pimp559

I found that the breathertube housing was loose allowing oil to come through. I put some rtv glue on it, waiting for it to dry. :biggrin:

The water pump cover I'm talking about is the little one on the clutch side case where the impeler is. Could that seal be bad allowing oil to come out from under the cover?

I've gotta pool of oil under the shee that is coming from the water pump cover. What's the fix?

It's possible that the mushroomed end will wear a gap/ring around the inside of that shaft and cause the clutch to feel weird when moved in and out. If your not racing or going way out in the desert then I would run it til it quits or take it apart now before it ruins the inside of the shaft.

I think Minkia38 has one for me with all three shift forks. Thanks

Yep, it has a bad shift fork drum. You can see two spots on it that is worn, one pretty bad and the other not so bad. I'll try to get some pics up. Any body got a cheap shift drum?

I just got it apart and the same shift fork is fucked up again the same way the other one was I took out. I almost got the drum out but my little one woke up from her nap, so I haven't looked at it yet. By the look of the bad fork I begining to think that some was in there and maybe left out a thrust washer off that shaft. I'm gonna get the manual out and double check to make sure all the pieces are there.

DON'T USE PB BLASTER!!!!, it will wash all the grease off in no time and it will weld together then. The push rod should come out, if not there is a problem in there. Try pulling the push rod arm out of the case and then use the magnet to pull the rod.

Wow, great tip! I was just thinking it was gonna be hard to get a set of gaskets in by wednesday. And I actually just came and read this right before I was gonna take my new top end off. You gotta love these horizontal spit cases in this situation even better. Thanks again. I'll let you know what I find. btw, it has new sprockets with all teeth intack.

Like it is skipping a tooth.

I just inspected the shift drum from a top view. I didn't pull it all the way out when I had it apart. I didn't notice any worn places on it from what I could tell. I'm gonna tear it back down and look some more. I'm guessing I just didn't look good enough before and the drum is worn.

I tried all the clutch componets (clutch, hub, and basket) off my other bike that ran perfect and it still did it.

I have had a problem with my 92 slipping in second gear only. I thought it was a shift fork, so tore it down to find that it was worn so I replace it. I get it back together and it still intermently slipping in second gear only. I tried another clutch off my other bike that was not slipping and it still did the same thing. Anybody have these symptoms?

PM me a price on the shocks if they are from a Yfz.

I need a off/on switch and a key switch? Do you take paypal?

Not sure if they are T3's or T4's but definetly Toomeys. Think they will fit?

What cha got?

Damn, that's a good deal John but I figured out I just need a new pick-up for my stator. If I screw mine up soildering it back together I'll hit you up. Thanks

Do you know what year bike the electrical came from? Did the front bumper sell? PM me please

I need a stator that will fit a 91 and I also need on and off switch assy, and key switch /w key assy.

I have three bikes for sale: 1991 Banshee: Has Bill's pipes and silencers, Uni filters with Outerwears, boostbottle, Tors removal, Shock covers and gripper seat cover. Runs and looks exellent. $2200 or $2400 with front and rear sand tires. 2002 RM 250: Has Bill's pipe and silencer, VForce reed system, Hinson Clutch basket, Stealthy flywheel, Powervalve spacer, Works frame guards, Devol skid plate and some extras like two new top ends, plastics, and filter. Very nice for trails or Desert, extremely clean. $2200 1998 Cr125: Has FMF pipe and silencer (spark arrester), One Industries graphics and seat cover, Renthal bars and sprokets. Runs and looks exellent. $1200 I'm around the Fresno area. Can send pics.

I'm interested if you don't make a deal with fishwater.

With the thicker clutch plates you will most likely have to omit the clutch boss ring (made of rubber). Check in your manual for diagram. Some race clutch kits tell you this in the directions. If you just order a FZR clutch pack it won't have these instructions.

pics of the bars and shocks please.

What year bike are these parts off of? Any pics of the front shocks?