T5 Jetting ?

[stovepipe]

I installed my used T5 pipes and repacked silencers with pink panther ,have FMF torque reeds on stock blocks , K&N air filter in stock air box with about 12 uni vents in box and lid. Ricky Stator CDI . jetting is 25 pilot,290 main and richened the needle one clip from stock ,mixture screw at one turn out. The shee seems to break up on the high rpms WOT you can hear it in the exhaust ,seems to pull ok but not to crisp on top and a little burbbly in the mid throttle openings and transition to WOT. I did a conventinal plug check at WOT (NOT CHOP ) the color looked good .Toomey suggests 280 mains with there needles and stock pilots I went 290 for a little extra cusion.Compression is at 115 psi. The shee run fine with the stock pipes. Runnig on pump Premium with Klotz R-50

 

What do ya think ????? This sucks !!

[stovepipe]

Forgot to mention located in Michigan at sea level

[dajogejr]

Put the needle back to the middle clip.

Adding reeds normally richens up the midrange a hair as is.

That will take care of your mid-range blubbery.

Just for the hell of it, close your spark plug gap to .020.

 

I'd bet it's an electrical issue...not jetting. Your jetting is dead on, if not a hair rich....for our parts of town.

 

I'd bet it's one of the following:

 

Old/fouled plugs

Bad Spark Plug boots on the end of the coil leads (known to go bad)

Too large of a gap for the pickup coil/flywheel.

 

Also...check all your wires, make sure they are not burned, cut...bare, etc.

 

It sounds electrical to me...

 

Have you done any work lately, or since the last time it ran right?

[locogato11283]

yea kinda sounds electrical. make sure your coil is grounded well. there are 2 tabs that hold it on. i take the paint off mine so that the coil grounds well. ive had this issue before. cleaned it up and bike cleaned out. spark plugs are cheap. throw some new ones in.

[csrmel]

i agree with everyone else. it aint the jets. although youre probably a tad rich on the main, you shouldnt actually be breaking up even with a 340 main in there.

 

so what was suggested and put the needle back to stock. check the plugs and electrical. you might even lean out the pilot to further reduce low rpm 4 stroking.

[stovepipe]

Put the needle back to the middle clip.

Adding reeds normally richens up the midrange a hair as is.

That will take care of your mid-range blubbery.

Just for the hell of it, close your spark plug gap to .020.

 

I'd bet it's an electrical issue...not jetting. Your jetting is dead on, if not a hair rich....for our parts of town.

 

I'd bet it's one of the following:

 

Old/fouled plugs

Bad Spark Plug boots on the end of the coil leads (known to go bad)

Too large of a gap for the pickup coil/flywheel.

 

Also...check all your wires, make sure they are not burned, cut...bare, etc.

 

It sounds electrical to me...

 

Have you done any work lately, or since the last time it ran right?

 

 

New info

 

It seems ok for about four or five runs from a dead stop speeds up to forth or fifth gear depending what field I use. After about the fifth run it seems to start breaking up on the high RPM .Seems as Engine gets warmer it starts to break up. If i let it idle for about a minute it will run good for about two runs then it starts to break up on the high rpm or if i just put around at low rpm and give it a break it will run ok for a couple of runs .This is something you can hear more than feel but it does not seem to pull as hard when breaking up.

 

I thought maybe its over heating being the coolant was drained and filled but the puke tanks stays right at the full mark and when the bike is running with the Rad cap off the the coolant is moving in tha radiator.But there was a couple of white marks on the pipes like there was some coolant puking out the overflow hoses onto the pipes . but were talking about as much as a mouth full of spit.

 

I have some new plugs I wanted to try them before this post but forgot to bring them with me yesterday.

 

 

When i removed the stock pipes this is what I did.

1.removed carbs and air box cleaned and installed 290 mains

2.removed all plastic, and bumpers

3.removed all electronics on rear of frame ( ignition coil was left on frame I taped around it)

4.painted frame with rattle cans

5.replaced front a-arm bushings

6.installed a barnett clutch and idler gear bushing

7.installed FMF torque reeds on stock blocks

 

There is more but not related to the running concern.

 

I pretty much went through the bike and replaced or repaired anything I found wrong with it.

[stovepipe]

I installed my used T5 pipes and repacked silencers with pink panther ,have FMF torque reeds on stock blocks , K&N air filter in stock air box with about 12 uni vents in box and lid. Ricky Stator CDI . jetting is 25 pilot,290 main and richened the needle one clip from stock ,mixture screw at one turn out. The shee seems to break up on the high rpms WOT you can hear it in the exhaust ,seems to pull ok but not to crisp on top and a little burbbly in the mid throttle openings and transition to WOT. I did a conventinal plug check at WOT (NOT CHOP ) the color looked good .Toomey suggests 280 mains with there needles and stock pilots I went 290 for a little extra cusion.Compression is at 115 psi. The shee run fine with the stock pipes. Runnig on pump Premium with Klotz R-50

 

What do ya think ????? This sucks !!

 

 

I got her fixed, 1. Found ther air filter not sealed to the air box at the bottom that must have given me a lean condition when the engine heated up, 2. found the coil terminal + and - did not fit the coil very tight.

 

She pulls hard and runs great , kinda hard to run a track with jumps if you hit a jump just right when the power band kicks in the power comes on hard and she stands straight up off the, jump takes some getting used to.

 

It runs pretty close to a 02 CR 250

 

Thanks for all the suggestions its always apreciated , but it all boiled down to starting with the basics