kawiking Posted July 16, 2007 Report Posted July 16, 2007 i have a stock crank that i was going to hook my buddy up with... his hot rod f@#ked up... i was going to throw the stocker in for now so he could ride till he gets the money for a 4mill hot rod,porting and more... the stock crank i have ,one of the rod bearings is shot,the rod pretty sloppy,can u fix that, we have a shop in town that does atv repair work,been working to much to get down there.what do you all think,just trying to help a buddy out. thanks... rico Quote
375hp banshees Posted July 16, 2007 Report Posted July 16, 2007 yes it can be repaired, jankab just did one for me ( the one that bansheeracer9 screwed me on) he does good work!! Quote
badassbanshee479 Posted July 16, 2007 Report Posted July 16, 2007 yeah you can fix it, you just have to find a shop that has a press. They have to press it all apart, replace the bearings and reassemble it. Make sure they true and weld it for ya while there at it! Quote
sheefreak Posted July 16, 2007 Report Posted July 16, 2007 Not the most cost effective solution IMO. If one rod bearing has failed, how far along is the other one? If you have to replace both, it is gonna cost ya. At that point you might as well buy a new crank. Quote
dajogejr Posted July 16, 2007 Report Posted July 16, 2007 Not the most cost effective solution IMO. If one rod bearing has failed, how far along is the other one? If you have to replace both, it is gonna cost ya. At that point you might as well buy a new crank. I disagree... For about 150 bucks to 175...you can have new bearings on both sides (PTO and , and new rod bearings..and have it trued and welded. Or you can take a gamble on a stock crank used....not knowing what's done to it. Kawi.... If you want your stocker looked at and fixed...PM me. I worked with 375HP to get two cranks done for him, and I think he's pretty happy... Quote
400rednEX Posted July 17, 2007 Report Posted July 17, 2007 can the center main bearings be replaced on a stock crank? is that price including new rods? Quote
dajogejr Posted July 17, 2007 Report Posted July 17, 2007 can the center main bearings be replaced on a stock crank? is that price including new rods? No. Tell you what...ship me the crank. I'll get it looked at, and give you a price to make it right. You can say yes or no...and the worst case scenario is you're out shipping to me and from me... Quote
kawiking Posted July 19, 2007 Author Report Posted July 19, 2007 thanks for the info and help... i took a look at it and the crank has started to separate. im not going to risk fixing and putting it in my buddies motor,mine maybe but a friends no. he's decided to save up for a 4 mill crank(going to use stock cyln).... so im keeping my eye out for a 4 mill crank. is there a diff.. compared to the 4 mill in a cub ?? would he need a long rod or not ?? im trying to talk him in to sending cyln. and all to jeff and get it done right !!! Quote
dajogejr Posted July 19, 2007 Report Posted July 19, 2007 thanks for the info and help... i took a look at it and the crank has started to separate. im not going to risk fixing and putting it in my buddies motor,mine maybe but a friends no. he's decided to save up for a 4 mill crank(going to use stock cyln).... so im keeping my eye out for a 4 mill crank. is there a diff.. compared to the 4 mill in a cub ?? would he need a long rod or not ?? im trying to talk him in to sending cyln. and all to jeff and get it done right !!! Jeff has a long wait, and I'm not sure he's accepting any more work right now. that being said, well worth the wait if you can.... If you want to get rid of or sell that crank for cheap, let me know. If it's just starting to separate...I can get it fixed... Stock cranks once trued and welded are very, very tough...thick webs. A long rod and stroker crank are two different things...allow me to explain. A stroker crank has the rods moved outwards from the stock position, so a 4 mil would be 2mm off set (2mm on TDC, 2mm on BDC, =4mil total) A long rod crank has 5mil longer rods than stock...once you start to stroke the crank longer than stock...the rod has a tendancy to try and push the piston THROUGH the wall of the cylinder, rather than up and down the jug. The longer rod reflects less of an angle to the crank...less wear and tear and easier fluid motion for the stroker crank. Hope that made sense. Long rod only requires the use of a shortened pin/crown piston, aka 795 series pistons from Wiseco. A stroker crank requires a spacer plate OR the head/domes to bet recess cut so the piston can travel up into the head without smacking it. If you get a cut head/domes, you really should have the porting on the cylinder matched up to get the most out of the crank... Quote
