stovepipe

Anyone have a OE part number for the rear caliper slide boot FOR a 89 shee (the boot for the allen bolt slide pin )The book say's to replace caliper no service part available, I thought that I caught a post about being able to use the boots from a 450 Quad # 1UY-25917-51-00. Not sure if thats correct or not Thanks!!!

I got her fixed, 1. Found ther air filter not sealed to the air box at the bottom that must have given me a lean condition when the engine heated up, 2. found the coil terminal + and - did not fit the coil very tight. She pulls hard and runs great , kinda hard to run a track with jumps if you hit a jump just right when the power band kicks in the power comes on hard and she stands straight up off the, jump takes some getting used to. It runs pretty close to a 02 CR 250 Thanks for all the suggestions its always apreciated , but it all boiled down to starting with the basics

Interesting, I take it you have to remove the head to check the o-rings or can you air up the cylinder or cooling system to find the problem ??. PM me after you ride it with the new o-rings. Although I will be out of town next week. Good job man !! thanks for the updates keep me posted.

Interesting mine is doing about the same thing. Do you notice if you putt around slow and let the engine coolant cool down that it pulls good for about two runs and then it starts to miss again? I feel that mine may be overheating somewhat . If I ever figure mine out i will pm you. Do the same if you figure yours out first. I posted mine on 7-20-07 with no solid conclusions as of yet. I just parked it in the corner for the time being tired of screwing with it. The bike ran fine until i did the listed mods ( I should have left it stock ) The only mods to mine are T-5 pipes FMF tourqe reeds on stock block K&N in stock air box 290 mains needle one clip richer stock pilot comp 115-118

New info It seems ok for about four or five runs from a dead stop speeds up to forth or fifth gear depending what field I use. After about the fifth run it seems to start breaking up on the high RPM .Seems as Engine gets warmer it starts to break up. If i let it idle for about a minute it will run good for about two runs then it starts to break up on the high rpm or if i just put around at low rpm and give it a break it will run ok for a couple of runs .This is something you can hear more than feel but it does not seem to pull as hard when breaking up. I thought maybe its over heating being the coolant was drained and filled but the puke tanks stays right at the full mark and when the bike is running with the Rad cap off the the coolant is moving in tha radiator.But there was a couple of white marks on the pipes like there was some coolant puking out the overflow hoses onto the pipes . but were talking about as much as a mouth full of spit. I have some new plugs I wanted to try them before this post but forgot to bring them with me yesterday. When i removed the stock pipes this is what I did. 1.removed carbs and air box cleaned and installed 290 mains 2.removed all plastic, and bumpers 3.removed all electronics on rear of frame ( ignition coil was left on frame I taped around it) 4.painted frame with rattle cans 5.replaced front a-arm bushings 6.installed a barnett clutch and idler gear bushing 7.installed FMF torque reeds on stock blocks There is more but not related to the running concern. I pretty much went through the bike and replaced or repaired anything I found wrong with it.

Forgot to mention located in Michigan at sea level

I installed my used T5 pipes and repacked silencers with pink panther ,have FMF torque reeds on stock blocks , K&N air filter in stock air box with about 12 uni vents in box and lid. Ricky Stator CDI . jetting is 25 pilot,290 main and richened the needle one clip from stock ,mixture screw at one turn out. The shee seems to break up on the high rpms WOT you can hear it in the exhaust ,seems to pull ok but not to crisp on top and a little burbbly in the mid throttle openings and transition to WOT. I did a conventinal plug check at WOT (NOT CHOP ) the color looked good .Toomey suggests 280 mains with there needles and stock pilots I went 290 for a little extra cusion.Compression is at 115 psi. The shee run fine with the stock pipes. Runnig on pump Premium with Klotz R-50 What do ya think ????? This sucks !!

What type of low rpm running issues will lead me to install the 27.5 pilots ? (a bog or hesatation ? ). Even though Toomey says 280 mains are good I am starting with 290's . Should have it running sometime this week.

Yes they are the ones you add to your lid and the air box .You drill a one inch hole in the lid or the box and snap them into the drilled hole . The K&N takes place of the factory air filter.

Have a stock banshee with T5's with FMF power reeds on stock blocks , K&N air filter in stock air box with lid on and about 12 unifilters in the air box. I am at sea level. What Jetting would you recommend ???

Thanks,that sounds about right for a new gear. FAST sells a replacement bushing for $15.95 that is made of steel not bronze that will wear out again .Lots of guys on this sight have used the steel bushing with great results. Problem is FAST is closed till the middle of the month. Just like the post says need another source other than FAST for a idler gear steel bushing. Thanks for the help guys !!!!

I will give them a call I could not find the bushing on there web . Thanks

Jeff from fast is gone till the 12th . Need the steel replacement bushing for the Idler gear. Anyone have any other sources for this bushing ?

Would like The national part numbers for the rear axle bearings and seals.Anyone ever try getting rear axle bearings and seals from a bearing house ? Is there much of a savings or quility benifit .

Removed my stock clutch basket . When I hold the basket and grab the gear on the back of the basket I can move the basket between a 1/8 to 1/4 inch is this bad enough to replace the basket ? is some movement ok? When I look at the billet baskets on line there is no gear or cushions with the replacement baskets . Does my gear transfer over ? If so HOW

I dont recall it may. Most obvious at idle. The cover is off for clutch replacement is there some way to check it out to see if I need to install the cushions behind the basket. I was also told that the rattle at idle is normal characteristics of the banshee engine not sure if there is any truth to that statement or not. Does anyone have a clue what the purpose of the clutch cushions behind the basket are for no one has answered that one yet. ?????.

When do you need to install them ? And what is there real purpose of the cusihons ? My shee has a rattle when idleing and I heard that the cushions could be the cause is this true?

Need more info on what the purpose of the clutch cushions are that go BEHIND the basket I cant find much info on them. Can they be installed on the factory basket ? How difficult to install them ?

Thanks guys you just saved me a bunch of $$$$

Need rear shock bearings and seals for stock shock. Anyone have a good source other than the dealer at $ 35.00 a bearing for these or any other rubber grommet and bushing conversion.

Are the head pipe o-rings on the T-5's a square cut or a round o-ring ? Can you use the stock exahust o-ring ? I pulled the stock exhaust and the head pipe had a round o-ring.

Have you tried wood stove paint on your T-5's ? stovepaint.com thay have paint that handles 1200 f I just got a price for $150.00 to Ceramic coat the pipes and stingers in High luster silver .I just bought a used set of T-5's that were painted I planned on painting them but read alot of posts that the paint is not holding up.I have used BBQ paint on snowmobile exhaust it seemed to hold up ok. another company is qccoatings.com They told me $200.00 for pipes and stingers. The web sight will give you an idea what it looks like anyway even thogh they were more expensive.

I went on Dyno jets Web and they only offer neddles specific to FMF pipes , What part number needles should I get ??

Bought a set of used T 5 pipes and silencers. Do I need to get the Toomey or Dyno jet needles to make it run right. Anyone have a good set up without buying a $60.00 dollar jet kit ? My shee is stock with Weisco pro lites and boyseen two stage on stock blocks at sea level .

The 08 Banshee is on the cover of Dirt wheels magazine I just bought the mag on Sat . I have not had a chance to read the article on it yet.