RIPRuck Posted June 19, 2007 Report Posted June 19, 2007 This weekend my son and I took out the bikes for some trail riding. Everything was going good till my banshee just shut down while riding. Went to kick start it and the kicker was locked solid! I thought my gear box was fucked cause my son missed a gear a couple of times but thats not it, I can change the gears. What the hell could be locked up in there? I had to head out for business for the week and will not be able to tear it down till next weekend but wanted to know where I should start off looking for the problem. :shoothead: Quote
BigRed350x Posted June 19, 2007 Report Posted June 19, 2007 This weekend my son and I took out the bikes for some trail riding. Everything was going good till my banshee just shut down while riding. Went to kick start it and the kicker was locked solid! I thought my gear box was fucked cause my son missed a gear a couple of times but thats not it, I can change the gears. What the hell could be locked up in there? I had to head out for business for the week and will not be able to tear it down till next weekend but wanted to know where I should start off looking for the problem. :shoothead: Check main crank bearings. LOL I've had a few of those do that same thing. Can you kick it over if you pull in the clutch or not? Pull your clutch cover off and pull the clutch out and just start checking things. There's quite a few things that can happen in these engines that will lock them up solid. The transmission is usually a pretty solid area in stock-ish bikes. The top end / crank area is more likely to cause a solid siezure than your transmission. - Jared Quote
RIPRuck Posted June 19, 2007 Author Report Posted June 19, 2007 Jared, thanks.. The transmission seems fine as I can go from neutral moving thru the gears. I was guessing the bearing was shot or top end. I wanted to do the top end this summer anyways but looks like I'll be doing more than just that. If I did blow a bearing would it be a good idea to just get a aftermarket crank and rebuild both bottom and top? I only owned it for a few months and dont know if its the original. :: Quote
Wallrat Posted June 19, 2007 Report Posted June 19, 2007 Sounds like you seized it. Was the bike properly warmed up before it shut down? You might get lucky and just have to get new pistons, rings, and a bore. Or you might have some crank or bearing damage. If the crank is toast, then yeah, I'd recommend ditching the stocker. Quote
RIPRuck Posted June 19, 2007 Author Report Posted June 19, 2007 Sounds like you seized it. Was the bike properly warmed up before it shut down? You might get lucky and just have to get new pistons, rings, and a bore. Or you might have some crank or bearing damage. If the crank is toast, then yeah, I'd recommend ditching the stocker. Yes it was warmed up correctly before the last shut down. Im really hoping it is only the top end and will know for sure this weekend. I'll get some pics for everyone so I can get a better understanding of what needs to be done from you pro's. Quote
blowit Posted June 20, 2007 Report Posted June 20, 2007 Yes it was warmed up correctly before the last shut down. Im really hoping it is only the top end and will know for sure this weekend. I'll get some pics for everyone so I can get a better understanding of what needs to be done from you pro's. I would bet on a pricey repair on this one. Sounds like the crank made change or the pistons skirts broke off. Any idea if the condition or hours on the motor? If you can pull the clutch and roll it, you trans is likely not the problem. Hope for something like a shattered clutch basket or something but either way, you get to R&R something. I would peek in the oil fill hole for obvious problems and them remove the head and go from there. There is just no way to know if it is engine or PTO gear related. I would bet on engine though. Any takers? Brandon Quote
bbluebanshee Posted June 20, 2007 Report Posted June 20, 2007 I would also bet on top end, and or bottom end. Good luck with the repair!! Quote
. Posted June 20, 2007 Report Posted June 20, 2007 I'm gonna guess piston skirt piece holding the crank from moving. Pull your spark plugs and look for metal on them If its a stock head, loosen the bolts in reverse order from 10 to 1 or you'll chance warping the head. I never thought it could happen until I took mine to a machine shop and it wasnt flat anymore. Quote
RIPRuck Posted June 20, 2007 Author Report Posted June 20, 2007 I know I have something fucked in there I just hope my noss head/domes arent ruined! What do you guys reccomend for parts as far as crank(brand either stock size or what), bearings, piston kit? I was told its bored 30 over and am sure I will need to rebore so does that mean go to 40 over? Quote
hyperlite33 Posted June 20, 2007 Report Posted June 20, 2007 I know I have something fucked in there I just hope my noss head/domes arent ruined! I had the exact same thing happen to me a couple weeks ago at the dunes. As far as the domes ruined, this is what mine looked like when I pulled the top end off. http://www.bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=79988 I am guessing the crank came apart or the crank bearings as I can't get the crank to turn a full revolution with the pistons off. If you had pieces flying around in there, it's a good bet 1 or more of the domes is toast. Good luck!!! Quote
RIPRuck Posted June 30, 2007 Author Report Posted June 30, 2007 Update** Finally took it apart and what a mess! Looking close at the minced piston you can see something that looks like brass/copper shavings stuck into it and the same color dust all over the place. After seeing that I figured it was a bearing. Once I pulled the cylinders off I notice its the lower rod bearing on the crank. The cylinder looks pretty good and the next size bore should take care of the little small nicks. I'm sending out the cylinders to get bored, ported and honed but what should I do for the crank? Just go with a hot-rods welded crank or should I be thinking about getting a 4mill stroker since im already needing a crank? WHAT A MESS!!! :verymad: Here's some pics showing the damage.. Quote
96_banshee_96 Posted June 30, 2007 Report Posted June 30, 2007 (edited) Man that looks like shit... The 87 that I just rebuilt did the EXACT same thing even in the same cylinder. I got the crank out and there was no lower rod bearing left it was like the bearing blew up or some shit lol. Might as well go with a 4mill and get some port work done. Edited June 30, 2007 by 96_banshee_96 Quote
. Posted June 30, 2007 Report Posted June 30, 2007 hell man, that dont look so bad, a little sanding, some jb weld and some wd-40 and you should be good to go :ermm: It all depends, you are getting the portwork done so nows the time to decide if you want the stroker or not. What kind of area do you ride? I've talked to a few people and they just say that the stroker is just to much in the woods. I ride a lot of pretty open trails, but also a lot of technical stuff that I think that extra power is just gonna hurt me. If you are going to be riding mostly all open areas and some tight stuff thats not gonna put your life on the line or your banshee falling into a ravine never to be seen again, then I'd say go for the stroker. I've had to decide to stay with a stock crank over a stroker. It was a hard decision, but I think its the right thing for the areas I ride. Quote
RIPRuck Posted July 1, 2007 Author Report Posted July 1, 2007 Yeah I ride mostly woods, trails with the occasional open area runs. I think I'll stay with the stock stroke and see what a good port job will do. With a fresh top and bottom end along with a aggressive trail port will def wake it up. The guy doing the port job recommends going down to 20cc domes instead of the 21's im running now and also lightening the flywheel. 94 octane is the highest I can get here so he's saying it should be fine. Quote
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