4stroker Posted September 27, 2007 Report Share Posted September 27, 2007 i just had to replace the clutch actuator, rod, ball and adjuster on my bansh, because they all welded together on a ride after putting in a new clutch pack. i have adjusted the clutch by following the procedure outlined below by "wesw": remove teh cable off the arm by the cases, with teh clutch cover off and what not, have someone or yourself push the arm to wear the arrows line up on the case and the arm. then tighten the tension screw up till its tight with the arrows lined up. then lock the nut tight against the screw. then put the cable back on and adjust free play. when i put my cable back on the arm, i cant get any free play at the clutch lever end(on the bars) the adjuster on the lever is wound all the way in. when i line the arrows up on the case, how tight do i do up the adjuster? just until it touches the ball? do i have no freeplay in the cable because i am using FZR1000 fibres? (stock steels) or is it because i am using a motion pro "terminator" clutch cable, and/or it is routed wrong? or is it because i am a dumb ass? thanks, mark. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BenBB Posted September 27, 2007 Report Share Posted September 27, 2007 Are those fibers thicker or are there more of 'em than stock? If so you may need to just disregard the marker on the top case and adjust the phillips-headed bolt on the pressure plate so it takes up any slack between it and the lever, ball, and arm (which would mean the cable would hafta travel farther, which sounds unlikely I've never heard of having to do that for a different clutch). You don't want it superhuman tight there, just take out the slack so when the arm moves it immediately disengages the clutch (and if nobody's told ya don't pull in the clutch and coast down looooong hills in gear or it'll weld up again). Anyway if you keep tension on the little arm with one hand and run that phillips-headed bolt in and out you can feel it move the rod, assuming you've got the ball and rod in there and the arm itself isn't fucked up, normally you just slowly tighten or loosen that bolt until the arm pointer lines up with the case indicator, tighten the locknut and you're good to go. Is the clutch cable new or the old one? If it's new you could compare it to the old one and make sure it's the right length and travel, mighta got the wrong one (doubt it). Routing may be an issue but if the center of the cable moves freely with both ends disconnected, prolly not. Something else is up, you sure everything is kosher on the basket, plates, and pressure plate?? Good luck. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
4stroker Posted September 28, 2007 Author Report Share Posted September 28, 2007 thanks for your help man. im not sure if the plates are thicker, i forgot to measure them before installation. i have read that many on here have used them before though hence why i got them. there are the same amount of fibres as stock setup. im 90% certain that pulling in my clutch and revving the bike frequently while moving is what killed the old components, as i was doing that alot on a long, partial throttle ride. however before it welded up if you revved the bike in gear with the clutch in it would move forward a fair bit, so it obviously wasnt adjusted properly. i will play around it with is some more tonight, hopefully get this sorted. thanks again, mark. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
4stroker Posted September 28, 2007 Author Report Share Posted September 28, 2007 when the clutch is engaged (ie driving) do you want the adjuster done up so that there is no slack between the actuator, rod, ball and adjuster? because when it is driving, arent these all spinning? and if there all touching, wont they weld? i know that the only decent way to fix this is to buy a pancake bearing, but im trying to get this running for a race next weekend and a pancake wont get to me in time. thanks, mark Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RZBansheeMan Posted September 28, 2007 Report Share Posted September 28, 2007 (edited) I think when your coasting with the clutch in you will be idling, and if you are coasting at a good speed with your clutch pulled in, your inner clutch hub will be spinning faster that your clutch basket. When the clutch is pulled in there is pressure against the rod / ball. If you have stiffer springs there is more pressure yet, and with the inner hub spinning at a different speed than the outer clutch basket it will cause the ball to weld itself. Did you get your PV servo motor fixed yet ? Edited September 28, 2007 by RZBansheeMan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
