Dgrey Posted August 4, 2007 Author Report Share Posted August 4, 2007 (edited) Okay so I have all the parts now and im going to start the project tomorrow. I have in the garage 1. Noss head with 21 cc domes 2. 200 watt Ricky stator with adjustable timing plate (which im going to set at 0 because I already have a +3 degree timing key) 3. V force 3 reeds and reed spacers. 4. K&N filter PODS that the porting guy recommended for HIS specific port job Tomorrow im going to 1. drain coolant (I bought a "quick drain" piece and I have not looked at it so I don't know where it installs but it says it drains coolant quicker) its a plate with a screw 2. drain oil (its used anyways and needs to be drained) 3 take the stock milled head off and sell to my brother for 1/2 the price of a head mill in exchange for his stock head (just in case) whatever 4 install the 200 watt stator and plate and set to 0 becaue of the 3 degree timing key 5. remove the stock cylinder and take it in to get ported. 6. after port job re install ported cyliner (do I need new gaskets or something I have never removed one before!) 7. Install noss head with 21 cc domes 8. reinstall all parts with new A. noss head and 21cc domes B. port job. C. 200 W. Stator and timing plate set to 0. D. V force 3 reeds and spacers and E. K&N filter pods (which before I had a K&N single filter and air box lid removed and its for sale if anyone wants it. Does anyone have any more tips on how to make this easy or things to look for? I feel like is a LOT of work to be done to 1 bike in a 2 week span. I will for SURE need re jet the carbs. I think I may take it in to have it dyno tuned, but the wife is alreay mad enough that I have bought all this crap, but she says she wants me to beat all the dudes that I ride with. I can't really win here. Its okay through because I've done enough overtime in the past week to cover 3 people. Damn well I appreciate the help on this forum. Im sure after this install and the work im doing i'll be helping another victim of the mod fanatic! Edited August 4, 2007 by Dgrey Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RagunCajun Posted August 4, 2007 Report Share Posted August 4, 2007 (edited) Sry if it's been covered but in reguards to your last post. You will need a flywheel puller to get to your stator. It's behind the flywheel. I used an impact wrench to brake the nut loose w/o using any means of a lockup. You will also need to take your clutch cover off and put a nickel b/w the two big gears to tighten that flywheel nut down according to spec if you dont have a lock up tool. I did that, no biggie. Some say use an impact wrench but you are going to change the tranny oil anyways. I didnt want to risk screwing up the threads. This might be a good time to put 3 HD clutch springs in. That is up to your builder, he will know best. As for gaskets, you will need a set for the juggs. Always replace any gasket you come across. I would recommend changing the clutch cover gasket as well. cheap insurance. You dont need to bring it to a dyno. The builder SHOULD give you a nice starting point and you can go from there. He prob will start you out a little rich for the mains. No harm done. Save that dyno $$ and pay off some of these mods. As for doing all of this in 2 weeks......it took me longer than that. It was my first time and i only worked on weekends and a few hours after work till the daylight ran out. You probably will come into some tough problems but remember, nothing you run into is impossible. Just be patient. If any of this was said, ah well. Good luck man. I went through this in June haha. edit* most of this is covered in the Clymer manual. Edited August 4, 2007 by RagunCajun Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dgrey Posted August 4, 2007 Author Report Share Posted August 4, 2007 (edited) Sry if it's been covered but in reguards to your last post. You will need a flywheel puller to get to your stator. It's behind the flywheel. I used an impact wrench to brake the nut loose w/o using any means of a lockup. You will also need to take your clutch cover off and put a nickel b/w the two big gears to tighten that flywheel nut down according to spec if you dont have a lock up tool. I did that, no biggie. Some say use an impact wrench but you are going to change the tranny oil anyways. I didnt want to risk screwing up the threads. This might be a good time to put 3 HD clutch springs in. That is up to your builder, he will know best. As for gaskets, you will need a set for the juggs. Always replace any gasket you come across. I would recommend changing the clutch cover gasket as well. cheap insurance. You dont need to bring it to a dyno. The builder SHOULD give you a nice starting point and you can go from there. He prob will start you out a little rich for the mains. No harm done. Save that dyno $$ and pay off some of these mods. As for doing all of this in 2 weeks......it took me longer than that. It was my first time and i only worked on weekends and a few hours after work till the daylight ran out. You probably will come into some tough problems but remember, nothing you run into is impossible. Just be patient. If any of this was said, ah well. Good luck man. I went through this in June haha. edit* most of this is covered in the Clymer manual. Are you recommending that I get a stronger clutch? What is wrong with the stock one? Thanks for the tip about jugg gaskets and I'll do the clutch cover gasket as well and all the gaskets that I break the seal of. I had to buy a torque wrence for this project that has not even started yet. I hope its not that much of a pain in the ass. Alba Action (a moto store close to where I live) says that after bike is ported and the horse power that comes out to the clutch will not last. Is that something else I should buy? Its a 2005 and only has a MAX of 25 hours and