford the hillshooter, thats next. If you have the money do another 4mil. The low end grunt compared to stock is real nice and much easier to ride around the dunes. If you do a 4mil, stay with a mild dune port and mid pipes like t5's, trinity's. A lot less shifting and it will pull its self out of a bog a lot of times. This is real big when you are riding with a bunch of 4-pokes that tractor their way and slow down in front of you alot of the times, just because they can. The 28 to 30 range carbs if not 4mil, 33-35 pwk if 4mil.

 

+2+1 a-arms and a g-force axle make all the difference in the world. If you do a 4mil, then do a +4 swinger, if not a +2. Thing about putting +2+1 a-arms, is, to keep the geometery of the bike correct you should lengthen the swinger unless you are flat track/woods race.

 

20x10x10 tires are the way to go, no matter what the tire is. The 10" rim with little sidewall lets you slide the ass end around with not that much effort. Ran the haulers that size for 10 years on my other banshee's and loved them, eight paddles. Switched to 21x12x8 to do some hill shooting and drags as well. lost a lot of the play sliding around but picked up alot more in straight line performance, also depends on air pressure in the tires. If you can afford elkas or similiar brands get them, takes alot of the chop out of the handle bars and you can ride so much longer. The dune editions are a lot softer and nice but not the best for big air due to the valving. Anit-vib steering stem helps reduce fatigue, if you got the 300-350 to drop on one.

 

Front dune tires are needed but look cool and the dual rib sand stars turn real nice. On drag bike the smoothes are nice and light weight but not the best for hard carving.

 

A dune bike is going to weigh more than a hill shooter or drag bike if it has all the bells and whistles, but you can sky a well outfitted dune bike all day and not break anything. Plus you are not exhausted from trying to hang on all day, espically at a tore up sand location like pismo or other areas that get tore up from all the rails and trucks.

 

I say it weighs more due to added material for wider and longer a-arms, swinger, anti-vibe, remote or piggyback res, and the chrome moly material over the thinner stock metals or aluminum.

[okbeast]

A dune bike's a little different then a hillshooter. If he wants to ride trails then get a trail port. If he wants to ride dunes get a dune port. Extreme doesn't mean it's all top-end, it just means if he's not a pussy and likes to go fast then he'll have fun with it if set up right.

[slc_hillshooter]

A dune bike's a little different then a hillshooter. If he wants to ride trails then get a trail port. If he wants to ride dunes get a dune port. Extreme doesn't mean it's all top-end, it just means if he's not a pussy and likes to go fast then he'll have fun with it if set up right.

 

 

I built a duner for a buddy in 2004. He has a lightened stock frame poweder coated. Stock a-arms chrome.

 

+4 LSR swingarm. JJ&A aluminum hillshooter Axle.

 

The motor was completely stock as far as port timing so I added a +4 stroker with 115 rods and 795 pistons. A spacer plate brought the port timing into 196 degrees which in my mind is perfect for duner type bikes. I cleaned up the exhaust knifed the transfers and matched the cases.

 

CPI pipes, 34mm mikuni's with powerjets.

 

This bike has not had the head off it since 2004. Probably one of the cleanest and most reliable duners out there. Far too often do I see people build duners thinking shitty pipes or lower port timing makes it more reliable. Port timing should always be matched with what the pipe is designed to do.

[kc kustoms]

for pipes i would like to sugest paul turner midrange pipes i have a set with fatboy silensers and i love them i wouldnt go with another pipe. they work well in the treeshots, good in the trail and great for the occasional drag racing.

[Toybreaker]

Leave the ports stock.

Go with FMF fatties or T-6's

TORS removal

K&N in a stock air box with the K&N lid (All you ever have to service is the lid!)

Tweak the stock reed cages or V-force

Spend all your money in suspension.

You'll be happy with it.

 

My banshee isn't the fastest in my group but they are now very reliable.

[camatv]

stock ports? WTF! t-6's are you kidding me!! paulturner midrange ON A DUNE MOTOR whatever!!

 

 

i have a 350cc stock motor with big ports ( drag port) 35mm pwk's modded reeds w 2 stage boyesens, very very true crank and welded light flywheel, +2 arms STOCK front shocks, big front smoothies, 11 paddle extreme straight paddle cool head, t-5's its an ABSOLUTE blast to ride its VERY VERY stable the stock axle with extended wheels is plenty wide enough and keeps the weight down, the 350cc motor if built corectly will run for a LONG time. this particular motor is about 3 1/2 years old and see's sand on almost a weekly basis, its dragged for fun 90% of the time it has plenty of bottom for trails and tree shots its a BLAST ont he big dunes.. i am also thinking of switching it to alky.. cooler motor and runs even harder..

 

the stock shocks with +2 arms end up being very soft intially and take lil bumps and hits great.

 

i run a +6 i dont just wheelie around but if i want to it will come up easily,,, but is plenty stable in long whoop sections at speeds more than 25mph. if you want easier wheelies a +4 or 2 over is great..

 

look at how YOU ride what do you like to do? step the sides of dunes? tight tight tight trails? long winding traisl at higher speeds? BIG dune jumpin? and go from there

 

EVERYONE that has rode the bike loves it its got plenty of zip to actually be fun if you want a boring bottom end grunt bike buy a fuggin 400ex.. and go get stuck in the tree shots witht he rest of those turds..

 

you obviously like the way the banshee blasts on power on the top end.. or you wouldnt have sold the boring 4 poke.. why kill it with turdy trail pipes or a woods setup in the dunes?

[camatv]

i actually built it for my girlfriend to ride and have fun on its been a blast and shee loves it.

[lilmegill727]

yo i agree with the other guy, get some pt mids and a trail port or mild dune port.

[dajogejr]

4 mil cub, keep the compression reasonable, timing reasonable...it'll run all day long.

[rubberneck]

4 mil cub, keep the compression reasonable, timing reasonable...it'll run all day long.

 

 

I cant say how enough about how happy I am with my set up. 4mil cub, timing +4. Shearer smallbores, 39PWK's My compression tested out a bit on the high side at 190, but i dont plan on changing it. Great so far for duning. I also geared my bike pretty low at 13/41 with 72 RO 9 paddle ultralites, and it works great for general riding. the low gearing allows me to handle the tight stuff and still be able to keep it up on the pipe, and if I want to go fast just start grabbing gears. I have +2+1 A-ARMS, works shocks, +2 roundhouse swingarm, +4 durablue axle and it handles great. I also just installed some yfz450 front calipers and that is an excellent upgrade.

[camatv]

just rember if you want a boring mild running bike build it close to stock if you like having some fun and can RIDE then pump it up. a 70-80hp banshee is a blast on the dunes..

 

if you think those "mid range " ,,,, pipes are fun just rember that when i pass you in a wheelie..

[rubberneck]

just rember if you want a boring mild running bike build it close to stock if you like having some fun and can RIDE then pump it up. a 70-80hp banshee is a blast on the dunes..

 

if you think those "mid range " ,,,, pipes are fun just rember that when i pass you in a wheelie..

 

 

LOL.