4stroker Posted September 28, 2007 Author Report Share Posted September 28, 2007 i am not sure what the go is with the PV motor. i need to spend some time and test it, hopefully its just the control box, if so i am going to buy a zeeltronic programmable controller. if its the motor, i will have to scour the wreckers for an R1 exup motor. at the moment i have removed the motor and controller and locked the PVs in the open position. its alot of fun but a little uncontrollable. it will be fine though for the race i am doing next weekend. after that i will sort the pvs out properly did you know that if you use zeeltronics cdi and pv controller, you can use the standard banshee stator and flywheel? pretty cool huh! maybe i will build that 4mm Rz after all.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RZBansheeMan Posted September 28, 2007 Report Share Posted September 28, 2007 I did not know that you could use the Banshee stator & flywheel with the Zeeltronic, but I like the idea of it . The RZ stator I have came from Canada, it looks brand new, but I haven't been able to identify which yr it is, I paid maybe $ 130.00 for it shipped which was a steal, because to buy a new one here in the U.S. they are over $ 700.00 I can't wait to get my RZ together..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
4stroker Posted September 28, 2007 Author Report Share Posted September 28, 2007 yeah man hurry up! what does it need to run?> Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RZBansheeMan Posted September 28, 2007 Report Share Posted September 28, 2007 Atleast $ 1,500 for the crank , portwork and clutch reeds and intakes.......LOL Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BenBB Posted September 28, 2007 Report Share Posted September 28, 2007 when the clutch is engaged (ie driving) do you want the adjuster done up so that there is no slack between the actuator, rod, ball and adjuster? because when it is driving, arent these all spinning? and if there all touching, wont they weld? i know that the only decent way to fix this is to buy a pancake bearing, but im trying to get this running for a race next weekend and a pancake wont get to me in time. thanks, mark There needs to be slack BUT it'll be from your clutch cable; when all assembled and adjusted right, with the clutch released (i.e. let go of the lever), you should be able to move that arm about 1/4" away from the indicator pointer (towards the LH side, or opposite the direction the clutch cable pulls the arm). No play there means that the ball & rod ARE in contact all the time (bad); too much play there means that when you pull the clutch lever the clutch isn't fully, well, clutching (also bad as the plates may drag & wear faster). Still not sure why you can't get any slack though, I know the manual says measure at the tip of the lever but I prefer going by the arm & pointer. I'd make sure the clutch pack looks right and the pressure plate is aligned right...good luck man. did you know that if you use zeeltronics cdi and pv controller, you can use the standard banshee stator and flywheel? pretty cool huh! maybe i will build that 4mm Rz after all.... No way I didn't know that! I had to get a stator for my RZ from Electix in the UK and although it works ok I think something is up with the low-speed charging circuit as you hafta kick it like a gorilla to get it to fire. I don't need the lighting circuit at all and it would be a WHOLE lot cheaper/easier to find to run Banshee stator/flywheel...if my CDI goes out I'll be all over that zeeltronic, or sooner if I can afford it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
4stroker Posted September 30, 2007 Author Report Share Posted September 30, 2007 i have been emailing borut (zeeltronic) quite a bit lately as im buying the PV controller off him he is a really switched on guy and is great for replying to emails and what not. his prices are real reasonable too. UPDATE i fried my clutch again, i didnt have enough slack in the system. i am a dumb fuck. splitting the cases again tonight to fix it... also broke the clutch basket gettin it off... soooooooo i have ordered a hinson basket and tryin to find a pancake here in australia, need to get my act together though, my race is in 6 days.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pimp559 Posted October 2, 2007 Report Share Posted October 2, 2007 i have been emailing borut (zeeltronic) quite a bit lately as im buying the PV controller off him he is a really switched on guy and is great for replying to emails and what not. his prices are real reasonable too. UPDATE i fried my clutch again, i didnt have enough slack in the system. i am a dumb fuck. splitting the cases again tonight to fix it... also broke the clutch basket gettin it off... soooooooo i have ordered a hinson basket and tryin to find a pancake here in australia, need to get my act together though, my race is in 6 days.... With the thicker clutch plates you will most likely have to omit the clutch boss ring (made of rubber). Check in your manual for diagram. Some race clutch kits tell you this in the directions. If you just order a FZR clutch pack it won't have these instructions. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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