only the small mods listed in my signature. Edited August 4, 2007 by Dgrey Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RagunCajun Posted August 4, 2007 Report Share Posted August 4, 2007 (edited) I can not say if your clutch will hold up. If i had to guess, i would say you current set up will work great. I however put 3 HD springs in just to make sure it wouldnt slip and to be a little more durable. It only takes like 5 min once you have the clutch cover off. The pull of the lever doesnt really get much harder either. You could prob put all 6 HD springs in and it wont be that hard to pull. I like a very light clutch pull so i only did 3. I have no idea which kinda of clutch disc i have. Probably stock. Dont forget to buy the little nic-nac things like o-ring safe grease to get the NOSS head on and some engine ice. If you can swing the extra $50 or so, get a tors removal kit if you dont already have one. It makes things so much more cleaner looking and get's rid of the shitty tors. Of yeah, it might be a good idea to get some spray carb cleaner($3 a can here). when i was rejetting my bike, i used a lot of carb clearner. I made sure no dirt got in my nice engine. If you do the TORS removal, youll need some for sure i would say. Cuz you will have to tap some holes in one side of each carb. Once it's all done, make sure you put the choke tube back. I didnt and it took about 3 weeks for someone to mention that to me on here. :biggrin: Edited August 4, 2007 by RagunCajun Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt96shee Posted August 4, 2007 Report Share Posted August 4, 2007 just curious, why are you using the reed spacers? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fastrthnu Posted August 4, 2007 Report Share Posted August 4, 2007 just curious, why are you using the reed spacers? throw the ricky stator in the trash and use a stock or another aftermarket brand. Its about a 3 in 5 chance its going to shit out on you. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dgrey Posted August 5, 2007 Author Report Share Posted August 5, 2007 just curious, why are you using the reed spacers? I heard that they helped with performance. Some say the help and some say they dont. I'll just put em on and hope for the best. I will not really be able to tell how much they did actually help because of all the other modifications im doing at the same time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dgrey Posted August 5, 2007 Author Report Share Posted August 5, 2007 throw the ricky stator in the trash and use a stock or another aftermarket brand. Its about a 3 in 5 chance its going to shit out on you. + I had one on my other bike for years and never had any problems. It worked great! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bansheeryder21 Posted August 5, 2007 Report Share Posted August 5, 2007 You do not need a stronger clutch. If you want, you can put 3 heavy duty clutch springs in . This will make the clutch grab better. Don't replace your clutch until your stock clutch is toast. I am still on my stock and look at my mods. Usually when someone on here refers to "race gas", it does not mean you have to run straight race gas. What they mean to say is that you will have to run "some" race gas. Depending on your compression and timing. ex: 50/50. I run 50/50. Half pump and half 110 octane. I know a lot of this is confusing or overwhelming, but once you do all this for the first time, it will be like a second nature after that. About your timing. When you get the adjustable timing plate, that will replace the timing key you have in there. Get rid of that thing. They can come loose during operation and mess things up. You will want to put your timing at +4. Line it up with the line(crack) on the case. It is the line where the case halves come together. Look close cause it is hard to see sometimes. It took me awhile before I new what everyone was talking about. If you have any other questions, I will try to explain it to you as best as possible without confusing you!!! Let me know! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bansheeryder21 Posted August 5, 2007 Report Share Posted August 5, 2007 + I had one on my other bike for years and never had any problems. It worked great! is that your golf cart? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dgrey Posted August 5, 2007 Author Report Share Posted August 5, 2007 You do not need a stronger clutch. If you want, you can put 3 heavy duty clutch springs in . This will make the clutch grab better. Don't replace your clutch until your stock clutch is toast. I am still on my stock and look at my mods. Usually when someone on here refers to "race gas", it does not mean you have to run straight race gas. What they mean to say is that you will have to run "some" race gas. Depending on your compression and timing. ex: 50/50. I run 50/50. Half pump and half 110 octane. I know a lot of this is confusing or overwhelming, but once you do all this for the first time, it will be like a second nature after that. About your timing. When you get the adjustable timing plate, that will replace the timing key you have in there. Get rid of that thing. They can come loose during operation and mess things up. You will want to put your timing at +4. Line it up with the line(crack) on the case. It is the line where the case halves come together. Look close cause it is hard to see sometimes. It took me awhile before I new what everyone was talking about. If you have any other questions, I will try to explain it to you as best as possible without confusing you!!! Let me know! Okay I just sent you a PM asking what type of gas you were running, but I see what type here so no need to respond to the pm! Umm so can I completely TAKE OUT the timink key that is in the shaft under the flywheel and just adjust timing by the plate? Are you saying that I do not need the 1/2 moon shaped piece in the shaft anymore? and in response to "is that your golf cart" no that is my parents golf cart. My banshee was over there on Christmas Day because that is what my wife got me for Christmas. The golf cart is actually for sale if you are interested its also street legal in 25 zones or less. The bought a rhino and dont care for the "slow" 2 wheel drive golf cart anymore. My brother and dad also have banshees. