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Posted

Got the uber synchronizing tool from Jeff to try out from a buddy last night. Stuck it up to the left side, read 7, stuck it up to the right side, read 3. Kinda what I figured just from looking at them but it idled so I had left it for the weekend ride but I wanted to get it dialed in as good as possible. Started adjusting the screws on the top and nothin, didn't change the readings a bit on either side. Is there somethin I'm doin wrong here, I thought this was suppose to be fool-proof.

 

And wouldn't the idle have just as much affect on how much suction there is?

Posted

Stock carbs with Tors are hard to get perfect sometimes as all the mechanisms in the tors box dont seem consistent. If you have other carb tops or carbs call me. They work great!

Posted

I got all the same stuff from Jeff also, worked fine for me. The top screws adjusted out fine and so did the idle. I used the top screws and synchronized it quit a little bit over idle and then used the idle screws to sync. at low idle. I also had to use vise grips to hold the throttle at a higher RPM because it is hard to hold it by hand and adjust at the same time. You want the throttle as steady as possible.

Posted (edited)

Correct me if im wrong but i dont think you are suppose to use the idle screws to adjust the sync. They are called idle screws and they only adjust the idle. the more you screw it in ,the higher the idle is. I have a low idle because there's less chance of the throttle sticking.

 

With that said, this is how i synced my carbs. Perhaps i did it wrong because the directions were shitty. Oh wait, they didnt come with directions. Jeff, you might wanna put a little printed paper in the boxes to tell us newbies how to sync them up :)

 

Anyways, i ziped tied the throttle open a little(still at low rpms) then i put the tool on one side. Then the other. I adjust the lower side till it matched side that was high at first. I released the throttle from the zip tie reved it a bit. Then held the throttle with a zip tie to a different throttle position but still low rpms to check and see if it kept sync. It did. It felt better all around the rpm range but it could all be in my head. I also kept a big fan infront of the bike to cool her off. :biggrin:

 

Make sure you have some play in your cable as well. When you turn your handle bars, the throtle shoudlnt move(open/close) unless you press the thumb throttle.

Edited by RagunCajun
Posted
Correct me if im wrong but i dont think you are suppose to use the idle screws to adjust the sync. They are called idle screws and they only adjust the idle. the more you screw it in ,the higher the idle

 

You also use the tool to sync the Idle.

 

If your having problems syncing the idle make sure that there is slack in the throttle cable. Set you idle speed and then sync the idle. Then rev it up a little and find a way to keep the throttle position the same. Then adjust the cable tops so each carb pulls the same amount of air.

 

Now the Idles are synced and the cable lift is synced.

Posted
You also use the tool to sync the Idle.

 

If your having problems syncing the idle make sure that there is slack in the throttle cable. Set you idle speed and then sync the idle. Then rev it up a little and find a way to keep the throttle position the same. Then adjust the cable tops so each carb pulls the same amount of air.

 

Now the Idles are synced and the cable lift is synced.

 

 

That's what I thought, I would think you'd want it to be set the same at idle otherwise it wouldn't be synchronized.

Posted

Guys, its not that hard. Please call me if you need help.

First you set your idle with the sync tool and make sure they are the same (rpm that you like) from side to side.

2nd, You raise the rpm a bit so both carbs are for sure pulling up the slides a bit and adjust the cable pull on top of the carb caps so that the sync tool reads the same from side to side.

Double check everything and your done. wallah!

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