Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted
An RZ350 fork has a similar feature and they are direct bolt-in parts on a Banshee. The only down side to the RZ350 forks is that the bearings in the fingers are less than stellar (more of a bushing than anything else). However, IMO, they are still better than OEM Banshee forks.

 

 

This is good info. I just happen to know where an RZ bottom end is. I might go make an offer on it and see if I can get the forks out of it. Thanks for the knowledge Firehead greatly appreciated.

So to summarize, for kick ass shifting (short of an override) I should get the shift drum with the bearing on it like the picture above. Some RZ shift forks, and use my modded shift star/pro-shift kit. I see that Jeff from FAST mods the shift shafts. is this a good idea with my shift star/shift kit, or is it too much. I dont want to do too many mods and go backwards if you know what I mean. Thanks Phil

  • Replies 44
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted
This is good info. I just happen to know where an RZ bottom end is. I might go make an offer on it and see if I can get the forks out of it. Thanks for the knowledge Firehead greatly appreciated.

So to summarize, for kick ass shifting (short of an override) I should get the shift drum with the bearing on it like the picture above. Some RZ shift forks, and use my modded shift star/pro-shift kit. I see that Jeff from FAST mods the shift shafts. is this a good idea with my shift star/shift kit, or is it too much. I dont want to do too many mods and go backwards if you know what I mean. Thanks Phil

 

Jeff will tell you get either the shift pro kit (which is a bigger wheel and lighter spring) OR the rounded shift star, but not both.

Posted

I think Walter, Roost Fest. He was from Conn. He was a memmber her a few years back. He hasen't posted anything for some time now . He moved out to Arizona LUCKY BASTARD (atuo paint distribator) But he had Dave Moore build he's bike and used RZ350 shift forks. He shifts the bike just like a duneable override. His bike was on the front cover of sand sports magizine. He said it worked out very well for him.

Posted
I think Walter, Roost Fest. He was from Conn. He was a memmber her a few years back. He hasen't posted anything for some time now . He moved out to Arizona LUCKY BASTARD (atuo paint distribator) But he had Dave Moore build he's bike and used RZ350 shift forks. He shifts the bike just like a duneable override. His bike was on the front cover of sand sports magizine. He said it worked out very well for him.

 

Sorry, but if it's not an override, dunable or regular, it's not shifting like one....

 

It might upshift better with the clutch, he may be able to power shift it with no clutch, I promise no matter what kind of forks you have in there the tranny won't last long....

Posted
Sorry, but if it's not an override, dunable or regular, it's not shifting like one....

 

It might upshift better with the clutch, he may be able to power shift it with no clutch, I promise no matter what kind of forks you have in there the tranny won't last long....

I think Dave did a (race cut) on the tranny.

Posted
Sorry, but if it's not an override, dunable or regular, it's not shifting like one....

 

It might upshift better with the clutch, he may be able to power shift it with no clutch, I promise no matter what kind of forks you have in there the tranny won't last long....

 

Just to clarify, dajo, when you say it wont last long, I assume you mean wont last if clutchless shifted correct? If I understand the way the override works, it has to do with modifying the engagement lugs on the side of the gears correct? An override doesnt' make the tranny stronger, only allows it to live under clutchless shifting right. I mean if I were to use the RZ forks, put the shift drum on a bearing as above an use the modded shift star, the trans should be very reliable even under high horsepower right? Or, no? At this point, I plan to do the stock cylinder 4mil, but you never know, I might decide I want a CUB, or even a Cheetah down the line. I would assume I should still be OK to run the non override trans even at the higher horsepower, or will I be wasting my time? I understand I wont be able to bang gears as easily as the guy with the override, but then again I wont have to worry at all about backloading the trans and tearing it up either. Sorry if I am beating a dead horse. I just like to have all the info before I decide which way to go.

Posted

No...clutchless shifting won't wear it out any quicker than normal...

Backloading it above 8K RPM ( letting off the gas and not pulling the clutch) will wear the shift forks...not the gears...

 

Gear dogs are cut off, the ones left are angled, the shift drum gets the most work with cutting and welding the channels...