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bansheeryder21 Posted August 5, 2007 Report Share Posted August 5, 2007 Okay I just sent you a PM asking what type of gas you were running, but I see what type here so no need to respond to the pm! Umm so can I completely TAKE OUT the timink key that is in the shaft under the flywheel and just adjust timing by the plate? Are you saying that I do not need the 1/2 moon shaped piece in the shaft anymore? and in response to "is that your golf cart" no that is my parents golf cart. My banshee was over there on Christmas Day because that is what my wife got me for Christmas. The golf cart is actually for sale if you are interested its also street legal in 25 zones or less. The bought a rhino and dont care for the "slow" 2 wheel drive golf cart anymore. My brother and dad also have banshees. I'm not sure what you're talking about with the "1/2 moon shaped piece". I know you don't need a timing key if your using a adjustable timing plate. If that piece is your timing key, then yet take it out. All a timing key does is advance your timing +3. That's it. Take that thing out and with the adjustable timing plate you can go up to +/- 10 degrees. Ask Kevin just to make sure. He's knows everything! Give him a call today! I wish I could buy that golf cart. My wife wants one so bad but we can't afford shit right now! If they really want to get rid of it, they can just give to me! LOL! I'll pick it up this week! LOL! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt96shee Posted August 5, 2007 Report Share Posted August 5, 2007 Umm so can I completely TAKE OUT the timink key that is in the shaft under the flywheel and just adjust timing by the plate? Are you saying that I do not need the 1/2 moon shaped piece in the shaft anymore? you gotta have a key in there to reference where your flywheel is at in comparison to the crank....i guess you could eyeball it but why risk it. call jeff, or your dealer, to see if they have a standard key in stock. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dgrey Posted August 5, 2007 Author Report Share Posted August 5, 2007 I'm not sure what you're talking about with the "1/2 moon shaped piece". I know you don't need a timing key if your using a adjustable timing plate. If that piece is your timing key, then yet take it out. All a timing key does is advance your timing +3. That's it. Take that thing out and with the adjustable timing plate you can go up to +/- 10 degrees. Ask Kevin just to make sure. He's knows everything! Give him a call today! I wish I could buy that golf cart. My wife wants one so bad but we can't afford shit right now! If they really want to get rid of it, they can just give to me! LOL! I'll pick it up this week! LOL! I don't think my parents are willing to give up the golf cart for free. When they sell it they are going to pay off the rhyno that is their plan. About the timink key I was just wondering if the stock one looks like an aftermarket or if something is different about it that can not be seen with the naked eye. Reason being when I bought the bike the dude said it had a PLUS 3 DEGREE TIMING KEY. When I took off the fly wheel it looked EXACTLY like the STOCK timing key that I had right next to me that I bought from ALBA for like $1.75. I was just wondering if the aftermarket timing key looks like the stock one or if maybe the after market timing key goes in a different spot that I can not see. Damn I hate timink keys and the drama they bring. I think that the port man will have my jugs ready by next weekend (August 17th) so im stoked about that I think I may take it in to have it dyno tuned. I still have the TORS sh*t on my stock carbs, but its unplugged. I don't feel like paying 100 extra dollars for a TORS eleimination kit when it works fine as it is, ya know? Also I dont feel like testing the bike 100 times over to get the correct jetting. AND I kind of want to know how much horse power the beast has after all the mods. I need to be able to big my friends 2005 YFZ 450. He got pipes and a filter and that thing hauls a$$, but i DONT think he will be competition anymore after the port and what not. FINALLY, the glory will be mine. =) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RagunCajun Posted August 5, 2007 Report Share Posted August 5, 2007 (edited) the guy doing your port job etc will tell yo what kinda gas to run. I run reed spacers before it helps perforance with the port job i got according to the guy to did my portwork. He also answered ALL of my questions(thanx denny @ flotek). yfz450's are mosters out of the whole as are most 450's. You should be able to chase him own easy if you can drive well. Please dont do all of this just to be faster than the next guy. WHEN you lose a race(and you will sooner or later), you will feel like shit. I raced some 450's yesterday for the 1st time since my engine work. My driving was what decided the won, in which case, my missing shifts, shitty starts etc made for some bad races. Fun though. There's countless shee vs (insert bike here) threads. I dont wanna get into another one. You might wanna read up on shift kits etc to make ya bike shift easyer. The more hp a shee has, the harder it is to shift under a load. You'll see. Edited August 5, 2007 by RagunCajun Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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