blowit Posted July 20, 2007 Report Posted July 20, 2007 thanks for the info and help... i took a look at it and the crank has started to separate. im not going to risk fixing and putting it in my buddies motor,mine maybe but a friends no. he's decided to save up for a 4 mill crank(going to use stock cyln).... so im keeping my eye out for a 4 mill crank. is there a diff.. compared to the 4 mill in a cub ?? would he need a long rod or not ?? im trying to talk him in to sending cyln. and all to jeff and get it done right !!! I would point out that most machine shops will not be able to cost effectively build that crank or get the timing right. Singles are easy but a twin takes a bit more than a press and parts to do it. We had one here that the guy had an engine shop just "build it" and it was, seriously, like 20 degrees wrong!!! Yeah, it was a costly mistake for him. Brandon Quote
Justintoxicated Posted July 20, 2007 Report Posted July 20, 2007 I disagree...For about 150 bucks to 175...you can have new bearings on both sides (PTO and , and new rod bearings..and have it trued and welded. Or you can take a gamble on a stock crank used....not knowing what's done to it. Kawi.... If you want your stocker looked at and fixed...PM me. I worked with 375HP to get two cranks done for him, and I think he's pretty happy... Hah I was going to agree with the first guy, but since you can do it for himn that would be his best bet Shit man, when A place wanted to re-do the bearings on mine I was looking at over $300 with a true and weld...However I didn't take their advise that my bearings had "play in them" and I have run it for 4 more years without any problems. Lucky I did too cause I found some new bearings and they had the same amount of play in them lol. Quote
dajogejr Posted July 20, 2007 Report Posted July 20, 2007 I would point out that most machine shops will not be able to cost effectively build that crank or get the timing right. Singles are easy but a twin takes a bit more than a press and parts to do it. We had one here that the guy had an engine shop just "build it" and it was, seriously, like 20 degrees wrong!!! Yeah, it was a costly mistake for him. Brandon That guy should be fired...you can see with your eye 20 degrees. My guy will gaurantee it within .004 of true.... Send me the crank...if you want to save some money. If it's junk...you wasted money on shipping to and from me... Quote
kawiking Posted July 20, 2007 Author Report Posted July 20, 2007 dajogejr...... i ment to ask you if youd like this crank. i had my oldone that separated but i threw it away because were the key goes was all messed up.i was going to junk this one to but you are more than welcome to it. pm me a address and ill send it out when i get a chance. i also have 4 mill cut domes that i got from a friend with a cool head. i was going to give them to my buddy if when he gets a crank... so am i just looking for a 4 mill or 4 mill long rod ?? Quote
dajogejr Posted July 20, 2007 Report Posted July 20, 2007 I'll PM you my address...and I'll reimburse you for shipping, the very least I can do... I'm confused as far as what you're asking me on the crank, are you asking what I would buy if I were you, or what to buy to match the domes you have?? I would buy a 4 mil long rod crank.... If you're asking what crank to get for those domes...you'd get a 4 mil crank on a stock stroke cylinder...if they are stroker domes, they're designed to push the pistons slightly into the head.... However, port timings would be messed up. If you run the std. length rod, you need std. banshee pistons. If you run a long rod 115mm rod vs. stock 110, you run either a 795 series stroker piston or a blaster piston matching the bore you have... Does this answer your question??? Quote
kawiking Posted July 21, 2007 Author Report Posted July 21, 2007 thanks ... im not the 1 buying it,i have std hot rod ,stock cyln, drag ported... just ordered some 17 domes.my buddy is looking 4 the 4 mill crank. thought about putting my 34pjs on alky... Quote
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.