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Posted

hi all,

 

i still cant get my banshee started. it gets a spark, but it pops and wont start. i did a top and bottom end rebuild. i put a +4 crank and had a dune port. i have the tors removed and i also had my stock carbs bored to 27.5 mm. i put my timing plate to +4 and it wont start. i set it back to 0 and the same thing happens. i have my pick up gap set to .015.

Posted

Make sure the key is not sheared, or that the flywheel is not loose. I have seen that with a flywheel where the keyway as wallered (sp?) out; but not noticeable to the eye. Just enough to throw the timing off. Changed the flywheel and haven't had a problem since.

Posted

what should the pick up gap be? some people here say .020 or .019, and .015. others say they use a match book, which is .012. my book does not say anything about it. thanks

Posted
what should the pick up gap be? some people here say .020 or .019, and .015. others say they use a match book, which is .012. my book does not say anything about it. thanks

 

 

i would like to know the same. what the gap is suppose to be? every manual that i look at doesn't say anything about it. would .005"-.010" be fine?

Posted

the closest you can get it without it hitting the flywheel the better, but you dont want it to be sooo close that it could get jarred into the flywheel. mine is set by a match book and its way out there at almost .025 but my spark is fine, and the Ricky Stator screw are POS so I'm not fuking with it and stripping that bitch out

Posted

damn you guys weren t kidding. i took off the flywheel and sure enough the key fell out. i reseated it and she fired up on the first kick. thanks for all the help.

Posted
would it make a difference in running, if the gap was .020" versus .005"? i should just get it as close as possible then, without it hitting the flywheel?

0.005 is too close! At high RPM things flex & expand. That's why you need that "operational clearance".

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