hotrodbanshee Posted June 26, 2007 Report Share Posted June 26, 2007 I am running a F.A.S.T clutch kit fibers and plates a hinson clutch basket and using pro honda 85w trans oil. When the motor is cold and I put it in gear it moves forward and kills the motor while the clutch lever is pulled in. Also when the engine is cold and the motor off I can put it in 1st gear and pull in the clutch and push it forward it turns the engine over. It does get better when the engine is hot. I have the clutch ajusted correctly. I went ahead and pulled the clutch cover off and the only thing I see is when I pull the clutch in the plates and fibers stay stuck together from the oil. My friends four strokes never have this problem. Should I change to a different trans oil? Anybody else ever have this problem? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fastbanshee8 Posted June 26, 2007 Report Share Posted June 26, 2007 The same thing is happening to mine, with the FAST clutch in it. It works fine everywhere else, so I just put it in neutral to start it, and I don't worry about it sticking when cold. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kojack Posted June 26, 2007 Report Share Posted June 26, 2007 mine does the same thing until its warmed up. I replaced the baskett both inner and outer and it still did it. It seems like until oil is run through the clutch plates it does this quite a bit. I just pull in the clutch and tap the gass and it breaks free for me. Let me know if you get it 100 percent dialed in and what it took to fix it. You know on my aftermarket clutch all the steels are perfectly round. In a tusk kit or stock clutch the steels are not round and i heard that the offsize helps the clutch break free easier. If its driving you crazy you might try the steels that arent round. Good luck erik Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fastbanshee8 Posted June 26, 2007 Report Share Posted June 26, 2007 Hell, I even put a pancake bearing in mine, and it still does it. I'm not worried about it, until the clutch won't disengage at all. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hotrodbanshee Posted June 26, 2007 Author Report Share Posted June 26, 2007 I had a tusk before and I think I still have the steel plates. I may have to give them a try. If I remeber correctly the tusk plates have a bunch of small indentions. What is the reason for the plates to have these? The FAST steel plates are smooth. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kojack Posted June 26, 2007 Report Share Posted June 26, 2007 from what i understand, which isnt much those small indentions are supposed to be offset from each other. The weight of the indentions being offset is supposed to help break free the clutch plates from each other. I have my tusk steels laying there to. Let me know if you do it and it helps. -erik Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kojack Posted June 26, 2007 Report Share Posted June 26, 2007 one more thing on those steel plates you may want to reference your banshee manual for how their supposed to be installed. In my Clymer manual it shows how their supposed to be offset. Unless you know how their supposed to be installed. Erik Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hotrodbanshee Posted June 27, 2007 Author Report Share Posted June 27, 2007 Ya'll think the tusk steel plates with all the small little half holes will grab as good as the smooth FAST plates? I hate to swap them and the clutch slips some. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bansh-eman Posted June 27, 2007 Report Share Posted June 27, 2007 your steels wont make as much of a differance as good fibers will. you can use stock steel and rough them a little with some fine grit paper and it will be fine. the most important thing is that you have strong springs putting pressure all the way around your plates. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snopczynski Posted June 27, 2007 Report Share Posted June 27, 2007 The only real common problem that can cause this is broken clutch springs. Otherwise its normal with a bike that has formulated gear oil in it. My bike did it with a stock clutch and the o-rings removed with ebc springs, I had 85w maxima mtl in the trans. It still does it now with a cascade heavy duty clutch also. Its normal, the oil runs off the plates and the frictions and it grabs until the clutch pack soaks up some oil again. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hotrodbanshee Posted June 30, 2007 Author Report Share Posted June 30, 2007 I installed the tusk steel plates that are offset and made a difference. It does not move forward when shifting into 1st while engine is cold. They grab just as good as the FAST steel plates, but shift much smoother. from what i understand, which isnt much those small indentions are supposed to be offset from each other. The weight of the indentions being offset is supposed to help break free the clutch plates from each other. I have my tusk steels laying there to. Let me know if you do it and it helps. -erik Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snopczynski Posted June 30, 2007 Report Share Posted June 30, 2007 I installed the tusk steel plates that are offset and made a difference. It does not move forward when shifting into 1st while engine is cold. They grab just as good as the FAST steel plates, but shift much smoother. What oil do you use in it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TurboBanshee420 Posted June 30, 2007 Report Share Posted June 30, 2007 I had the same problem.... Here is how to fix it... The name of the game is... GET OIL INTO THOSE PLATES! #1) Get new springs #2) Get some 80w Bel-Ray Gear-Saver and run it about 1/2" higher than the line on your dip. That will get more oil into the plates and stop it from grabbing. That thick oil you have in there sux! I ran it in all my bikes until I started using Gear Saver.... I'll never go back!!! #3) make sure the lines on the arm and case match up without the clutch pulled in. If not, then adjust the pushrod.... Not the lever/cable adjuster! If it still grabs then take all your fibers out and grind (with a dremel tool cut-off wheel) a small 45* slot every 60* on the plate on both sides. Only grind through the material not into the metal underneath. angle the groove so it would be sucking oil into the plates while it's rotating.( the clutch spins CCW) the groove should be facing this way....... / on the front side. Don't make more than 6 grooves in each side though... and space them so they are even and stagger the grooves so the ones on the other side aren't matching the ones on the 1st side. ( I only recommend doing this if you are a novice engine builder. ) I did this to my old '95 CR125. It worked awesome. I never had a problem cold starting it again. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MILO Posted June 30, 2007 Report Share Posted June 30, 2007 how often do you ride your shee? the longer mine sits at a time, the worse the clutch is when it's cold. i've already had to start in neutral (of course) and then push it a little to get it going and pop it in gear or it would stall when put in gear. after a minute or two, it frees up and works fine the rest of the day. everything is together right and adjusted right also. i'm using a tusk kit with 80w gearsaver too. :shrug: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hotrodbanshee Posted June 30, 2007 Author Report Share Posted June 30, 2007 What oil do you use in it? 80/85w pro honda trans fluid in the red bottle. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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