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Posted
Clip in second from top:

It feels a bit more awake now in the middle range, wheelies to 4th gear then it loses pull and 5th and 6th gear feels a bit long...I

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Posted
did you run a compression test?

No I don

Posted
gearing? tire size? stock trans?

All stock, what do you think about the right side exhausts producing less heat and pressure?

Posted
Ummm, your not ever supposed to change a bunch of things at once. You always set mains, then needles, then pilot circuit. The needles will affect the way a bike runs alot. Whoever told you they are for temperature change is a fucking idiot. If you have oil in the silencers the needles are rich.

Yeah, I remember hearing about starting with main, then needle, then pilot but in all fuzz I rushed it and since I suspected I was rich all over I did it all at once...when you say needle will affect the run do you mean clip position or another leaner needle? And I think it was a keihin chart I saw something about the clip position and extreme temperatures like sub zero->rise clip

Posted
If you have oil in the silencers the needles are rich.

 

Since I raised the clip one notch to leanen the needle the right silencer cleaned up and looks really nicely tanned and the left side is still a bit wet...but the left side is the one that produces nice pressure and heat from the exhausts.

The right side that looks nice aren

Posted

If your xhaust ports are raised from the porting the comp. will be lower. Maybe new plugs? Plug cap? Reeds seating fully? Air leaks?

 

Clip position and needle size effect running ability. I think from memory your needles are close for twins. So just adjust your clip position.

 

Chances are you will never get the bottom end of a smaller bore carb. I also think it is too much carb for the top. Your pipes will only pull aroud 8600-8700 rpm.

Posted (edited)
Here study this web page. It will help you with your Keihin Jetting

DRI Keihin Jetting Tech Page LINK

That

Edited by huskyohilux
Posted
Don't be afraid of the stock carbs. They will make good power. They will have more low end than the 35's. Just make sure your main jet is at least 340 and work down if needed.

 

 

I

Posted

I just put 37 pj's on my stock bore/stroke/cyl shee, has Duncan midrange porting and ptr pipes. and pyramid reed cage.

 

Just went up from 34's I wanted some more and got it. Screams on top now.

 

Jetting for the 34's was 165 main 58 pilot mid clip

 

jetting for the 37 is 180 main 58 pilot, 1 up from the bottom

 

Also running a airbox with proflow K&N

 

I dont understand why everyone uses such small carbs. Moving up really woke this thing up. It was fast before it just moved the power around to where i wanted.

Posted
I just put 37 pj's on my stock bore/stroke/cyl shee, has Duncan midrange porting and ptr pipes. and pyramid reed cage.

 

Just went up from 34's I wanted some more and got it. Screams on top now.

 

Jetting for the 34's was 165 main 58 pilot mid clip

 

jetting for the 37 is 180 main 58 pilot, 1 up from the bottom

 

Also running a airbox with proflow K&N

 

I dont understand why everyone uses such small carbs. Moving up really woke this thing up. It was fast before it just moved the power around to where i wanted.

 

Everyone uses small carbs cause when you dyno test a motor with huge carbs like a 35mm pwk and the tq and hp curve look like this _______________________________________/ until 8000 rpm. Then once the motor hits 10,000 rpm the tq and hp curve looks like this ----------------------------------------------------\.

 

If you run a nice optimum size carb then you get a good hp and tq curve across the board, and the velocity on the top stays strong and you dont kill your top end. Too big of a carb willl make you lose topend power, as well as bottom end power.

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