Posted

Ok, so the backloading will tear up the shift forks on the override trans. Got it. Now on the standard trans, I shouldn't have this problem right. The shift forks dont really play a role in holding it in gear in a standard trans right? Isn't it the way the dogs are shaped that holds the trans in gear under backload? (as well as normal load too) Thanks.

Posted
Ok, so the backloading will tear up the shift forks on the override trans. Got it. Now on the standard trans, I shouldn't have this problem right. The shift forks dont really play a role in holding it in gear in a standard trans right? Isn't it the way the dogs are shaped that holds the trans in gear under backload? (as well as normal load too) Thanks.

No, you are fine with your OEM transmission. :thumbsup:

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

ok now im beating the dead horse. i just got the machine at fast. i figured id do a search.

basically, the only upside i can see to a DUNEABLE override is clutchless WFO upshifting. right?

now heres my question, you can ride these babys like an OEM tranny right? ive been on clutches for years and its hard to wrap my mind around ripping gears without a clutch, i can shift pretty quick too and still use my clutch (however its hard on the clutch) is an override and lockup totally unnessassary for anything less an alky? im thinking i wont need it. but getting rid of first gear? mabye.... the modded shift star fixes this

would stock tranny (neutral down) and a lockup clutch with a new pack in it be just fine for a 4mil ported cub thats really workin hard? im by no means destructive on engines, if they aint runnin right i figure out why instead of ride diagnostics....

sorry but the whole trans dilema has me fuckin confused.

Posted (edited)
ok now im beating the dead horse. i just got the machine at fast. i figured id do a search.

basically, the only upside i can see to a DUNEABLE override is clutchless WFO upshifting. right?

now heres my question, you can ride these babys like an OEM tranny right? ive been on clutches for years and its hard to wrap my mind around ripping gears without a clutch, i can shift pretty quick too and still use my clutch (however its hard on the clutch) is an override and lockup totally unnessassary for anything less an alky? im thinking i wont need it. but getting rid of first gear? mabye.... the modded shift star fixes this

would stock tranny (neutral down) and a lockup clutch with a new pack in it be just fine for a 4mil ported cub thats really workin hard? im by no means destructive on engines, if they aint runnin right i figure out why instead of ride diagnostics....

sorry but the whole trans dilema has me fuckin confused.

 

A duneable overide can be ridden like a OEM trans.. but.. If you backload them over 8k they will prematurely wear the shift forks. I like to call them "overides for beginners" because they can be backloaded where a standard overide can't.. 1 oops and you could be back on the trailor. Lockups are usually needed on 80+hp motors..alky or not. When you get up in the HP and you use a lock up it makes it hard to shift under power. So thats when people usually opt for a overides. I'm sure you could use 6 of the super HD springs to get the clutch to hold without the lockup.. but that clutch pull would be HARD!. Most people that use overides have drag racing pretty high on their list of riding types. On a 2-5 overide first gear isn't removed, its just not overiden which means you have to clutch 1st to 2nd and then you can do clutchless shifting.

 

I use a duneable 1-5 overide and I'll never go back!

Edited by Fouledout421
Posted

word i have just been schooled by you AND jeff haha goin with a 2-5 override and some caseporting :cool: i even learned that a modded shift star is not needed! wicked deal, fuck the clutch!

Posted
word i have just been schooled by you AND jeff haha goin with a 2-5 override and some caseporting :cool: i even learned that a modded shift star is not needed! wicked deal, fuck the clutch!

 

 

You wont regret it!!

Posted
I would say if youre if really not a hard dragger, then you really dont need the override. I dont have one on my cub, and I drag the shit out of it, dont seem too miss it at all. JMO

 

hey i just bought a 400 cub ported by trinty 35 mil pwks how much of a increase will i get over the stock motor with pipes , reeds,cool head,stator? if someone has one or ridden one please let me know wat i am in 4.

thanx

Posted
hey i just bought a 400 cub ported by trinty 35 mil pwks how much of a increase will i get over the stock motor with pipes , reeds,cool head,stator? if someone has one or ridden one please let me know wat i am in 4.

thanx

somebody's lost... lol and for the other's the dunables are sweet....!!!!

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Loading...

×
×
  • Create New...